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Information regarding EGR related problems and solutions.
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Information about EGR So then, you bought your car, a Volvo S40 1.9 turbo Diesel(or diesel in general) with Renault engine (or any other diesel car), or you already own this car. Once in a while you will need to check and clean EGR as a preventative maintenance, so that your car keeps runing for a years to come. (read the text bellow to get some knowledge about how EGR valve works) After reading this thread you should be able to diagnose and fix EGR related problems. Over the time and possibly due to some mechanical problems you might notice that car doesn't perform like it did some time ago. Your mpg are lower or higher than normal, it may not accelerate the same way it did a while ago, sluggishness, hesitation at traffic lights, can't rev engine past 4000rpms or car has no power bellow 3000rpms. There might be some problems with rough idling and failing to past the MOT test due to emissions.... The answer and possible solution/prevention to this problem is quite easy. Most of the times it's partly or completely blocked EGR that could be cause of the problem. Over time soot and oil accumulates in and around the inner part of EGR. If you don't keep your eye on this, you might even get Engine warning light in dashboard. My suggestion is that you check this EGR valve once every time you change your engine oil. Or if you are driving a lot then clean or inspect it every 10000-20000 miles(aprox) Amongst other possible things that can cause all mentioned above, cause of blocked EGR could be *blown turbo, turbo seal failure, crack in turbo itself, blow by(oil catch tank), air leaks around hoses, damaged intercooler... If one of these things mentioned above fails, engine oil will find it's way to the air intake manifold. If there is a damage to turbo/worn turbo seals, most likely oil will end up in Intercooler, then oil is forced up the intercooler and then ''travels'' to EGR and air intake manifold, from there its sticks to every metalic/aluminium surfaces that it touches. I even had soot inside cylinder itself, it was on cylinder heads and on the pistons. Even if there is no damage to any part mentioned above, oil/soot deposits still can build up. Most of the times the cause of that oil and soot in and around EGR AND INLET MANIFOLD is quite unexpected. It's economical driving.. yes it is! It might town driving, or it might be A or B roads. This particular engine needs to be looked after more than other engines. To keep problems from actualy happening(blocked EGR) I am giving you a lesson in driving. In a town or 30 mph zone drive in 3rd gear not 4th. If you are going faster than 40 mph, change to 4th gear. If you are doing faster than 55 mph you can change into 5th gear. This is because if you drive slower with higher gear, temperature in a cylinder decreases, this doesn't sufficiently burn diesel. Diesel mist combined with soot enters EGR valve and then goes back to intake manifold, it sticks on every possible metallic surface along the way. Over time it accumulates and it's blocking EGR valve from working properly. Valve might get stuck in closed position, half open or open position. Egr valve recirculates some of the exhaust gases back into intake manifold thus lowering emissions. Valve opens when engine is started from cold(to speed up the heating of the inlet manifold, so your engine heats up more faster and burns diesel more efficiently) it stays half open or open when you reach cruising speed, but valve closes on acceleration, so if your car struggles to pick up speed on full throttle or it is hesitating at low rpms, then I am 90% sure that EGR valve is stuck ether open or half open letting pressurised air out trough shortest possible way, wich is that opened(stucked in open position) EGR valve. The turbo compressor blades acts like hoover, it's sucking air out from intake manifold, suffocating engine from air and thats why engine looses power in low rpms and it feels like you are towing a tractor or peace of large timber. P.S. about that hoover(vacuum), example from childhood. I tried this, I know how it feels. Take an end of the hoover pipe, put it in your mouth but close your lips around the hose, switch on the hoover and let the air in trough your nose, then when the hoover is working and air is sucked away from your mouth and nostrils try to breathe.... it will be hard to do that. Once you do that, you will know how engine feels... :D NOTE: I have heard of some cases when car owners are blanking EGR valve. I won't recommend it. Although you might get some acceleration gain, you will end up paying for the consequences. If you have DPF, it will get blocked faster. Engine management light could come on and there could be other warning lights lit on the dashboard. So then, you actually read trough the whole text(probably), now you should know what is causing youre engine to loose power in low rpms.... NOTE 2: This is roughly the same for all diesel engines fited with EGR valves out there, peugot, citroen, bmw, MB, etc... Few pictures of blocked EGR valves from different diesel engines. http://home.comcast.net/~junk9989/pw...024x768%29.jpg from land rover http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...lean-egr-1.jpg 6 litre ford http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_GRmDOXOi2s...s1600/EGR1.jpg BMW E46 for volvo D5 http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showth...&highlight=egr this is what I talked about in my text above, blocked/clogged EGR valve. Coming up next: Guide how to remove EGR, how to clean it, and what to do after you have put all the things back together. Don't go anywhere, I will be back after the brake!
