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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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240 fuel tank removalViews : 5387 Replies : 10Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 25th, 2007, 12:43 | #1 |
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240 fuel tank removal
Hello all, has anyone ever removed a fuel tank from a 240? Mine has started to leak around the seam weld and so needs replacing. I`m having trouble working out how to detach the inlet neck from the filler. It looks as if it is attached with a jubille type clip but access to that is nearly impossible as its between the top of the tank and the bottom of the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Simon |
Nov 25th, 2007, 16:27 | #2 |
Paul Clifton
Last Online: Jul 18th, 2023 15:50
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Location: Wisbech
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Tank
Leave filler on and remove with tank. You will ned to disconnect any other hoses etc from inside the car first.
Paul.
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Nov 25th, 2007, 16:46 | #3 |
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Simon ,
From what you discribe you have the later filler neck , if you do not see a rubber hose joining the tank to the filler neck but have a metal pipe with a ribbed section then this a much more difficult repair . The clamp you see below as a 10 mm bolt , you will need a universal socket to remove it . Mister T |
Nov 25th, 2007, 22:15 | #4 |
Member
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fuel tank
Thanks for the reply ,,,,, I think you are right and it is the later version. The prob is how i gain access to that 10mm bolt or is it best as the other reply suggests to remove it all in one and then undo it?
Simon |
Nov 25th, 2007, 22:35 | #5 |
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Take it out as one piece - I've removed a few this way.
Mike
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Nov 26th, 2007, 08:10 | #6 |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Today 08:50
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Location: Boncath
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Do it in one piece, but watch the section of breather pipe where it elbows into the main pipe. It is easy to catch it on something and bend or crush it.
Also of course be very very careful removing the two hoses from the top of the sender unit. The metal pipes are typically pretty rusty and fragile. Pour boiling water over the ends after removing the clips, then gently pinch the sides of the rubber with pliars before trying to twist it off. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Clifford Pope For This Useful Post: |
Nov 26th, 2007, 08:31 | #7 |
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thank you
Thanks a lot you guys.
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Nov 26th, 2007, 13:20 | #8 |
VOC Member 3801
Last Online: Today 20:20
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Location: Castle Douglas
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240 tank removal
By coincidence I am also trying to remove tank from my 240 (late model '93) today
A right pig of a job, but made easier by following Clifford Pope's suggestion on the pipes. Not sure about getting filler pipe off in one go though. Just rang NorthWest Radiators, 240 tanks no longer available. Will let you know how I get on !! Regards, Richard VOC 3801 |
Nov 26th, 2007, 19:42 | #9 |
Not an expert but ...
Last Online: Today 08:50
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Keep jiggling it - it will go! But watch the vent pipe as I said.
I did a very satisfactory repair some years ago. It was leaking at the seam as yours. Having got the tank out, I cleaned up the leaking area and the whole of the seam, and then used rusteating jelly to get it really clean I soldered up the pinhole that was apparent after I had got the rust off. To make doubly sure I painted bodyfiller type resin all round the entire seam area, to seal it, both from leakage and muck getting into the crack in the seam. If you can't get a new tank it might be worth a try. I did it because I couldn't afford to wait. |
Nov 28th, 2007, 19:39 | #10 |
VOC Member 3801
Last Online: Today 20:20
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240 fuel tank removal
Well, got the tank back in yesterday, definately a bit of a job what with leaving the filler pipe on. Thanks to Mike Brace, ( who I rang to double check), who kindly confirmed that it was possible, " but just take care not to bend the breather nipple on the inlet pipe."
Never a truer word spoken, for anyone thinking of removing / refitting the tank, be warned, it is definately a two person job to get it back in without damage, and probably to remove it ! Quite amazed by the amount of surface rust patches on the outside of the tank, mines a late one ('93) so I expect older ones to be worse. Cleaned it all off and repaired small pin prick hole with epoxy resin, then coated it all with bitumin paint. A tip: to drain the tank, they won't empty by tipping them up, (rollover safety valve fitted ?) but a short length of plastic tube onto the smaller of the two pipes allowed me to syphon most out into a proper fuel can, without the need to struggle with taking out the pump and gauge sensor etc on the top of the tank. Best to steer clear of touching that if at all possible ! Regards, Richard VOC 3801 |
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