S40 V40: How to install cruise control

[GaryS40]

Hi all

Here is my guide to installing OEM cruise control into a petrol (non - GDi) phase 2 S40.

GDi and diesel vehicles require a software update from the dealer, but not the Volvo petrols.

There are apparently some additional wires to be installed on diesel variants too.

Firstly, I would like to thank Gatos, for supplying the whole kit, at a fantastic price, as usual.

The phase 2 cars come with the loom, pre-wired from the factory, with the connectors neatly wrapped up in PVC insulating tape, to keep them out of the way, until required.

This system is being fitted to a right hand drive vehicle, to avoid any confusion.

I have supplied photos of the switches, fitted to donor pedals, so they are easier to view and have indicated how to remove them, on the photos. As usual, fitting is the reverse of removal.

Before proceeding, check all the parts are there and undamaged.

You should have: See attached picture 16, for reference.
Cruise control module – fits in behind the stereo
Cruise control vacuum pump – fits in the engine bay, next to the fuse box.
Airline system – from pump to pedals, splits into three, at the pedal box with an adaptor.
Clutch pedal switch – disconnects the system when the pedal is pressed down.
Brake pedal switch – disconnects the system when the pedal is pressed down.
Accelerator control – controls the movement of the accelerator, when in ‘cruise’ mode.
Mini wiring loom – connects the clutch and brake switches to the vehicles electrical system.
Control stalk – Replaces original indicator stalk and operates the cruise control system.
Make sure you get all the fixings along with the kit.

Right, here goes…

Shroud and panel removal –

First, remove the plastic panel below the steering column, by taking out the three Philips screws along the top edge – 2 to the right and 1 to the left of the steering column.
See attached photo 1, for reference.

Take out the plastic plug, on the lower right edge of the panel, with a slotted driver and remove the fourth screw from the recess. See attached photo 2, for reference.

The panel needs to be gently lifted up at the right hand side, to release the plastic locating hook and then rotated out toward the centre of the car, to release the locator on the left hand side. Put safely out of the way.

Next, remove the two Philips screws from the underside of the column shroud, close to the steering wheel and the third that is hidden well up inside the recess on the right hand side, next to the rake adjustment lever. See attached photos 3 & 4, for reference.

Pull the shroud apart and remove both sections from the column – it may be better to drop the rake adjustment lever, for easier removal of the lower shroud section.

There is no need to remove the steering wheel.

Pedal switch installation –

Install the clutch pedal switch first. There is a pre-drilled hole in the original clutch pedal box, to accept the switch bracket and fixing screw, with nut (I think it is M10, possibly M8).
See attachment photo 5, for reference.

The bracket simply sits on the top of the clutch pedal and is secured with the setscrew and nut. Also fit the switch plate, to the side of the pedal leg at the same time.

The brake pedal is similar to the clutch, except there is a captive nut welded to the new switch bracket (I think it is M8), plus there is already a switch installed, to operate the brake lights.
See attached photo 6, for reference.

The bracket is designed to fit under the original fitting, using a small lip to secure the outer part of the new bracket to the old one, while there is a hole provided for the brake switch to pass through (the brake light switch needs to be gently persuaded to pop through). The bracket is then secured with the setscrew and nut.

Look at the underside of the wiring loom, beside the steering column, near the underside of the dash and you will see a white connector, taped to the loom. Remove the tape and bring it down to the brake pedal. See attached photo 7, for reference.

Take the small wiring loom from your kit and plug it into the top of the clutch and brake pedal cruise switches, then into the white connector, under the dash.

The accelerator is the trickiest one, as you need to fit the servo unit to the pedal box.
See attached photo 8, for reference.

First, slip the two spring clip type captive nuts on to the edge of the right hand side of the steelwork, next to the accelerator mounting bolts.

Slip the rear section of the control unit into place, with the pedal control arm in behind the pedal.

Put the threaded arm from the left hand side of the control unit, through the mounting hole and secure with the fixing nut (M6). Do not fully tighten yet, until all fixings are in place.

Final fixings are the two hex head setscrews that pass through into the spring type captive nuts. Once they are tightened up, fully tighten the other nut.

Next, the front bracket is attached to the accelerator pedal box, next to the pivot and return spring, with one setscrew and a welded in, captive nut, plus locating tab.
See attached photo 9, for reference.

This part simply fits under the pedal box and with the locator tab in position over the steelwork, is secured in place.

The servo is then secured to the inside of this bracket, with the fixing stud in the centre hole and secured with a nut (M10). See attached photo 10, for reference.

Connect the three air lines to the brake and clutch switches, plus the accelerator servo, via the adaptor. Also on photo 5.

Fitting the new stalk – See attached photo 11, for reference.
Remove the two screws from the old indicator stalk – two small Philips screws, one above and one below, on the column. Remove the connector blocks and put the stalk out of the way.

Insert the new stalk and replace the fixing screws, from the old stalk. Refit connection blocks.