So then: Tools you will need! Flat head screwdriver. Hammer or rubber hammer. A peace of stick(idealy with 90 degree edges) http://www.bildites.lv/images/wwqkr1o1x8gbctpywod.jpg A carb cleaner, electric contact cleaner or something that loosens up a soot, but don't Use WD40, after that liquid evaporates, that area will be sticky. It will actualy help build up soot faster. Some gloves or kitchen towels(to keep your hands clean). Size 7, 10 and 12 spanner and/or socket. Size 40 torq Time: If you are doing this for the first time, it will take about 2-6 hours to remove parts, clean them, and put them back together, hardest part should be inner EGR removal(there is some EGR valves that are welded together, originaly it comes in two peaces inner and outer part). If you have removed that, then you have done half of the job. If you are doing this for the second time on the same car and if you know what to do, then it should take no more than 1 hour. Remove engine cover by undoing 3 torq type bolts http://www.bildites.lv/images/12ing2oehwhpft9kecc.jpg This picture shows you what you will need to remove in order to get to the EGR valve http://www.bildites.lv/images/jl5ld0t606d1dgj7wp9m.jpg Unclip this by using screwdriver http://www.bildites.lv/images/0ip53szi3wjclpq0a.jpg
disconnect cable from pressure sensor and uplug cable from holder http://www.bildites.lv/images/it13jv4uleduu87lcwfv.jpg use screw driver or size 7 socket to release the clamps from butterfly valve(air shut off valve) and Intercooler http://www.bildites.lv/images/h8c1nfn1uja5zvwpxx.jpg then remove the whole pipe
To get easier access to EGR valve you have to remove butterfly valve. Do this by undoing 3 bolts size 12 or 14 http://www.bildites.lv/images/gghbwsvhsqhwz5kbyz0.jpg (ignore number 3) then move it away from intake manifold and just pull off the vacuum hose http://www.bildites.lv/images/xzid2yl6q6kncu9a2lhj.jpg inspect and clean it as necessary. After you remove butterfly valve, you should be able to to see what is going on inside air intake manifold http://www.bildites.lv/images/f29vj0wm6osavp1ml3i.jpg this is good but http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l4...6/CIMG0438.jpg this is bad if it is full of soot then you have reached the hardest part, if you can see uneven metallic surface inside manifold(picture this is good), then inner EGR valve probably will come out with little or no resistance. Remove outer part of EGR valve(EGR should be in two peaces) http://www.bildites.lv/images/1q1jsn9leulyb9pcml1a.jpg Disconnect the cable http://www.bildites.lv/images/bsfu11ygrfi5u6besup.jpg then unscrew 3 bolts that holds outer EGR part. http://www.bildites.lv/images/i4l555i8ybhtdwoc8em9.jpg If that manifold is full with soot then you will need a hammer or rubber hammer, with peace of stick and some carb cleaner or similar substance to loosen up the soot( it acts like a rubber between two tight metal parts, impossible to move it with bare hands) Remove inner part of EGR valve by using some anti rust spray, Carb cleaner (or something like that) To remove it, use a peace of wooden stick and rubber hammer. Try to hit it with a little force, bit by bit clockwise and spray carb cleaner and then few degrees anticlockwise and spray carb cleaner again, do this until it feels loose. Do that until you are able to use both your hands and then just one hand. http://www.bildites.lv/images/lsgcdq672lyc543jythk.jpg If you EGR is ok, then it should come out fairly easy. See video
This is how clean inner EGR part should look like(at least it should look similar) http://www.bildites.lv/images/zculcbzjhdircp2g1w67.jpg Once you remove inner part, inspect and clean it. I used pieces of old bed linen, after that I used old toothbrush. After you have cleaned inner EGR make sure that it seals perfectly, you shouldn't be able to see large gaps, when you are pointing it against the lamp or other light source. When you have finished cleaning both EGR valves, clean EGR valve socket, make sure you clean all burned in oil/soot/gunk, then clean two gaps between EGR socket and air inlet manifold. http://www.bildites.lv/images/1pcmnyphuy22a2a5k9.jpg
