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Noisy Main Fuel Pump?

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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 13:53   #21
Steve 940
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Many thanks for these suggestions, most helpful, and thanks Forrest about the tip about being able to do main pump and filter swop whilst hoses are disconnected at the sender/tank, makes absolute sense now you mention it.

Rversteeg , thank you and yes really good guides on both the Skandix website and this forum FAQ pages, must have read over these 3-4 times, job as described just sounds so simple, but I think I'm just overthinking the job, and worrying about worst case scenarios......

Bit undecided on what route to take, as whilst the seller put a new filter and main pump on, it has obviously been working overtime over the last 6 weeks or so.

As mentioned, I'm well out of practice in tinkering around with cars, so I'm a bit wary of pulling everything apart all at once, so think I might do in pump change using all new stainless hose clips, then cross fingers and see if it starts, and more importantly, has the noise disappeared. If not, and main pump is still noisy, and whilst sender top is still all accessible, I could then just remove the main fuel supply line at the sender unit top, to replace the main pump and filter.

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Steve
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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 14:48   #22
Laird Scooby
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Originally Posted by Steve 940 View Post

As mentioned, I'm well out of practice in tinkering around with cars, so I'm a bit wary of pulling everything apart all at once, so think I might do in pump change using all new stainless hose clips, then cross fingers and see if it starts, and more importantly, has the noise disappeared. If not, and main pump is still noisy, and whilst sender top is still all accessible, I could then just remove the main fuel supply line at the sender unit top, to replace the main pump and filter.

Cheers
Steve
That's your best course of action Steve - don't go changing everything at once as if one of the new parts happens to be faulty (unlikely) or another fault develops, you will be chasing your tail trying to find out why it won't start. If you've only changed one item, you can refit the original to see if that's the cause, if not then you can try other avenues of diagnosis.

That's the worst case scenario obviously, ideally you'll fit the in-tank pump, fire it up, have no leaks and no noise from the main pump after a short while. If all is good but you think the main pump is still a smidge noisy, add 2 egg-cupfuls (~50ml each) to a full tank or pro rata of ATF-U or similar synthetic ATF to the fuel tank. This will lube the pumps and also help clean the injectors and revive any rubber seals in the system.

Good luck with it and keep us posted with your progress/done report!
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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 22:25   #23
Forrest
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Just to be clear on a couple of points.

Disconnecting the low pressure (tank) side of the main fuel pump while the hose is disconnected at the fuel sender will mean you don’t loose fuel due to syphoning and won’t have to clamp this hose. It will NOT relieve the pressure at the rail which should be the other side of a non-return valve. You will still have to take one of the many precautions suggested to avoid a jet of fuel under pressure when you loosen the high pressure side.

Also, if you read my earlier post I left it two years between replacing the main fuel pump and the in-tank lift pump and I have not had any problems with the main pump which did resume being noisy not long after I originally replaced it. Now, I’ll qualify this in that I did use a genuine Bosch main pump. A cheaper one might have experienced more wear.

The original Bosch pump was still working when I replaced it in 2018 and I think on reflection the lift pump must have packed up in 2009 if not earlier so it had managed circa ten years and 100k miles of abuse.
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Old Dec 5th, 2021, 12:13   #24
Steve 940
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Right, decided to dive into this today, removed floor covering and gained access to the top of the tank.

Bit dirty, but after cleaning up, the hoses and clips didn't look too bad, hose clamp fixing screws are a bit rusty, but doused with plenty of penetrating oil.

As I hadn't been able to hear the in tank pump noise using a hose at the tank filler and better half turning the key, I had been assuming a dead in tank pump causing the main pump to be noisy.

Thought that before undoing anything, I'd just get her to turn key, with me in the boot listening at the tank sender outlet, definitely can hear the in tank working though.

Hmmm, bit reluctant to pull everything apart, and just wondered if there is any way to verify the fuel is actually being pulled up from the tank?. I'm wondering if I can remove the fuel supply hose from the filter/main pump end, and turn key, to actually confirm fuel is getting out of the tank??

Would appreciate any thoughts on this, and if to just pull main pump fuse so as not to run it dry?

Cheers
Steve
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Old Dec 5th, 2021, 12:39   #25
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Right, decided to dive into this today, removed floor covering and gained access to the top of the tank.

Bit dirty, but after cleaning up, the hoses and clips didn't look too bad, hose clamp fixing screws are a bit rusty, but doused with plenty of penetrating oil.

As I hadn't been able to hear the in tank pump noise using a hose at the tank filler and better half turning the key, I had been assuming a dead in tank pump causing the main pump to be noisy.

Thought that before undoing anything, I'd just get her to turn key, with me in the boot listening at the tank sender outlet, definitely can hear the in tank working though.

Hmmm, bit reluctant to pull everything apart, and just wondered if there is any way to verify the fuel is actually being pulled up from the tank?. I'm wondering if I can remove the fuel supply hose from the filter/main pump end, and turn key, to actually confirm fuel is getting out of the tank??

