Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > 700/900 Series General
Register Members Cars Help Calendar Extra Stuff

Notices

700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Noisy Main Fuel Pump?

Views : 1771

Replies : 28

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Nov 4th, 2021, 18:49   #11
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 12:22
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve 940 View Post
That's fantastic Dave, should be really helpful.

Great tip about pulling fuses, hadn't even thought of that as a possible, seems Haynes have 'disconnect battery' before virtually any job these days, but bearing in mind working on fuel tank I wasn't going to risk it!!

Think I'll also hotglue some thin rubber around my pliers, don't need them to slip on hoseclip and spark, unlikely I suppose, but don't really fancy being BBQ'd.

Will get seats up and measure hoses through the access panel so new clips are on hand. Also will be able to see the condition of hoses, if any might need replacing then I can get hose and joiners as required.

Great to hear the Airtex ships with hose as well, will hopefully be a simple swop.

Found a supposedly genuine tank outlet gasket on eBay, but coming from Lithuania apparently so could be a while.

Yes, the Bosch one was more expensive, but overall looks as though both will come under the price of Bosch pump from UK suppliers so thought I might as well. Probably get HMRC hitting me for taxes, but hey ho😀

Oh, fire extinguisher also ordered !!! 😀

Cheers
Steve
You almost certainly won't need pliers Steve, for anything!

I can tell you the bore of the two main connections on the tank, 8mm (return) and 12mm (feed) but unsure on the OD of the hoses. If any need replacing, it's better to buy long lengths of hoses and replace the entire length, if it's perished one end then the other end will also have perished. The main feed hose (12mm bore) is the only one that needs the tank to be removed as far as i remember, the return hose has a nearby accessible hard line it connects to, the feed hose hard line is more or less above the tank though. The other end of the feed hard line is a few inches before the main in-line pump and that also has a 12mm rubber section in between.

As for the tank seal, your local Volvo dealer should have them on the shelf for about £11 - easier to pick one up from there than wait months for the one from Lithuania to not turn up! Check their feedback, if it's the seller i'm thinking of then they have a lot of negative feedback for non-delivery.

If you specified FedEx delivery on the more expensive option, that is usually with Import Duties paid so should come direct to your door, bypassing HMRC because you've already paid the duty.
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Nov 4th, 2021, 19:14   #12
Steve 940
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Today 08:33
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Stowmarket
Default

Once again Dave much appreciated, I’ll get some 8 & 12mm R9 fuel hose then.
Cheers
Steve
Steve 940 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve 940 For This Useful Post:
Old Nov 5th, 2021, 01:59   #13
Forrest
VOC Member
 

Last Online: Today 09:44
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Gloucester
Default

Might be worth a read of the thread from when I did my in-tank pump last year. Many helpful tips from members on here and I tried to document my experience soon afterwards while it was fresh in my mind. That one went very well.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=312783

I did my main pump and filter a year or two before doing the in-tank pump. Whilst notionally an easier job it went wrong every step of the way. I neglected the tips about releasing the pressure in the system and got fuel in my eye. It stings like hell! I also managed to break the rigid plastic hose the FAQ tells you not to break.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=287217

Good luck!
Forrest is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Forrest For This Useful Post:
Old Nov 5th, 2021, 08:02   #14
Steve 940
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Today 08:33
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Stowmarket
Default

Hi Forrest,
Many thanks for that information, most appreciated.
Work today so will go through those posts this evening.
Yes, I seem to get jobs that either go as hoped, or as you say others, where it goes wrong the moment you start.
Cheers
Steve
Steve 940 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Steve 940 For This Useful Post:
Old Nov 24th, 2021, 19:48   #15
Steve 940
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Today 08:33
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Stowmarket
Default

Right, new fuel tank seal gasket picked up today from Brookhouse, so seems I am now fully armed with everything I need to replace the in tank pump.

Can't put it off much long as noise is driving me mad, project for the weekend I think.

Newbie question, so apologies, I have been keeping tank topped up to hopefully aid the noisy main pump, do I need the tank to be say down to 3/4 or 1/2 full before pulling sender / pump assembly??

New main pump and filter we're fitted when bought around 6-7 weeks ago, I have new ones just in case, should I renew them at the same time or just keep as spares??

If I need to replace filter, Forrest gave good info to be aware of stored fuel pressure, don't really want an eye full, but Haynes just says clamp hoses, not something I would want to do. Is the best way just to remove pump fuse when idling till it stalls??

