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Rainwater leaks - standard locations?

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Old Nov 27th, 2021, 17:20   #21
eeedelli
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Oh! I didn't realise it was adjustable. Thanks for that info.

Mind you, if I adjust it one way (e.g. to make it open more, so as to get more heat (assuming there is some more movement available on the valve)) then that would suggest that the inability to cut off all flow in summer would be even worse than it is now, wouldn't it ... or does it somehow increase the range of movement at both ends of travel?

Are there different holes along the lever arm so as to multiply the movement like a gearing ratio? If so, perhaps changing to a hole nearer to the pivot would be all I need to do, as the same amount of movement of the bowden wire would then move the valve's arm over a greater angle.

I don't expect to get to this in a hurry, though, as I've just done my back in (again - regular problem) so crawling around under the dash certainly isn't going to happen any day soon, until it settles down again.
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740 SE Est '89 (post-f’lift, laid-up)
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Last edited by eeedelli; Nov 27th, 2021 at 17:24.
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Old Nov 27th, 2021, 21:24   #22
Ian21401
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I understand re your back problem David. I have recurring problems myself. I find that walking is the best exercise for mine, but we are all different.
Trying to do as I suggest is not the easiest of contortion exercises.
It is a few years since I needed to adjust mine after fitting a replacement valve. I must have obtained one of the last OEM valves.
IIRC the small clip locates over the cable outer and into a couple of slots on the valve body, one on each side of the outer, so trapping the cable outer. Releasing the clip from one of the slots releases the pressure on the cable outer enabling it to be moved slightly, either towards the valve or away from it. It doesn’t need to be moved much. Slightly too far one way will allow full movement of the valve to fully open but prevent it moving to fully closed and slightly too far the other way will permit full closure but prevent fully open. It is a very fine line between the two but there should be a point which permits full movement in each direction.
I do not recall there being more than one hole in the valve lever where the cable inner locates.
Best wishes.
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Old Nov 27th, 2021, 23:49   #23
eeedelli
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Thanks Ian.

Unfortunately, similar problems with hips, knees and metatarsals (an alternative to the old wartime song of hands, knees and bumpsadaisy?) means I can't stay on my feet or walk around for too long these days either. <sigh>

Anyway, although I have yet to investigate, your excellent description makes me suspect that whoever last fiddled with it (perhaps to replace the valve) might not have replaced the clip. That would allow the outer to travel with the movement of the inner, thus reducing the *effective* movement of the valve's arm to a large extent, resulting in the situation whereby the heat output goes from 'not very much' to 'not much more'!
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740 SE Est '89 (post-f’lift, laid-up)
940 Celebration Est ‘98 2.3 LPT (for 'best')
440 Xi '93 (barely run-in!)
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Old Nov 28th, 2021, 11:55   #24
Ian21401
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Need to remove the under dash panel in order to view the valve area. Also a light source to illuminate the valve area.
The contortions required would probably be on your knees lying face down over the driver’s seat with your head towards the pedals and left hand reaching up to operate the control knob and your right shoulder on or towards the floor. Then both hands to the valve to fiddle with the clip.
Your supposition regarding the possible absence of the clip and the resulting movement of the cable makes complete sense but, unfortunately, there is only one way to find out.
Best wishes.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2021, 18:25   #25
eeedelli
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I managed to have another look today. I didn't have a chance to get the hosepipe on it but neither did I find any tell-tale signs of leakage around the bulkhead and sides.

However ... when I sat on the driver's seat, I spotted a couple of drips hanging from where the headlining (if it had still been there!) would have been clipped to the top of the screen. I also then realised that the side of the driver's seat nearest the centre was quite soggy, corresponding with the position of the drip, above.

As there's no sunroof on this one, it looks as though it must be getting in somewhere along the top of the screen so I think the next move will be to take the top screen trim off again and use some brushable seam sealer along there.

Meanwhile, I had a look at the heater valve. It actually looks original - no sign of doctoring or anything. It also appears to operate from almost one end-stop to almost the other end-stop, which I would have thought should be sufficient to allow a decent amount of water through at the open position and still be adequate to stem the flow at the other, neither of which appear to be the case in practice.

I've put a wide view (and a close-up using a Borescope) on Youtube at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hM48noMNjvY and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wtv5nULC_0 respectively. (YouTube appears to be defaulting to the worst screen resolution on both of those for some reason, so you might have to use the little gearwheel in the bottom RH corner to correct that.)

My suspicion, therefore, is that the operating spindle has somehow become detached from the actual flap inside the valve (perhaps snapped internally) and the flap merely floats in the flow, slightly opening when the lever is in the 'hot' position and restricting the movement (to some extent) when in the 'cold' position.

Given the difficulty of replacement, the length of time I've already put up with it and the lack of decent weather to work in, I'm tempted to leave it alone for now! However, given the amount of damp in there owing to the leak, it took nearly 20 minutes to dry the screen yesterday, which is not exactly useful. <sigh>
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740 GL Est '89 (pre-f’lift, daily 'shed')
740 SE Est '89 (post-f’lift, laid-up)
940 Celebration Est ‘98 2.3 LPT (for 'best')
440 Xi '93 (barely run-in!)
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Old Dec 3rd, 2021, 11:14   #26
Ian21401
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I’ve looked at your YouTube links ( well done with them) ( and admiration with managing to do that in this weather ) and agree that the valve appears in good order and the movement appears to be as it should be so, yes, there is something else causing this. I don’t know anything about the internals of the valve so cannot comment on your hypothesis, although it does sound feasible.
Maybe someone with a dead valve could perform an autopsy on it.
Good luck with your leak/drip problem.
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Last edited by Ian21401; Dec 3rd, 2021 at 11:41. Reason: Add text.
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Old Dec 4th, 2021, 17:17   #27
Ian21401
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I’ve dug out my old valve. The lever operates a simple shaft which moves a disc across the bore of the valve.
The valve was mounted in a Control Housing which is what is actually secured to the bulkhead.
However, according to my notes made at the time there are two control cables. The lower control cable is operated by the dashboard heat control and moves the plastic lever and a cam which operates the valve itself and the upper cable, which, I was informed at the time, operates an air intake flap somewhere in the heater itself.
After all this time I do not fully understand those notes myself and would have to revisit the valve in the car to explain more fully, but you may have seen something on your car which makes some sense of all that.
Sorry it is so vague.
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