Then when you are statisfied with results, clean air intake manifold as far as you can reach, but try not to push any large peaces of soot/oil deeper inside manifold. Double clean everything inside air intake manifold and EGR valve socket just in case if there is something left. Insert inner part of the EGR valve back in place, If there was an oil leak before you removed EGR then you can make your own gasket(link) it should stop oil leaking from EGR AND seal any air leaks(if there is any). Next steps are just putting things back together in reverse order. After you have finished and tightened all the bolts that you unscrewed, double check if you have connected all the electrical connections. Then double check it in reverse order! Do not put that plastic engine cover on just yet. After all that, start the engine and let it warm up untill it reaches operating temperature. Check for any leaks, then go for a test drive some where near your place, just in case if there is any problems you can sort it out near your house. Even better, bring all the tools with you. it will save you some time :) If every thing is ok so far, put in the second gear and floor it, if it feells slower than it used to be, then there is an air leak from air hose coming from intercooler-going to butterfly valve or connection between buterfly valve and air intake manifold, or around egr valve. If there is air leak, you should see some traces. Just tighten the clip/s to seal hose properly. Note: Sometimes, after cleaning EGR valve/intake manifold you could still get sluggishness/hasitation/slow acceleration. Following text should help you to ged rid of that. After you have successfuly test driven your car find a motorway. Fallowing text will help you to clean air intake manifold, piston and cylinder heads as well as DPF(Diesel Particulate Filter) Important: Before you do this, you should check oil level, coolant level, tyres, brakes. Read these threads to get the bigger picture. Text bellow might be confusing. starting from the post No 7 Italian tune up Best thing when to do this is on Sundays, or any other days when there is almost no traffic on the roads. Accelerate to the 4th gear. You should be doing about 50MPH at 2500 rpms in 4th gear. Accelerate to ~4000 rpms in 4th gear. Note: You will be over legal speed limit by a bit. (In UK it's 70 mph on motorways) Drive at ~4000 rpms for about 2 miles, then change to 5th gear and continue to drive normaly. When you return home do not stop the engine. Let the car idle for about 2-3 minutes. This will help engine to cool down normaly. Parts like Air intake manifold, pistons, cylinder head, exhaust manifold, turbo, DPF(if you have one) will be very very hot. If you switch of the engine right after you park your car oil could burn to the hot metalic parts of the turbo/turbo pipes. Over time those pipes could get block, or if that burnt oil sticks to the turbo bearings, it will make turbo shaft woblle a lot, thus damaging turbo seals/bearings over time. Letting car idle for 2-3 minutes helps avoid this problem. This is especialy important after you get a new turbocharger... After that test drive(A.K.A Italian tune up) leave your car to cool down. Next day you should notice that your car performs a bit better. This is due to high temperature that burned off all the soot and other junk that was inside inlet manifold, exhoust manifold, DPF and exhoust pipe. Check for any oil leaks, check oil and water level as well. To keep your diesel car runing for a long time, don't forget to check EGR valve(soot or oil that accumulates there) once every time you change your engine oil. Or if you are driving a lot then clean or inspect it every 10000-20000 miles(aprox) This is all that I know of diesel car EGR valves. Information that I posted here I found out from volvoforums members, diesel mechanic, interweb( :D ) and other forums related to: diesel egines, turbo chargers, street racers, youtube and then I just put all pieces together. Tags/key words.(just for a search filter) EGR, EGR valve, Exhoust Gas Recirculation, Diesel, Diesel Engine, Engine, Soot, Blow by, Intercooler, Inter cooler, Turbo, Turbo charger, Turbo Shaft, shaft, Blades, Compressor, pressurized air, Volvo, S40, V40, Sluggish, slow, bad accelleration, slow acceleration, hesitating, hesitation, oil, oil catch tank, no power, low power, Inlet manifold, Air inlet manifold, |
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What a fantastically informative post! We have had an intermittent failure to accelerate for over 12 months. We would put some Redex through and cross our fingers, but the fault always came back, just after restarting the car still warm. I cleared several grams of soot / sludge from its 'throat' and the EGR valve, and so far no more bouts of random engine hesitation. I couldn't remove the inner part of the EGR, but by overcoming the rivets retaining the outer electrical part, I was able to get enough access to clean and manually actuate the valve. THANK YOU!
