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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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Where do you clamp the negative jump lead on your V70 ?Views : 1639 Replies : 24Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 27th, 2021, 10:09 | #11 |
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riight.. and Hi vis, mark of the area with protective barriers and put an anti-slip mat on the floor..
I suppose having read it I will have to do it the 'right way' from now on but I reserve the right to make cynical comments about health and safety while doing so |
Nov 27th, 2021, 10:24 | #12 | |
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Nov 27th, 2021, 10:35 | #13 |
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Exactly lol therein lies the reason for a lot of what they say, when really we all know just connect plus to plus and minus to minus, rev the donor, start the flat one, done
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Nov 27th, 2021, 12:11 | #14 |
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No issue with going to the battery to jump start but on the V70 it's just a lot more convenient to use the engine bay and Volvo has kindly provided a positive connection point by the fuse box.
Also, if the central locking won't work you can't get the tailgate open... And take my advice - don't keep your jump leads where they are hard to get at in the cargo bay. Also you don't need another car - I have an old battery charged up that I just carry out to the car that does the job although it usually does nothing first time and reconnecting the negative then puts it right. Then if you're going somewhere fine otherwise you have to drive around like a twit wasting fuel to give the battery a charge. Last edited by marcb; Nov 27th, 2021 at 12:16. |
Nov 27th, 2021, 12:16 | #15 | |
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Nov 27th, 2021, 12:49 | #16 |
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OK Also V70 manual suggests using the +ve terminal and the lifting eye (-ve) under the bonnet to jump FROM another car/battery.
Me, common sense tells me to apply the power where the power comes from / goes to, that is at the battery. Even if my car is full of stuff, I still have to get to the jump cables which are in the boot space by the battery
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V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Est SE Automatic (5 speed) MG Midget Mk1 1962 Previous: RR TDV8 3.6 '08; RR TD6 3.0 '02; RR P38A V8 '99; Audi A4 Cab 3.0 V6 2004; Volvo 740 GLE Est 1989 Have VIDA & VXDIAG NANO on W10Pro - happy to help |
Nov 27th, 2021, 15:28 | #17 |
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There's more to know about jumping today's systems than you might think.
For one thing, the electronic voltage regulators of today are not as hearty as the old "telegraph keys" some of the older members here grew up with. They're sensitive to sudden disconnections. The simplest thing to remember is to "just take it". That means connect the donor battery without the donor car running. You can (and I do) charge a dead battery with a running car but I do not crank the dead car with the donor running. And yes, I sure have done it "wrong" a 100 times but most of that 100 was before cars included 20 or more damn low-voltage processors. Just one added step to avoid frying expensive components? I'll do that. BONUS: Read up on AGM batteries before you go out and buy one. There's a higher, almost unavoidable, likelihood of damage if you overlook some of the caveats. Last edited by Georgeandkira; Nov 27th, 2021 at 15:31. |
Nov 27th, 2021, 18:30 | #18 | |
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The positive terminal under the bonnet is a direct connection to the battery and the ground is a ground so no difference. |
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Nov 27th, 2021, 18:38 | #19 | |
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As I said though first connecting a battery usually doesn't do anything and I have to disconnect and reclamp on the negative to the lifting post before it 'takes' so maybe some funny electronic issues. |
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Nov 27th, 2021, 19:16 | #20 |
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The engine
As in when removing from car Or when taking weight off engine mounts I suppose |
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