Morning sickness, wandering a bit, PAS woes.

[StrongSpearWorks]

To update on this, I’ve been applying WD40 to the joints daily (I waft WD wherever I go now), and reckon the lower joint needs replacement.

Would this contribute to my general wandering?

I had an alignment last time I had four new tyres about a year ago but this wandering is new. Depending on the camber of the road it really wants to wander either left or right, and a rough patch of tarmac can make the wheel flap about like nobody’s business. Steering feels sloppy, but the smallest turn of the steering is translating to the road wheels.

I can also generate a knock when parked with the wheels not quite on lock, and a small wiggle of the steering wheel and something is clunking. Going to have it off the ground and front wheels off and start prying the suspension and steering components.

Anything sounding familiar I could look at?

I also read that a saggy rear end could contribute. 🤷
The fun continues.

[360beast]

I'd be looking at the steering arms that go in to the rack, the track rod ends and bottom ball joints. Get under the front end with a light and get someone to rock the steering back and forth to make the clunk happen and try to locate it.

[StrongSpearWorks]

That would be annoying…. All of that is all new (well, all replaced about a year ago).

[StrongSpearWorks]

I think my wandering woes might be attributed to the (?) lower control arm bushings. They look knackered and with the wheels on the ground there’s a definite gap.
I have the parts but I think the nut on the rear end is 21mm, which I don’t have so I’ll order one in.

[StrongSpearWorks]

I’m guessing the cone bushings are the flying saucer? The below seems commensurate to my experiences.
From Volvo club.org

Control Rod Cone Bushings. There are some symptoms to make you want to check the cone bushings. Some of them are difficult to sense just as with worn shock absorbers- the real difference is only felt when they are replaced. Symptoms that you WILL notice (other than those already discussed):

1) A squeaking when the suspension is at long travel such as when going over a speed bump at slow speeds.
2)A clunking knock, with matching feedback through the steering wheel when turning at slow speeds with the steering at full lock, particularly when on a dirt or gravel surface.
3) Eventually when the suspension is in a long-travel situation, the squeak will turn into a clunk like hitting a solid chunk of wood with a mallet. When you hear the squeak it is time to check the cone bushings. The squeak is the rubber against the control arm. It happens because the rubber is worn, compressed, and worn. As soon as it begins to move (causing the squeak) its wear will rapidly increase causing poor handling, uneven breaking, accelerated tire wear, and can eventually lead to a very unsafe and even dangerous situation.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by StrongSpearWorks

I think my wandering woes might be attributed to the (?) lower control arm bushings. The look knackered and with the wheels on the ground there’s a definite gap.
I have the parts but I think the nut on the rear end is 21mm, which I don’t have so I’ll order one in.

The aforementioned spaceship bushes! Someone else (think is was Chris aka challo) replicated my experience of not being able to get the front wheels successfully aligned ("tracked") becaue of knackered spaceship bushes.

You'll neet one spaceship bush kit per side (2 bushes, 2 washers, spacer tube and new bolt) and a pot of Loctite 243 and a torque wrench. You'll also need to remove the back end of the radius arm from the chassis so you can check that bush as well - usually they're ok but they eventually wear like all bushes.

The Loctite 243 is threadlock and you will need it for tightening the centre bolt - only fully tighten the bolts when the weight of the car is on the wheels though!

[StrongSpearWorks]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

You'll neet one spaceship bush kit per side (2 bushes, 2 washers, spacer tube and new bolt) and a pot of Loctite 243 and a torque wrench. You'll also need to remove the back end of the radius arm from the chassis so you can check that bush as well - usually they're ok but they eventually wear like all bushes.

I've not examined the kits I have, which contain front and rear bushes and new bolts... don't recall seeing a new spacer tube in there.

Don't suppose you know the socket sizes for the rear end, where it attaches to the body?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by StrongSpearWorks

I've not examined the kits I have, which contain front and rear bushes and new bolts... don't recall seeing a new spacer tube in there.

Don't suppose you know the socket sizes for the rear end, where it attaches to the body?

I can't remember off the top of my head, it's a few years since i did mine, 18 and 15mm ring a bell but i might be thinking of my Rover suspension that is all 18 and 15mm..............

[griston64]

Originally Posted by StrongSpearWorks

I've not examined the kits I have, which contain front and rear bushes and new bolts... don't recall seeing a new spacer tube in there.

Don't suppose you know the socket sizes for the rear end, where it attaches to the body?

If you go for rubber spaceship bushes there is no spacer tube ( you only have that on Superflex poly bushes ) They just slide onto the strut rod. You need to really clean the mating surfaces as they will wear out in no time. Even more so if you go for cheapo rubber.

[griston64]

Originally Posted by StrongSpearWorks

I've not examined the kits I have, which contain front and rear bushes and new bolts... don't recall seeing a new spacer tube in there.

Don't suppose you know the socket sizes for the rear end, where it attaches to the body?

Strut rod to chassis is 18mm and 21mm. The bolt on the spaceship which goes through the washer is 17mm. I would recommend you get new washers as well