Locate the cruise connection, taped up against the left hand side of the column loom and release from the insulation tape. This plugs straight into the additional connector on the new stalk.

At this point, the column shroud can be replaced, if you wish.

Fitting the vacuum pump –

Open the bonnet and look to the rear of the engine bay, at the passenger side, next to the fuse box. There are two small black grommets, covering a pair of threaded holes.

These hold the vacuum pump in place. Remove them with a flat bladed screwdriver.
See attached picture 12, for reference.

Look underneath the fuse box and you will see the wiring loom for the pump, secured with the usual PVC tape. Remove the tape and bring the loom up around from under the box.

Secure the vacuum pump with two screws and connect the wiring loom.
See attached photo 18, for reference.

Attach the air line to the underside of the pump and ensure it is pushed fully on.

Feed the airline down, behind the lower part of the heat shield (next to the brake lines).
See attached photo 19, for reference.

Go back to the foot well of the car and look behind the brake pedal. There is a small circle on the firewall, surrounded by small slits. Push the rubber bung that is fitted behind it, out with a large screwdriver. Sorry, no photo, but easily visible.

Back to the engine bay, you can now feed the air line through the newly made hole. Make sure you have the bung on the air line, to plug the gap again. It should also come with the kit, or make a small hole in the existing bung. See attached photo 19, for reference.

Connect the air line to the spare place in the adaptor and make sure all the connections are secure. See attached photo 5, for reference.

Fitting the control module – No photos for this section (dead battery), but straight forward to do.
Remove the stereo from its mounting place and disconnect it, if you have the code.

Use a torch and look into the rear right hand side of the space. There will be a black connector block, taped into the side of the wiring loom, which took a bit of finding.

Free the connector and plug it into the cruise control module.

Secure the module to the rear, inside of the stereo space and refit the stereo.

Re-fit the column shroud, if not already done and also the dash panel.

There is a white plastic clip sitting behind the brake pedal that supports the ‘fabric’ section of the panel and keeps it from fouling your feet. Make sure the trim is slotted back into it, before securing the panel.

Refit the left hand side of the panel first, ensuring the locating lug is matched up, or it will not line up properly and then lift the right hand side over the locator hook.

Check panel fit and secure with the screws.

Fitting complete.

Trial run –

On a clear section of road, above 20 mph, switch the selector switch to on. The odometer panel will now have the ‘CRUISE’ legend visible. See attached photo 14, for reference.

Press the top of the rocker switch on the end of the stalk, until you reach the desired speed. See attached photo 17, for reference.

You will feel the accelerator pedal moving back from your foot.

Pressing the lower half of the rocker switch will, obviously, decrease your speed.

Operating the brake or the clutch will disconnect the system, as will simply switching the selector switch to OFF position.

Slide the selector to RESUME and it will re-engage the system, to the last selected speed.

It is also possible to overtake while still in cruise, by pressing the accelerator pedal and the pre-selected speed will resume, once the pedal is released again.

I hope this has been of use to you and has inspired you to fit your own kits.

Thanks for looking.

Gary

[Volvo2002]

You've been busy Gary. Very informative guide and I'm sure many will appreciate your efforts.

Good job

[leowyatt]

Awesome thread thanks. Will certainly use this once I get hold of a kit

[kaeferlein69]

hi gary i write from italy i'm very interested to put a cruise control in my volvo v40 year 2002
now your guide is very important for this mission but i can't see the pics,i think that are offline...
can you send me the pics at my mailbox?
i'm very happy if you can help me...
Many thanks Samuele

ps.sorry for my bad english but i was a bad student

[gatos]

What engine do you have? The cruise control is a bit different between the petrol cars, the GDI and the diesel versions

[rexer12]

for some reason i cant see any photos gary

[kaeferlein69]

Originally Posted by gatos

What engine do you have? The cruise control is a bit different between the petrol cars, the GDI and the diesel versions

i have a diesel version,but i think that the pics can help for put the single component

[kaeferlein69]

Originally Posted by rexer12

for some reason i cant see any photos gary

i have the same problem

[gatos]

Originally Posted by kaeferlein69

i have a diesel version,but i think that the pics can help for put the single component

Then that is different than GaryS40's guide. For the 1.9D all you need in one cut-off switch and a bracket for the brake pedal and the indicator stalk with the cruise control buttons on it. However, you will need to take the car to Volvo to program your ECU for the cruise control. That costs about 200-250 euro to do.........

If you are still interested, let me know and I'll send you some photos

[kaeferlein69]

Originally Posted by gatos

Then that is different than GaryS40's guide. For the 1.9D all you need in one cut-off switch and a bracket for the brake pedal and the indicator stalk with the cruise control buttons on it. However, you will need to take the car to Volvo to program your ECU for the cruise control. That costs about 200-250 euro to do.........

If you are still interested, let me know and I'll send you some photos

well i have buy this kit,i think that this is everything i need
but if you can send me some photos,it's a big hand for me...



do you think that i've need of more components?

thank you!!!