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breezerabbit - Why quote all of the thread again in your post so you have twice as many pics to load, very annoying!!!!
Good thread Biotoxic:thumbs_up: |
Wow- Was looking for a 900 EGR write up but this answers all questions that I had!
Thanks for taking the time to do this, Great job! |
EGR problems
Biotoxic. Wow, what a great article this is. Followed the instructions to the letter and 6 hours later, running like a dream.Many thanks for all the tips and helpful info. You deserve a huge medal for posting this thread.
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Quite recently I found out the the problem with the acceleration could be caused by turbo boost valve on the bulkhead. Before you remove turbo/egr it would be a good idea to check that thing out first. It looks like this (marked red).
http://www.bildites.lv/images/jal8e5ziv4r7u2hapwb8.jpg |
is that the n75 valve? could it be cleaned? or is it best to replace it?
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during my golf tdi time, i heard of a lot of specialists bypassing the N75 and having very very good results
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I have succeeded in taking off my EGR and i am posting photos pre-cleaning.
After cleaning and assembly I took the car for a test ride, but was quite unresponsive - sluggish. When stepping down on gas pedal (2nd gear) it was like something moved and turbo started working normally. I did "Italian tune-up" and everything seems fine. In my case the two parts of EGR are "welded" together with metal rings inside mounting holes, so check for these, before you start trying to separate them (as i did). |
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Took mine apart and cleaned over the weekend, pre-cleaning pics attached. I reckon I got an egg-cup full of gunk out of the manifold, although the EGR valve itself wasn't too bad. Mine was impossible to separate, also.
I had the same experience as AAmbro, no turbo for a few minutes until suddenly it was back. It has stopped idling roughly, which was what I hoped for, but can't say I notice much other difference in the car, perhaps it's going a bit better below 1500 rpm though. |
EGR V50 2.0d
Hi good write up had same prob and it cost me £600.00 to get fixed by Volvo I will now remove the EGR and the air intake manifold and a good clean every 12000 miles or 1 year this is just a piece of mind and keep some money in my pocket THANKS
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Looks like I have a job on my list :)
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Great article with lots of nice pics.
If you want to avoid fouling up an EGR or Cat, there are two things that seem to help more than just using the correct gear. The first is to avoid cold starts, as the engine burns 2 to 3 times as much fuel when cold and it is during that warm up period that most of the Carbon gets deposited. Using a garage helps slightly, but the real good move is to pre heat the engine in winter. A 250W stick on sump heater cost about 70 pounds, plus perhaps another 30 pounds for the cable, plugs and timer. The cost of the electricity is about the same as the fuel you will save and it's nice to be able to get the heater working faster than normal. The second thing is to make sure you get a few hours of steady motorway driving in at least every month, as that will help burn most of the deposits off. My V40 1.9D's EGR has been cleaned once in 120,000 miles. |
Need help
Hi I am having some problems with my 2003 v40 diesel 115 bhp d4192t3 115,000miles.
