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Crankshaft spigot bearing

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Old Nov 18th, 2021, 22:24   #1
grahamwatson
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Default Crankshaft spigot bearing

I am (still) converting my 1800ES from auto to manual. I have a new spigot bearing to install in the rear of the crankshaft (B20). Anybody got any tips on how I remove the socket that's currently in there (and into which a peg on the front of the torque convertor fits)? Is it in there just as a push fit, or is there a fixing that I am not seeing? The new bearing comes with a sprung washer and a circlip but I cannot see any equivalent for the existing socket.

Thanks in anticipation!
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Old Nov 20th, 2021, 23:02   #2
142 Guy
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I am unfamiliar with the term spigot bearing; but, I will speculate that you are referring to what is called a pilot bearing on the west side of the Atlantic.

I am working from a 1971 140 parts manual; but, I speculate that the BW35 set up is the same as exists on the 1800ES. For the BW35 version, the parts manual just refers to a guide bushing (part 28 a) which I am going to guess is pressed into part #28. You could remove part #28 (including 28a) which is thru bolted to the carrier plate (part #26); but, since the whole carrier plate assembly is being replaced by the M40/M41 flywheel that seems unnecessary.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2021, 00:21   #3
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I have no knowledge about the Volvo. The MG of the same era used a spigot bushing that was simply a press fit. I've been able to pull them with rented bearing puller and with a slide hammer. Both had little teeth that slid in and hooked to the back. I've also threaded a bolt into the bearing and used a puller. Here are some alternatives. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs105.htm
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Old Nov 22nd, 2021, 11:48   #4
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If there's no circlip holding it in you can fill the centre hole with grease, and if you the hammer a suitably sized rod, or bolt, into the hole, the pressure should hydraulic it out.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2021, 23:26   #5
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Agree the easiest way to remove the pilot bearing is as described by old fart. Believe it or not, wet toilet paper works as well as grease and is a little less messy.
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Old Nov 24th, 2021, 13:26   #6
Ron Kwas
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Forum;

I've heard of the grease and toilet paper methods, but I've never found to need them...besides, if it is not a sealed bearing, and the spaces between balls are open, I can just imagine the mess...

I just use a sliding hammer with a bolt installed, whose head fits through the inner race hole, then is held to the side with a screwdriver, in order to catch the inner race...a couple of impact pulls from the slide later, and the bearing is easily persuaded out...without any kind of mess!

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Old Dec 2nd, 2021, 23:37   #7
grahamwatson
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Thanks everybody. I am only just seeing these replies as I have been sidetracked by a non Volvo issue

It is the part you identified 142, and the replacement bearing, washer and circlip are items 30, 31 and 32 on your diagram. I think that 29 must just be (one of six) flywheel bolts rather than a centrally located bolt as indicated.

And Blue, there is indeed space to get a small puller leg in behind, but only one and I don't (currently!) have a slide hammer.

So Fart's hydraulic method is what I will be trying as soon as I can get back under the car. And I will keep the toilet paper handy, Austin.

And no worry about blow-through Ron. The bit I am trying to remove is just a solid spacer, not a bearing, but I do see your concern.

Thanks again everyone!
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Old Dec 3rd, 2021, 21:32   #8
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It's out! The power of hydraulics (and a big hammer).
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Old Dec 4th, 2021, 17:56   #9
Derek UK
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I believe that replacements are fully sealed bearing so the washer and clip are essentially redundant. Don't quote me on that! Inexpensive from Brookhouse;
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Old Dec 22nd, 2021, 12:44   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
I believe that replacements are fully sealed bearing so the washer and clip are essentially redundant. Don't quote me on that! Inexpensive from Brookhouse;
The bearings have always been sealed. The clip is to hold the bearing in place
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