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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Stripping the engine clean, and putting it back together.Views : 15695 Replies : 11Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 24th, 2011, 05:12 | #1 |
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Stripping the engine clean, and putting it back together.
So then, do you always wanted to see the engine from the inside, dismantle it or just wanted to see how it works?
Look no further, I made this for volvoforums.org.uk community so you know how it looks like. So again I am NOT a mechanic, I am NOT an electrician, I am NOT a certified plumber, I AM a computer technician and I CAN fix things. And English is my second language. P.S. I will apply for next available car mechanics courses, because I found this quite interesting. And to get some paper that approve that I can fix car engines(or something) I could apply for electrician as well, but I am not really into all those things so I will pass this one. To the point! Long story cut short, this is how I removed engine from Volvo S40 1.9 TD sport year 2003(first registered 2002) without any previous knowledge about the engines. But know I know a lot. 1. Bad, dirty engine, is about to be stripped off of all attached components, cleaned and put all together. ----- 2. Some oil leak from turbo oil return pipe, you can see that heat shield is covered in oil a bit. ----- 3. Removed EGR internal part. ----- 4. Inside the Inlet manifold ----- 5. Battery and air expansion tank removed from the chassis ----- 6. Just in case, if somebody needs to bleed the radiator, that black bleed screw is located here, but be advised, its made from hard plastic, and it was really tight. ----- 7. More engine parts removed. ----- 8. Removed all the wiring. ----- 9. That greenish thing just left from the oil filter is oil pressure sensor. ----- 10. random pictures, but in order. I didn't expected that one of the bolts would be oily, but that is normal. ----- Camshaft ----- Cylinder head ----- Engine block, full of soot, especially cylinder 2(counting from the flywheel side) ----- Rusty injector/s inside the injector ----- Cleaning processes. Cleaning carbon from valve rods more inspection and cleaning Then I received brake discs and other parts. Nice. ----- One of the best buy was a metallic brush for the drill. Helped me to get rust away faster. ----- Oil pump and stuff ----- Old pistons...... ----- My new brake disc and old one ----- Oil pump with some damage That's it for this morning, its 4 am and I am going to bed, rest of the pictures should be done by today's afternoon Last edited by Biotoxic; Feb 24th, 2011 at 05:22. |
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Feb 24th, 2011, 09:28 | #2 |
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What a thread!
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2003 V40 2.0T SPORT LUX |
Feb 24th, 2011, 09:48 | #3 |
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Bloody hell..... Nice project. Something I would love to do on my car too, but I don't have the guts to do so. I am now waiting to see how you sorted out the knocking sound from your engine as per the other thread.
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Feb 24th, 2011, 14:38 | #4 |
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thx, I will be half way at the end of this post. Still a lot of things has to come off.
Pictures that I missed in previous post. All 4 pistons, just after I removed them, they haven't been cleaned or anything No. 4 is ath the flywheel side, they are in order, as if you are looking at them from the front of the car to the engine bay. Brake disc comparison ----- Damaged oil pump gears and housing ----- More cleaning Before and after ------ Sump from the inside, already somewhat cleaned. ----- I cleaned engine bay with pressure washer, this is how it looked like the next morning... rusty... ------ This is how I tried to remove the engine and with the little support from fitness ball I did remove the engine I removed the engine by moving engine block up and down, side to side and pulling to timing belt side at the same time. After I removed it form the transmission, I just unplugged fitness ball air emmm.. plug so that air can escape and it will slowly deflate... genius idea(at that time) I could just used the car jack, it would have been easier and faster that way ----- This is starter or starter motor, this thing is heavy and is attached to gearbox housing, it spins the flywheel so you could get the engine going. ----- This is air con compressor, located between radiator and engine itself, just under the generator. I removed this, because air con doesn't work and there is no auxiliary equipment belt attached to it, when I opened it, I saw where the problem was. If you can notice, top piston is bent in some angle, it should be like that. this is piston emmm housing with 2 pistons damaged beyond repair and this makes them compress stuff 6 or 7 of these and I can build my own chaingun ----- Removing the engine. I couldn't remove the crankshaft pulley so I left that on with timing belt. Engine block was sent to nearby engineering the same day for a rebore and oversized pistons. Gearbox without engine Ok, this is half way trough my picture archives few more images and I will be putting engine back together |
Feb 24th, 2011, 17:10 | #5 |
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About one week later I finally got my engine block back, it was pressure cleaned and rebored