Would appreciate any thoughts on this, and if to just pull main pump fuse so as not to run it dry?

Cheers
Steve
Given the weather today i can understand your reluctance to continue and you could do what you're suggesting but beware of the syphon effect! Once it starts flowing it's difficult to stop!

Also it's not a definitive test of the in-tank pump. It will simply show that it's pushing fuel out or not, not whether it's actually pushing enough fuel out.

My advice would be for you to do a Magnus Magnusson - "I've started so i'll finish". At least on the in-tank pump, 99% of the job is inside the car so you'll stay dry.
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Old Dec 5th, 2021, 12:52   #26
Steve 940
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Cheers Dave,

Yes weather forecast wasn't that great, but I can at least get the back half of the car under a lean to.

Suspect you're right about this, although the day didn't start well, as getting into the car first thing I've had more rainwater come in through upper edge of door frame, think that is part related to drivers door lower hinge having play, so door drops and doesn't shut properly.

Started her up and then sounded like a leak somewhere on manifold, or Turbo to front pipe joint!!!

Think with those on my mind as well as the pump issue, I just talked myself round to not proceeding further.... procrastination of the highest order.

Good advice about siphon effect, as not ideal having a few gallons of juice all over the driveway.

Cheers
Steve
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Old Dec 5th, 2021, 14:10   #27
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Cheers Dave,

Yes weather forecast wasn't that great, but I can at least get the back half of the car under a lean to.

Suspect you're right about this, although the day didn't start well, as getting into the car first thing I've had more rainwater come in through upper edge of door frame, think that is part related to drivers door lower hinge having play, so door drops and doesn't shut properly.

Started her up and then sounded like a leak somewhere on manifold, or Turbo to front pipe joint!!!

Think with those on my mind as well as the pump issue, I just talked myself round to not proceeding further.... procrastination of the highest order.

Good advice about siphon effect, as not ideal having a few gallons of juice all over the driveway.

Cheers
Steve
If you're not needing to use it Steve, i'd suggest staying in the warm and dry and having a good look another day in that case.

I like the old saying, "Don't delay, procrastinate tomorrow!"
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Old Dec 5th, 2021, 14:36   #28
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😀😀👍👍

Yes, bit of a pity as it's my main car at the moment, I have access to SWMBO Rav 4 but she needs that during the week.

Just might need to find a 145 as a second 'luxury' backup vehicle, been looking on and off since I started my Volvo ownership experience, although they look to be rather scarce or complete rust buckets.

Whilst being self employed I do have the luxury of being able to set aside a few days (weeks the way the snag list is expanding!!) so will perhaps see if I can get to Xmas, trouble is then getting hold of bits over that period, weather also probably not condusive to boosting morale to get out and crawling around the old girl.

Cheers
Steve

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Old Dec 5th, 2021, 15:25   #29
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Originally Posted by Steve 940 View Post
😀😀👍👍

Yes, bit of a pity as it's my main car at the moment, I have access to SWMBO Rav 4 but she needs that during the week.

Just might need to find a 145 as a second 'luxury' backup vehicle, been looking on and off since I started my Volvo ownership experience, although they look to be rather scarce or complete rust buckets.

Whilst being self employed I do have the luxury of being able to set aside a few days (weeks the way the snag list is expanding!!) so will perhaps see if I can get to Xmas, trouble is then getting hold of bits over that period, weather also probably not condusive to boosting morale to get out and crawling around the old girl.

Cheers
Steve
At the risk of stating the obvious Steve, the youngest 145 is going to be 48 years old now and as such, even the best are likely to have age-related problems, even on an apparently well-sorted vehicle. That's not to say a 145 wouldn't be a great back up car but the snagging list could end up longer on it than it is on yours.

On the subject of rust, again anything 50 ish years old is likely to have a bit of tinworm so the obvious answer is to go newer. That points at the 245 but many early ones (up to ~1979) were built from cheap Russian steel, same as Fiats and Lancias of the time. The only reason this problem didn't come to light sooner than it did was because of Volvos anti-corrosion program.
This was rectified and soon they were building cars that would not rust spectacularly again but by then, the 240 series in general had blaoted somewhat (as had most other cars in the world) but the engines were still the same so they tended to be somewhat lethargic, wallowy old barges.
Enter the 740 series - tighter suspension, PAS throughout and livelier engines (from 1986 on at least) although the 2.0 should still be avoided.
Better anti-corrosion, more comfortable IMHO, smoother and better economy/performance. Also shares a lot more parts with your 940 so reduces the need to keep two sets of spares on the shelf!

Chances are you'd be able to pick up a half-decent 745 for a bit less than a 145 and have better parts availability plus the other advantages listed above.

There are a few other non-Volvo alternatives to a useful estate that would be reliable as long as they were serviced, something like a Honda Accord Aerodeck comes to mind.
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