I have a wooshing escaping air sound when changing gear almost like I have a dump valve and a hesitant boost (on off on off surging) around 2000 revs so it would almost appear I have a leak in the charge air hose's but have checked all of these and cant find any leaks there. Last year I cleaned the egr valve, New charge air hose from the turbo, oil change (Castrol edge part synth), diesel filter, KN Panel filter, Oil Filter & Cabin filter, Top strut mounts, Alternator and belt, New coolant, New brake fluid plus more and I still have things to do. Are the egr valve's meant to come apart as like others here mine didn't but should it to be cleaned properly how do you check the opperation? What should I use as a gasket for the egr valve apart from the metal one? The turbo boost valve is it also called N75 valve? Can it be checked/cleaned? The wastegate on my turbo is rusty? Pressure sensor can this be cleaned? could this be my problem? I know I have alot of questions I do need saving Im in Redhill Surrey if anyone close that could have a look or give me some good pointers Thanks in advance Tim |
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Some folks think it's a turbo fault, just the ECU/MAP adjusting the injection system settings, OR turbo boost rate to the new cleaner intake and EGR. The same odd behaviour happens when you change a MAF, CAT or real bad air filter element. I think it takes about 20 minutes to self adjust. After that you get slightly better MPG AND faster throttle response. Even more power if it was a real gunge job. One problem with some EGR's is that although a good engine might not foul the intake OR EGR (A bad turbo seal fouls the intake and bad rings, injectors or valve guide oil seals foul the EGR, as the intake is more oil than C and the EGR is much more C than oil ash) for 100K km plus, IF the wrong retaining screws have been used (Volvo only) and if they have used a very common cheap brass looking hex head bolt insted, say your prayers before trying to remove the EGR, because if one of those bolts shears due to corrosion, you will have a real long PITA job to get it out. That's why I'm not trying to remove my EGR until I get symptoms. I am getting the intake cleaned every 50K km though. Warning: Saturday rant follows, so don't read! Changing tack slightly, if your cylinders get some Carbon deposits, they will burn off fairly easily, BUT it takes a lot longer to burn an EGR or CAT clean of both Carbon and burnt oil ash (Zinc related oil additives are a very slight negative for the exhaust system). I've seen some real life test results on very badly fouled EGR's on truck diesels AND they take at least 10 hours at max continuous power to get real clean, down to just some very minor baked oil ash. It's an Expo curve, so only an hour or two makes a big difference to the EGR and CAT (Some cheap CAT's fail from corrosion in the longer term) if you can get the engine to max continuous power (4th gear only helps, but a very early Sunday morning motorway trip in good weather is more effective). There are 3 W letters important with diesel engines as follows: W for WOT (Wide Open Throttle) W for WTF do you use for oil & filters W for Why are you starting with your big boots on the pedals (30 second rule) AND a B for http://www.blackstone.com, as only a used oil analysis can give the best answer as to when to change the oil & filters for a particular block, detect early signs of an HG pin hole leak or the need to clean the injectors with a fuel additive (Might be never if you use good diesel fuel that has some Bio content). It will also warn you about bad types of oil (Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 5/40, which is a group 3 HC synthetic rated C3 by Acea, is one bad oil, as it doubled my wear rates, Oddly enough Castrol Magnetec 10/40 will give better results sometimes and even basic Mobil 10/40 will do better, so take pity on the poor DPF owners, whilst their exhaust system dumps fuel into their oil or runs up flame thrower fuel bills). |
Great pics, BUT there are a few differences from the Volvo Vadis program:
Firstly a special Volvo tool can be used to remove the EGR without splitting it in two. It is available from Volvo dealers or the main Online parts companies for around 60 quid, although the ones I checked had to order it from Scandy land first. Secondly, when using the special hook spanner, Vadis says to drip rust solvent into the flange to try and help it move. Thirdly, the torque settings for the retaining bolts are fairly low, so Vadis says to use Locktight on all the bolts, along with a new metal crush type gasket. I've just ordered the special Volvo EGR hook spanner and will post a pic here in about a weeks time. |
I own a 2003 V40 1.9d with a little over 220.000kms and I gave it a go this afternoon, and the EGR was so stuck, I ended up breaking it.
