2.4D (2005 on) Broken swirl arm

[5cilinder]

i was wondering what people experience with an broken swirl arm engine noise wise
Does the engine idle more louder like you have an "exhaust leak"?
Or can you induce that sound when manually move the swirlvalve when idling?

[kenny37]

Had my v70 d5 myo6 for about a year now and most of the time its not connected , currently arm in glovebox and ive never noticed any difference either in noise or power and its sailed through the mot !!

[5cilinder]

I dont experience power problems either with the arm disconnected.
But the way this engine is idling noise wise is annoying.
If i close the swirlvalve by hand it gets a bit quiter but not enough to my taste
i also diconnected the inlet pipe from the inlet manifold , horrible noise
But it gets totally quit if i block it of by hand.
Either the swirlvalve axis is broken halfway So not all cillinders get blocked by 1 valve idling, or some inletvalve is damaged itself or some tappet or camrocker is broken.But no mechanical noise is contradicting
Point is that i hate working on this engine nothing is easily accesible , to check the parts involved the manifold needs to be removed , normally no problem ,but here the injectors need to be removed first
I was used to bmw engines and they are a lot easier to work on space logic wise

[Tapani]

Hi,
my v70d5 my06 was at dealer recall few years ago (fix of fuel injectors) after which I realized the swirl arm is popping out of the holder at engine end (false adjustment by dealer). First after fixing the arm with some mm flexibility in the end movement it started to last.
the funtion is to reduce idle NOx etc. at least bmw implemented similar flaps but with poor holder desing and some loose parts ended up into cylinders causing $$$.
br tapsa

[5cilinder]

The plastick arm is of bad quality
But in the cillinderhead the Swirlvalves cannot fall in the cillinder unlike the notorious BMW design even in the case the axe inside the head is broken
The Swirlvalves from volvo act like coins on a smaller tube they cannot fall in the "tube"

Btw i fixed the swirlarm on the engine side with a bolt with a flat head and small rings between the arm and connection and lubricated it
On the servomotor end i used the original ballclip but also lubricated and strengtened the outside all arround with a small metal hoseclamp round the outside of the hollow plastick where the metal ball is in so that the forces cannot tear up the plastick outside because the metal retaines the forces all arround now.
I had a tiny bit plastick removed on the shaft/ring connection so that the ring could fit.

[Jetmech]

I was checking the fluid levels yesterday prior to my wife going on a longish trip & found the arm disconnected from the engine (not broken). It must have only been off a few weeks as I check it frequently due to the common problem with it.
The car seemed to drive fine, no alerts. Although my wife claims it is difficult to start from cold. Could this be a related issue?

[5cilinder]

It shouldnt affect starting , if starting gets difficult when it gets cold it has a high chanche to be related to the cold
Test your glowplugs physicly or read the ECU for glowplug faults
Broken swirlarms generate normally engine management service notifications wich disappears after reconnecting the arm (triggering airmass parameter)

[Jetmech]

Thanks 5cilinder, i do have a glow plug fault, but only on one glow plug, I was ignoring it but I have just read an article that seems to suggest that they are powered all the time, so may be I will replace it.
The swirl arm keeps falling off so will have to be replaced, it has a socket at both ends, does this mean that I have the Volvo upgraded components?

[E4S60]

My 2.4D threw a warning triangle today, after inpection, the swirl arm is missing, ball at the actuator end, and cup at the engine end.

Does anyone know the part i need from Volvo?

[5cilinder]

Just give vehicle id and ask for the "swirlvalve arm modification kit "
The "upgraded part" consists of the same plastic arm but with a seperate metal nail and clip
Youre suppose to make a small hole on the plastic part on the engine side the "cup" where the platic ball broke off and drill a hole in the ball off the arm
Best way to do it is to the drill the hole with an flexible connection socket so that you can hold the drill in an angle
Then put the nail through both components and secure it with the clip (just remove a bit of the ball for enough room for the clip)
Use a magnet under the arm while working for if it falls
I also read here on this forum folks who heated the nail to melt it through

It costs arround 5 pounds or so