How to rebuild a turbo

[chomerly]

I guess i'll have to bow to your experience and knowledge on this one then guy's.

I was always under the impression that the turbine shaft was hardened steel and that a simple mark to line up the compressor wheel to the shaft to maintain existing balance would not have made a significant distance.

[960kg]

I think you have done well to attempt it and have succeded.

So long as it runs and sounds ok just enjoy your work...

[skyship007]

Clan is perfectly correct as the components in a turbo are under incredible stress from high temperatures and seriously high centrifugal or direct ultra high RPM gyroscopic precession forces if you go over some undulating ground with it in full use. If you scratch it, then that could be all it takes to start a fatigue crack.
The MTU chaps agreed with me that using a kit is good for selling a car that had a faulty turbo, but they seem to think that most kit serviced turbos fail within a year or two or are leaking oil enough to presuade you to change them. Scrap yard part or service exchange job in my opinion.
Interesting guide to read through though, so thanks for posting.

Originally Posted by Clan

It would i'm afraid ...

[Biotoxic]

In english, it should last for at least a year (if you don't have a heavy foot) Do not ever again make a mark on the shaft, its like you attach a small peace of duck tape to a RC chopper blades... it makes it wobble.

[skyship007]

Just to write a summary of why I don't think kit serviced turbo's last as long as a good recon one, which should be as long as a new unit IF the company concerned uses top quality Garret parts:
1/ You don't have the equipment to check if the unit is balanced correctly and just like an out of balance tyre, that causes a lot of additional wear.
2/ The parts used will be from China, the bearings will wear out and the seals will start leaking even if you are lucky with the balance. If you are not using a big right foot or doing a lot of higher speed driving the seals and bearings will last longer, assuming you don't do high revs when cold or shut down too quickly etc.
3/ The procedures involved in servicing, fitting and priming a turbo with oil for first start are not exactly error tollerant. One mistake and it will be game over.
The marine turbos I mentioned that were kit serviced, turn at less than half the max RPM of car ones (Except the 100+hp Yanmar one) and the kits are supplied by the turbo company, so you can use quality components.

[ccrocky]

Thanks for your info, today I had succeeded to remove the turbo from my S40. The next step will be replace a new turbo cartridge on it.

[Benji1985]

This is a great guide, thank you so much

[960kg]

Yes, i have always said that is guide is great for someone to attempt what the OP did.....

Well, now it is time for me to learn and take in what others have posted for
"How Toooo`s"

I know i am in the wrong section as i now after owning three X40`s i have a `97 V70 T5 but at least it is still a Volvo and after just doing the PCV it runs like a dream more responsive to the throttle and revs . cleaner and better.........

However it did not solve the smoking out the tailpipe after idling hot for a good 10 minutes so now i have to do the turbo oilseals.

But i am not going to do the rebuild like in this thread not only because of the posts about "balance" but i do have the turbo turned right up and want to keep the 16T and not upgrade to 18 or 19T or whatever.......

So i am fitting a new Melett Cartridge which is already new and balanced and dismantling from the engine just from the turbine housing with that large round clamp....

The 16T is an excellent quick spooling no lag turbo.....i don`t want 100mph + acceleration i am happy with what it gives lower down......

[chomerly]

Originally Posted by ccrocky

Thanks for your info, today I had succeeded to remove the turbo from my S40. The next step will be replace a new turbo cartridge on it.

It is by far the most easy option to completely repair your turbo.
In fact, i have thought about it myself since but i think i would like to up the turbo a from the current 14T variety.

Originally Posted by Benji1985

This is a great guide, thank you so much

Your welcome.

I didn't realise this thread had resurfaced.
Its good to see that it may at least help someone.

Originally Posted by skyship007

Just to write a summary of why I don't think kit serviced turbo's last as long as a good recon one, which should be as long as a new unit IF the company concerned uses top quality Garret parts:
1/ You don't have the equipment to check if the unit is balanced correctly and just like an out of balance tyre, that causes a lot of additional wear.
2/ The parts used will be from China, the bearings will wear out and the seals will start leaking even if you are lucky with the balance. If you are not using a big right foot or doing a lot of higher speed driving the seals and bearings will last longer, assuming you don't do high revs when cold or shut down too quickly etc.
3/ The procedures involved in servicing, fitting and priming a turbo with oil for first start are not exactly error tollerant. One mistake and it will be game over.
The marine turbos I mentioned that were kit serviced, turn at less than half the max RPM of car ones (Except the 100+hp Yanmar one) and the kits are supplied by the turbo company, so you can use quality components.

I get that there will be balancing issues but if you are replacing just the seals, it should be fine as the journal bearings carry the balance of the spindle.
But as for your comment about the parts being used coming from China, i have to say that you are wrong.

The rebuild kit i purchased came from America and were American made as per the stamps on some the parts.
I don't profess to know everything about what i do, or did, with regards to my car and its many parts, but what i do know is that it is sometimes worth trying to repair an issue than just buying new.
I don't want to criticise anyone who just buys new parts as we all buy them.
I just like to at least try and repair a problem first before going down that route.
And you get to understand your car a little more buy attempting to repair an issue.

I think the best thing to take from guides or repair videos, if they are available, is to use your own judgement and make your own decisions.
Generally, the only people who will read a guide or watch a repair video do so because they have already decided that they are going to attempt to repair a job themselves.
In the end, only you as the person doing the job is responsible for what you do to your own vehicle and as such, you have to be prepared to take what comes as a benefit or consequence.

Maybe the next time i do an how to guide i may put a massive warning label at the top telling those who are thinking about doing a repair or replacement to do so at there own risk and always seek advice, or assistance from a trained professional.

Originally Posted by 960kg

Yes, i have always said that is guide is great for someone to attempt what the OP did.....

Well, now it is time for me to learn and take in what others have posted for
"How Toooo`s"

I know i am in the wrong section as i now after owning three X40`s i have a `97 V70 T5 but at least it is still a Volvo and after just doing the PCV it runs like a dream more responsive to the throttle and revs . cleaner and better.........

However it did not solve the smoking out the tailpipe after idling hot for a good 10 minutes so now i have to do the turbo oilseals.

But i am not going to do the rebuild like in this thread not only because of the posts about "balance" but i do have the turbo turned right up and want to keep the 16T and not upgrade to 18 or 19T or whatever.......

So i am fitting a new Melett Cartridge which is already new and balanced and dismantling from the engine just from the turbine housing with that large round clamp....

The 16T is an excellent quick spooling no lag turbo.....i don`t want 100mph + acceleration i am happy with what it gives lower down......

I'd love to see the finished result of your T5 960.
I wouldn't mind a T5 myself but i'm unwilling to part with my T4 to do so.