The wood and the rubber hammer werent doing much, nor was full cans of sprayed penetrating oil, so I tried a little harder! It did move a little but broke it in one corner... So now I know I have to get a new one but honestly Im stuck in how to get the bloody old EGR out, because now it doesnt move either way! http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a8/...ps098ce615.jpg |
Warning about this tuto
First of all please forgive my imperfect english.
I'm having acceleration problems with my volvo S40 (D115 2003, 257000km), the turbo releases massive air flux and the acceleration has become uneven, does like "go, stop, go, stop, go..." Turbo and durites are ok, so obviously the problem comes from the EGR valve. I Found this tutorial, well made, clear enough, this looked awesome. In fact, this tutorial can either be awesome or TERRIBLE depending on how lucky you are. I'm not lucky. Biotoxic, you suggest to take off the EGR valve in 2 pieces, first the outer part and then the inner part. The thing is, it's a FATAL ERROR. You shouldn't try to disconnect your EGR valve in 2 pieces, but instead pull the whole out. There are some specific clamps to do it, and I think you could even do this with the chain/key that is used for oil filters. Why that ? Simply because if your valve hasn't been worked out for years and like me more than 130 000km, the inner part will be completely stucked in the hose, impossible to take out or even make it turn a little, whatever massive tool or super carbcleaner you will use. And that's what's happening to me right now, and I can't find any professionnal willing to take the risk of helping me in that matter. So, everyone, DON'T SEPARATE YOUR EGR VALVE IN 2 PIECES, but take it whole out with a clamp or something to grab the outer part of the egr valve. (by turning it little by little) |
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My EGR is "one" unit, but still separable. Even separable versions MUSN'T be separated in 2 pieces before taking it out. Like I said, you have to turn the outer part of the EGR with a special tool, otherwise you're going to play with luck and pray that the inner part isn't too stuck.
And as a warning I suggest you take a look at my stuck EGR. |
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Lots of ham fisted ginger bears just use a pipe wrench, which splits the EGR. The good book then says it is supposed to be replaced if split, although for many diesels the dealers won't clean them. One hours labour to scrub one up to new standard is nearly the cost of a new valve (Might be more in some dealers). |
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Yes I'm going through hell with that D**N EGR... I still have one last thing to try to remove it, that is heating the "collecteur d'admission" (I don't know how it's called in english, well the big metal thing in which the EGR is stuck) with a kind of "hairdrier" (but more powerful, the tool that is used to remove plastic grounds) to try and make the soot melt from the inside, and then work the egr with my hammer and plate screwdriver... I'll tell you what in a couple of days...
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What does the tool look like you are talking about? Can't get the inner part out as well... afraid to break it.
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help
egr stuck solid on 1.9 v40 flange also braking any hints to remove?
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If it is stuck solid, then alternative would be getting a new(used) inlet manifold with a inner /outer EGR part, then you could remove it EGR housing and clean the inlet manifold( and/or smooth out the inlet ports for a slightly better air flow/performance). It will help with the air flow especially if you have a higher milage car due to soot/gunk build up at the inlet manifold/EGR. This would save you some time as well as it would be a straight part swap.
Sorry for the late reply due to not owning a volvo anymore... |
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When it causes a lag I will get it cleaned, although removing it will be a PITA as it still has the OEM bolts in it and they should have been changed last time it was cleaned over 100K ago by a Ford stealer. There is a potential for the mounting bolts to shear off, so it's a classic case of, "If it's not forked, don't try and fix it"! |
-----------UPDATE------------
Forget about the carb cleaner... get a brake cleaner and a toothbrush..... That's a lethal combo.... had to clean a slightly dirty bmw egr... 15. minutes later it looked like a brand new... best thing is... it evaporates.. ;) |
Here is the video in 4k https://youtu.be/gbQgz-DZWbg just change the video quality playback on YouTube(the gear icon beside full screen icon on the lower right side of the video)
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Oil leak behind the engine d40d
I am new to this so please bear with me.
