How much HP can i make with these mods....

[volvo B230ET]

I've been looking at a few camshafts, a H profile camshaft with 12mm lift and about 272 duration.

The other is a 12.9mm lift with 300 degrees but that seems over kill.

If i'm running with Millers 0w-20 oil, do you think i should be okay running a high lift cam with such low viscosity oil or will i need something thicker ?

[griston64]

Originally Posted by volvo B230ET

I've been looking at a few camshafts, a H profile camshaft with 12mm lift and about 272 duration.

The other is a 12.9mm lift with 300 degrees but that seems over kill.

If i'm running with Millers 0w-20 oil, do you think i should be okay running a high lift cam with such low viscosity oil or will i need something thicker ?

Is there any reason you are running 0W-20 instead of the manufacturer spec 10W-40 ?

[baggy798]

Avoid the IPD cam and the T25 cam that classicswede sells, both have multiple reports of lobe wear despite the correct running in procedure being followed. Chinese steel junk!!! The T25 is total crap anyway due to it being a dual pattern cam with smaller lift/duration on the exhaust side.

Stick with OEM or Swedish made cams from Enem or KG Trimning.💪
V15 Turbo
V16 Turbo
https://www.kgtrimning.org/tuning-sp...234/camshafts/

Having said that, especially with an auto you want a torquey cam that performs best under ~5500 rpm, so the T or M are the ticket. A T cam also performs well with a manual:

Originally Posted by smithy

I ran 267whp with a t35 hybrid turbo, 3" maf, me7 blue injectors, adjustable FPR, and a T cam. The torque was really good and I pulled a 13.9 quarter without launching too.

That's the nice thing about having a cam that makes torque down low, you don't have to launch it like a Honda at a zillion rpms to get moving!

[baggy798]

Originally Posted by volvo B230ET

I've been looking at a few camshafts, a H profile camshaft with 12mm lift and about 272 duration.

The other is a 12.9mm lift with 300 degrees but that seems over kill.

Cams like that are for 400+hp cars that are dead under 3.5k...

+ YouTube Video

[mcfe]

Originally Posted by volvo B230ET

Hello,

yeah, it still has the standard A camshaft ive been looking at the IPD cams and i think thats the way to go.

With regards to fueling it doesn't seem too bad, On kickdown from 4th to 3rd i will get 15.5psi of boost and AFR seems to stay at 10.4 with no Detonation but that is with -2.70 Degrees Ignition timing above 4000 RPM.

I've only seldom heard of people going down low on the 10s, in fact I know that below 11 you actually do risk detonation. And I am no tuner(yet) or have ever driven a turbo car.

In any case, what is up with that ignition advance? You are firing the spark 2 degrees after top dead center. At high RPM the flame front has less time to propagate, you are effectively wasting efficiency there and possibly transferring all that heat out the exhaust I think.

My research would tell me this is the perfect way to blow up an engine. In fact my research tells me you will either burn/drop a valve or melt the turbo. As the negative timing acts like anti lag pushing the explosion not in the combustion chamber but out in the exhaust manifold. And furthermore it is so rich, the EGT temps are very high possibly.

There was also no mention of your piston ring gaps.

In any case, porting really will help you here. Not just head ports, but also valve bowl area. Additionally, a few more valve angles may not be a bad idea.

[volvo B230ET]

Originally Posted by mcfe

I've only seldom heard of people going down low on the 10s, in fact I know that below 11 you actually do risk detonation. And I am no tuner(yet) or have ever driven a turbo car.

In any case, what is up with that ignition advance? You are firing the spark 2 degrees after top dead center. At high RPM the flame front has less time to propagate, you are effectively wasting efficiency there and possibly transferring all that heat out the exhaust I think.

So my timing is set at -2.79 degrees retarded from stock so that should be either 12.79 BTDC or 14.79 BTDC to assist against Detonation, i should of been a bit more clear on that, apologies.

With the new intercooler fitted i'm going to monitor the intake temps and adjust the boost accordingly until the intercooler can no longer keep the boost temps linear, I should see 34C at 17 PSI of boost at full throttle, but that is on paper.

Piston ring gaps..... they're the same as standard specs

Originally Posted by griston64

Is there any reason you are running 0W-20 instead of the manufacturer spec 10W-40 ?

We took a risk and put the engine together with very tight clearances so we can run with an oil with low viscosity hoping we can disperse the excessive heat well, so far after a thrashing the oil sits at 97C.

[mcfe]

Ah ok, those timings look normal.

[classicswede]

Originally Posted by volvo B230ET

I've been looking at a few camshafts, a H profile camshaft with 12mm lift and about 272 duration.

The other is a 12.9mm lift with 300 degrees but that seems over kill.

If i'm running with Millers 0w-20 oil, do you think i should be okay running a high lift cam with such low viscosity oil or will i need something thicker ?

The H cam has too much overlap and gives a very poor low end, you need a cam with a wider centre line angle. It is not really even a cam for big power builds either.

Oil wise i would honestly stick with 10w40

[mcfe]

Overlap is usually avoided on turbo cams. Too much overlap and you get reversion as well, which sounds very counterintuitive but it happens. Also, you get a small boost loss as during overlap you are pushing some of the mixture away from the combustion chamber and out into the exhaust.

On NA engines cams, overlap helps especially with proper intake and exhaust manifolds to take advantage of exhaust scavenging.

[baggy798]

Found the video that a guy posted with a Motronic build. Spec on it was a rebuilt B230ET, ported and polished 531 head with 38/46 valves, V16 cam, 3" exhaust, BSR chip, and 14 psi. Stock everything else.

+ YouTube Video

That is slower than my car with an M cam on a 13c at 13 psi.🤣
So we can conclude that just sticking a cam in won't make it any faster.

Found the dyno sheet he posted and as you can see it leans out up top. Like an idiot he kept driving it like that for a couple of months, and together with too tight a valve clearance (and/or them not being up to the job), the valves failed and totalled the engine.