"Clonk" still there after replacing enginemounts

[R-P]

So what's next on the list?

Replaced all engine mounts bar the front vacuum/oil one (that was replaced 2 years ago).
So
- right-engine-one (old one looked perfect),
- top one centre (old one had some more play than the new one, didn't replace the left and right ones which attach the crossbar, couldn't find them),
- rear vacuum mount and
- the gearbox-anti-torquing one (which was Hutchinsons as I couldn't find Lemförder in the shop I ordered from, but clearly visible were still the top of the letters "L" and "V" from "VOLVO"in the part where someone had ground some markings away ).

The engine sits higher, the rubber stop between subframe and gearbox had 2mm clearing and now has about 1cm clearing (this was before driving off, so might have gone down a little). There was a distinct difference of about 1cm between the old and the new rear vacuum mount when sitting on the workbench.

All mounting was reasonably uneventful:
Rear engine mount was the hardest: we had a 14mm socket with a 1/8th (not 3/8th) extension and with slightly bending the steeringrod or whatever metal bar is smack in the way, with a tire-fitting-iron, it fit nicely. The bending is just a mm or so, so I consider this more than acceptable.
Getting it out was also a bitch, I suppose people without AWD will have it easier, then again, you Brits might have stuff linked to the steeringwheel rod in the way. I got it out on the right side of the rear-drive-shaft.

Started at 9:30AM, was done at 2:30PM, most of that time, my brother-in-law was helping out (also V70 owner). And by far most time was lost on (1) getting out the darn rear-vacuum mount (what joy this is going to be getting out the turbo, next project...) and (2) making sure I hadn't forgotten to tighten any bolts.

But the "clonk" is still (partially) there. So what's next? The suspension?
Edit: I hear it when accelerating mildly and if I brake hard enough it will do so again with the next acceleration. Might also do it slightly when braking hard enough to achieve said 'reset of the clonk'. It might be left front above the wheel, but that might also be because I somewhat expect it to be the strut somehow.

[offtopic]
I also tried adjusting the steering stops and snapped a bolt. Which idiot insists on putting steel bolts in aluminium?
[/offtopic]

[Georgeandkira]

Look at the front control arm bushings.

[Thassos]

I have a similar hard to find occasional clonk on my S60, one suggesrion was worn subframe bushes, (there are 4) could be your culprit perhaps? How many miles has yours done?

[Brian N]

Maybe bottom ball joint on hub?

[ronmanager]

I had a similar problem - not very loud though. It turned out to be CDs in clamshell cases in the centre console rolling back and forward!

Probably isn't that but you never know!

CV joints are the other culprits for clunking traditionally.

[AndyV7o]

Check the driveshaft bolts are present and tight. They come loose causing the driveshaft to clonk about.
This exact problem just faced a guy over on fb as a matter or fact. Replaced all mounts, clonk! After people saying about the bolts, he checked, they werent tight. Bought new ones (theyre stretch bolts) and greased the splines, tightened correctly, all is now rosey.

[pitavolvo]

try anti ping bolts

[R-P]

You mean the (XC90) drive-shaft bolts?

I put the torque wrench at 50Nm and torqued the front-wheel-drive-shaft-bolts, but they all didn't move before the wrench clicked, hence me hoping they weren't to blaim. I also often hear this described as 'pinging'. It's obviously hard to describe a sound, even hadrer when it is not your native language, but I wouldn't describe my problem as a 'ping'.

BTW, my Volvo got MOT'd 2 weeks back (and passed without any warnings/advicements), when I hadn't even replaced the engine supports, so it shouldn't/couldn't be the ball joints as they are an APK (=Dutch MOT) issue iirc.

Also ordered Lemförder controlarm bushings (3x more expensive than the cheapest versions but I think Lemförder is often OEM so seemed like a safe bet), so I will press those into the old control arms. Hope this will work out and the press my mate has will do the job.

[ASt85]

Torque for the standard bolts are
Stage 1 - 35 Nm
Stage 2 - Angle tighten a further 90°

For the rubber cone XC90 wheel bolts it is
50Nm - no further angle stage

[R-P]

Haven't had time* to replace any of the bought items, and had an hour to kill.

Drove by the Volvo dealer and payed them for 15 minutes of investigating. They drove the car and put it on the ramp/bridge/whatchamacallit_in_English_when_you_jack_up_the_ca r.

He (mechanic) was convinced it was the subframe having too much play and said it should clearly show if you would loosen the bolts and drop it slightly. He did expect it to be a loose bolt, but all subframebolts were torqued (at least) to spec.

If I support the subframe like 50cm from the ground, undo the bolts (and the top-engine-mounts) and lift the rest of the car a few centimeters, I think one should be able to change or at least investigate if they are to blame.

Not convinced, but since this conclusion cost me 30 euro's, I feel obliged to take it seriously...


*my mum passed away... so we had some other obligations.