I have just bought a volvo v40dse estate on a 2002 plate. There is a lot of oil behind the engine block just below what I assume is the air intake. It is the 1.9 turbo diesel Renault engine. I have been reading the post on egr valves. The large diameter pipe coming from the top of the intercooler is coated with wet oil and the hole above the egr valve where the throttle body joins is also gummed up with wet oil and carbon. The car goes along and starts fine except for a bit of hesitation at around 2000 rpm the car seems to slightly speed up and then hold back but if you floor it then it goes fine. Can anyone help me with where the oil is coming from and how it is getting into the intercooler and what I need to do to fix it. And if possible what gaskets If any I would need If I have to remove the inlet manifold. Thanks. |
What are the differences between the 2 parts EGR and the "Welded" One piece EGR?
thanks! |
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Volvo S40 2.0 Diesel EGR
Hi new to the forum today, need some help with egr on S40 2.0 diesel, seems very sluggish on pickup upto 2000 rpm, got manual for car saturday find it hard to believe where & how it tells you to remove the egr for this model.
Can someone shed some light on where the egr is on this model & confirm that it is fairly easy to get at ? After reading the manual i was left bit confused, having done egr on a previous car i had proved to be quite simple. |
Thanks +1
Excellent and thorough. Although I have to admit, I'm all for blanking and doing the necessary ECU adjustments along with a bit of tuning... But I do realise that for many, cleaning and keeping the car original is a valid and good option.
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egr problems
hi new to this forum but here goes I have a 2006 d5 v70 engine system service light came on so the codes read egr valve not working so got garage to replace both the valve and the position sensor car drives ok till you let it drop back down to tick over then goes in to limp home mode any ideas would be great!!!!!!!
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EGR valve removal after 225,000 miles (360,000 km)
My Volvo V40 1.9 Diesel 115 bhp, is drinking more fuel, accelerating less well and the engine is hesitating at around 2000 rpm. The car has a full service history, so what is the problem? Then I noticed this thing called an EGR valve, which Volvo neither service nor check.
Inspired by this excellent thread by Biotoxic I thought I would clean my EGR valve. All went well. The solenoid separated from the EGR valve. But the EGR valve was stuck fast in the inlet manifold. So, lots of penetrating fluid, a wooden stick and a rubber hammer were tried, with no reward. Then a cold chisel and steel hammer was tried. The EGR valve was bruised but survived unmoved. I realised that less brute force and more brain power was necessary. I researched the idea of heating the manifold and made a bespoke tool to use as a drift. I know nothing about the manifold's aluminium alloy, but realised that an oxyacetylene torch would not be good. I settled for a hot air gun (1800 Watt, 600 Centigrade). https://e3a657a2-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites..../HotAirGun.jpg My new tool was made from an old tyre lever and a M8 nut and bolt. https://e3a657a2-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....0/NewTool1.jpg https://e3a657a2-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....0/NewTool2.jpg https://e3a657a2-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....0/NewTool3.jpg An appropriate weight hammer was selected https://e3a657a2-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites....ClubHammer.jpg I applied the hot air to the manifold casting in the area of the EGR valve. After about 10 minutes the EGR area of the casting had reached 50 Centigrade. Then the new tool was engaged in the bolt holes of the EGR valve. A few light strikes with the hammer caused the first movement of the EGR valve. 10 minutes later it was out. It was oily, sooty and black. I tried to clean it with kerosene, acetone, carburetor cleaner and a toothbrush. None were that helpful. More reading suggested that a ultrasonic bath would clean this valve. I prepared a cleaning solution from detergent 5 g, sodium hydroxide 5 g and water 1.5 l. Three sessions in the bath left only a brown varnish on the valve. The valve was so clean it slid straight back into the manifold. |
s60 petrol T4 model
can you tell me if the above model has an EGR valve. My D4 has and I am thinking of switching to the T4 to avoid this problem . Have you any idea?
Cheers Ian |
Wow what a great post, I don’t have a problem at the moment but will be definitely coming back here if I do.
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