Just have a niggling fear that doing that, will cause something else to bugger up!!

Cheers
Steve
Steve 940 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve 940 For This Useful Post:
Old Nov 24th, 2021, 20:02   #16
Volvo_Utrecht
Volvo Utrecht
 

Last Online: Yesterday 16:20
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Utrecht
Default

Less than 1/2 full is OK, more than 1/2 full will cause you to lose fuel.

Also I use a tiny bit of Vaseline on the rubber seal. Makes it easy to slide the tank unit in.
Volvo_Utrecht is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Volvo_Utrecht For This Useful Post:
Old Nov 24th, 2021, 23:02   #17
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 12:22
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve 940 View Post
Right, new fuel tank seal gasket picked up today from Brookhouse, so seems I am now fully armed with everything I need to replace the in tank pump.

Can't put it off much long as noise is driving me mad, project for the weekend I think.

Newbie question, so apologies, I have been keeping tank topped up to hopefully aid the noisy main pump, do I need the tank to be say down to 3/4 or 1/2 full before pulling sender / pump assembly??

New main pump and filter we're fitted when bought around 6-7 weeks ago, I have new ones just in case, should I renew them at the same time or just keep as spares??

If I need to replace filter, Forrest gave good info to be aware of stored fuel pressure, don't really want an eye full, but Haynes just says clamp hoses, not something I would want to do. Is the best way just to remove pump fuse when idling till it stalls??

Just have a niggling fear that doing that, will cause something else to bugger up!!

Cheers
Steve
If i know in advance that i need to work on the fuel system Steve, i get the car on ramps or axle stands so it doesn't need to be started then leave it overnight for the fuel lines to depressurise. Also what Haynes haven't taken into account is the fact most of the fuel lines that will be pressurised are hard nylon lines so clamping isn't an option - not without damaging the lines anyway!

As already stated by someone else (Volvo Utrecht?) you need the tank at or below 1/2 full before removing the sender/in-tank pump unit. If in doubt, get the back end up on ramps so the remaining fuel flows to the front end of the tank. Vaseline or silicone grease is useful to help the new seal slide in but only a little - retighten the lock ring a month or two after doing the job or it will leak, even with a new seal.
__________________
Cheers
Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
Laird Scooby is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post:
Old Nov 24th, 2021, 23:27   #18
Forrest
VOC Member
 

Last Online: Today 09:44
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Gloucester
Default

I had the tank fairly full when I replaced my in-tank pump. I reasoned this was safer. The less room there is in the tank for air the less potential it has to explode should you accidentally strike a spark; which, of course, you really want to avoid doing.

The potential for an eyeful of fuel comes from dismantling the high pressure side of the main fuel pump underneath the car. There shouldn’t be high pressure at the fuel sender in the tank. There is a check valve on the main fuel pump which retains pressure at the rail once the engine is turned off. Three methods are suggested in the FAQ for depressurising the system.

Pull the fuel pump fuse while engine is running, engine stops with no fuel pressure left in line.
Alternative 1: pull the fuses for the fuel pumps and crank the engine.
Alternative 2: attach a vacuum pump to the FPR vacuum fitting and apply vacuum.

Where you really do need to clamp the fuel line is if you remove the filter and main pump under the car while the fuel sender is still connected in the tank. Fuel will syphon out of the tank if you don’t. You won’t have this problem if you work on the main pump while you’ve got the fuel line disconnected at the sender. However, you will then be changing a lot of things at once which will make any troubleshooting harder.
Forrest is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Forrest For This Useful Post:
Old Nov 24th, 2021, 23:39   #19
Steve 940
Premier Member
 

Last Online: Today 08:33
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Stowmarket
Default

Thanks so much for responses from everyone, really helpful.

Seems I might need to do a few miles before attempting this, or I will probably syphon it out as I use it as a daily so only have the weekend to attempt this. Good to hear leaving overnight will depressurise fuel lines, seems as though the Haynes manual just copies and pastes incorrect information.

Oh well, needs must, time to bite the bullet, and I'm sure sure I will end up either posting the outcome or in desparation😀👍
Steve 940 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Steve 940 For This Useful Post:
Old Nov 25th, 2021, 10:27   #20
Rversteeg
Master Member
 

Last Online: Yesterday 13:57
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Amersfoort (NL)
Default Description

A how-to with pictures:
https://www.skandix.de/en/documents/...-tank/3000438/
Not a complicated job.
Rversteeg is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Rversteeg For This Useful Post:
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:08.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.