----- All the parts come in one cardboard box..... I was confused dot com ... Crankshaft ----- Since I haven't removed them before I was going blind from here, I've put old bearings on and matched all the wear and starches on other parts..... Bearings ----- Engine block upside down Install piston cooling jets at this stage, or regret your decision later on ----- oversized pistons with piston rings already installed cleaning piston rods removing old parts with custom made pliers ----- I changed crankshaft bearings and piston rod bearings. ----- Chain and gear for oil pump ----- making a gasket Just in case I will make a guide how to make them ----- Almost all parts put together. I had to remove flywheel to make it lighter, so I can lift it from the table and put it on the ground. That's not all... there will be more pictures tonight. It just takes a long time to upload them at the moment. At this stage I've done about 90% to get engine running again. I will post more pictures in x40 S1 Articles section as a Guides( I am thinking, there will be at least 3 more guides, maybe more ) I don't want to post the same pictures as a guides, so I left few pictures out. Later on I will calculate how much it had cost me, and what parts needed to be changed. It total it took me about one month and 2 weeks to get car running again, all that was done outside, so I had to skip few days due to rain. I am hopping that this will help someone else. Big thanks to: stevo48, Oilydad, andy_d, GMad, Hinckley, steveshaw, Jordie, 960kg, Baffler, Clan, migrator, gatos, littlehomer, v8 rick and others I have forgotten to mention, who has given me advice over last 2 months. |
Feb 24th, 2011, 18:58 | #6 |
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When are you coming to visit me in London. I can offer a lovely Volvo working holiday
Did you clean the injectors, and if yes, did you disassemble them or not. I have never heard of homemade gaskets by the way. Don't you risk possible leaks in the near future? |
Feb 24th, 2011, 19:09 | #7 |
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brilliant
you have gone to considerable trouble to photograph and display these pictures for all to see, very much appreciated.
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Feb 24th, 2011, 20:09 | #8 | |
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Quote:
I cleaned them from the outside, just be careful, there are 4 or 5 small holes where diesel is being sprayed inside the cylinder, video on youtube claimed that they can be damaged easily . You don't need to clean it internally as fuel filter should hold back any peace of dirt or debris. But I took the 3rd injector to a local garage for a injector test just to make sure that it is working and not clogged. I just disassembled the top part, nothing else. Those type of gaskets are cheap, easy to make(not if you are doing it for the first few times though ) And they are good, I am using it for egr valve, no leaks at all. Every household has materials for this Last edited by Biotoxic; Feb 24th, 2011 at 20:12. |
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Mar 7th, 2011, 11:33 | #9 |
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This is my first post so please be gentle. Very impressive thread and all done outside in this weather too! As a new member I am very impressed with this forum, very helpful. My car is a 03 V40tdi sport Seems a great car, although only driven it 100 miles home so far. Been preoccupied changing a gearbox in my old faithful Skoda diesel prior to selling it. I previously was always a Mercedes owner but of late the build quality is very poor. So giving Volvo's a chance. |
May 30th, 2011, 22:30 | #10 |
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Cost of repairs for volvo S40:
Turbocharger* 300£ OEM gasket for turbo return pipe(bought this before I find aut about rufe) 15.99£ :@ Rebored cylinders+oversized pistons+2 sets of bearings 630.60£ OEM Piston Cooling jets X4* (discount from Rufe) 106.72£ OEM Bolts and gaskets for sump tank (discount from Rufe) 41.74£ Used Oil pump from Renault Vivaro(they fit in volvos) 30.00£ Labour, removal of 9 studs, change of oil pump, sump gasket, drilling out the studs, new engine oil ..... 268.80£ 2 oil filters from halfords* ~22£ Rough estimate for all the tools that I bought(before that I didn't had any) ~180£ Engine oil since I bought this..... so called car... bought ~45 litres of engine oil so far( in last 10 months since I have this.. car, had a oil leak after rebuilding the engine, Didn't know that there should be a gasket oil was leaking from there) ~163£ <--- I don't believe this number myself, but I have all receipts.. Thermostat* 9.50£ Rear brake fluid pipe change 30.50£ Head gasket set from ebay~30 £ Ok and total cost so far is....:1828.85£ Cost of the car was... 1500£ You gain experience from bad decisions done in the past... Now I know what to look for when you Buy Volvo S40 Phase 2 1.9 TD sport Note: Parts marked with red star(*) are things that I have done myself.
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Useful threads and information Guide: How to change/adjust timing belt Guide: Fitting LED's This is how S40 1.9 TD engine components looks like Information regarding EGR, problems and solutions A.K.A. Hesitation, sluggishness etc. Last edited by Biotoxic; May 30th, 2011 at 22:35. |
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engine, fixing, overhauling, rebuild, stripping |
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