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I've just joined the (operational) 940 owners club!

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Old Oct 25th, 2021, 14:00   #11
360beast
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This is the roof rack I might sell

If you do sell the rack to Ben then I'm happy to remove it for you Mark and Ben can pick it up but I've got nowhere to store it so it would have to be picked up pretty quick.
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Old Oct 25th, 2021, 14:15   #12
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Not sure if this would work out but you could potentially put it on mine and then I could deliver it to Bristol(ish) on the way home when I pick mine up Luke. M5/A36 is an easier route home for me rather than going Circencester/Chippenham or Cirencester/Swindon. The moons would need to align but definitely an option.
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Old Oct 25th, 2021, 14:36   #13
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I'd definitely be interested in the roof rack! Unfortunately I still don't have 30 posts so can't PM.
And thanks for the kind offers of storage\transport, I may take you up on them
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Old Oct 25th, 2021, 14:37   #14
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Originally Posted by Badger vs Bodgers View Post
I'd definitely be interested in the roof rack! Unfortunately I still don't have 30 posts so can't PM.
And thanks for the kind offers of storage\transport, I may take you up on them
I'll pm you with my number to message my mobile

Cheers

Mark
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Old Oct 25th, 2021, 21:27   #15
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Hi ther Badger vs Bodger

Welcome to 940 life, looks a nice car and interesting upgrades mentioned.

Myself now around 3-4 weeks into '94 plate 940 Wentworth 2.0 Turbo ownership, and like you have some "issues" to get sorted.

I am halfway through fixing my crinkled and stretched door card tops, and will try to,outline how I've got on so far.

I am upgrading speakers and head unit to Blaupunkt Bremen for all the modern connectivity, but retaining a period look, still not yet fitted head unit, too much to do.

With this in mind I started a 'practice, on rear cards first, remove cards, info on the FAQ section on forum, once off, I debated just living with them as they were really stretched and what to do about the window wiper strip that is pinched onto the door card edge??

Eventually bit the bullet, unclip the rubber strip from the metal clips with two gripping teeth, just lift carefully one at a time and it separates, then you can carefully prise the 5-6 metal clips from the back of the metal strip that goes over the vinyl and card edge, I used a small flat blade screwdriver to push the tang down whilst pulling the clip, bit fiddly but works.

How to remove strip from card, I used 2/3 tools from trim removal set that have angled levers, then ran these between back edge of metal strip and door card to,try to open up the channel, needed a couple of pieces of 7 mm mdf strip to put between the back of the door card and tool as I gradually worked it open. Then once opened up a bit, get a bradawl and levered at each end very carefully so as not to bend metal strip, if tight do some more work to open the channel.

Nick your other halfs hairdryer on hot and low blow speed, and using a plastic trim removal tool so you don't tear or cut the vinyl, slowly heat a loose edge, slide the tool under vinyl slowly to loosen. Mine were really bad at both ends, so ended up loosening most of the top of the card but I did leave a few inches in the middle untouched.
Most of the vinyl came off clean, but odd sections pulled wood fibres also, tried gently sanding these off but not much success and then left dust to clear!!!

Turned panel upside down with top of card hanging over table and facing you, clipped some small spring clamps to vinyl edge to try to hold the away from fibreboard door card.

Try to do a few dry runs of how to retension and stretch vinyl back

Evo Stik impact adhesive spread thinly and evenly as possible on both door card and vinyl, I suggest doing one end of the card at a time, let dry for 4-5 mins, then starting from middle section, tension vinyl back over the card edge an inch or so at a time, taking care not to let the loose vinyl stick where it shouldn't.

Do same at other end, I left the end with the door lock pin till last, then done same as before. My vinyl had stretched badly around the lock button, so remove the collar, just push out from behind, I glued the vinyl up to the lock button, then from other end of door card I had to stretch back the vinyl towards the lock button to close the ugly gap around it, this leaves vinyl overlapping behind the button.

Glue both leaving around 15mm without glue, once they have dried, use a razor blade or very sharp Stanley knife and cut cleanly through both layers of vinyl, this should give as near as perfect join as possible, then glue down these ends so they meet together.

Luckily I had some grey water based undercoat, using a cocktail stick, dropped paint into join where needed to fill, clean up carefully.

Hey presto, two door cards with wrinkles almost all gone, how long they will last, who knows!!
I will try to do a full photo step by step breakdown of this for anyone in th future, guidance please for getting photos into these posts?

Cheers
Steve
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Old Oct 26th, 2021, 12:32   #16
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Well, I sold my BMW so this is now officially my daily drive! Having driven it around a couple of days now, there's some things I think need attention as matters of priority:

- The fuel pump is fairly noisy (looking at the original thread, this seems to be a ongoing issue). As I need it to be reliable I'll try to replace it in the near future.

- Bit of a lumpy idle, every now and again it seems to misfire. It's had all new ignition courtesy of @Lixah, apart from the coil. It's not terrible but a bit annoying.

- It doesn't like starting hot! When cold it'll start after a few seconds of cranking- more than a modern car, but I understand that's fairly normal for these? When warm/hot she cranks for ages before catching. Wondering whether it may be the one way valve or FPR?

- Loss of coolant. I checked yesterday and the tank was nearly empty. I've not had a chance to have a good look over yet, but don't think there's excessive steam out of the exhaust and none from the engine bay, so that's a good start!

Very happy with it though, and so's my girlfriend who wasn't a fan of the Beemer's rather firm ride!
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Old Oct 26th, 2021, 12:45   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badger vs Bodgers View Post
Well, I sold my BMW so this is now officially my daily drive! Having driven it around a couple of days now, there's some things I think need attention as matters of priority:

- The fuel pump is fairly noisy (looking at the original thread, this seems to be a ongoing issue). As I need it to be reliable I'll try to replace it in the near future.

- Bit of a lumpy idle, every now and again it seems to misfire. It's had all new ignition courtesy of @Lixah, apart from the coil. It's not terrible but a bit annoying.

- It doesn't like starting hot! When cold it'll start after a few seconds of cranking- more than a modern car, but I understand that's fairly normal for these? When warm/hot she cranks for ages before catching. Wondering whether it may be the one way valve or FPR?

- Loss of coolant. I checked yesterday and the tank was nearly empty. I've not had a chance to have a good look over yet, but don't think there's excessive steam out of the exhaust and none from the engine bay, so that's a good start!

Very happy with it though, and so's my girlfriend who wasn't a fan of the Beemer's rather firm ride!
The coolant loss could be the cause of the hot start problem but have you tried starting "as for flooded engine"?

Push the accelerator to the floor then insert and turn the ignition key to position 3 and hold until it fires.

If hot starting is improved, try the hot start method - foot halfway down on the accelerator, insert and turn the key to start and hold until it fires.

In either case, once it fires, release the key and also release the accelerator gradually to keep the engine at a fast idle for a few seconds until it will happily idle.

An occasional misfire when idling is characteristic of the red block, unless it's a regular rhythmic misfore or is constantly there causing bad idling, i wouldn't worry.

Do you have an LED torch with a dim setting on it? If so, drive it somewhere dark, open the bonnet and switch the torch on dim. Usually dimmable LED torches achieve the reduced output by pulsing the light so in effect you have a strobe light - this helps to spot if you have a stream of coolant coming from a pin hole in a hose as it "freezes" the water droplets that form that stream so you can see them.

Could also be the seal between the water pump and the head, oil cooler coolant pipes or even the expansion tank and/or the hose between the tank and rad - any one of a number of things in fact. Could also be just low on coolant and an air lock working its way out.
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Old Oct 28th, 2021, 19:37   #18
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Someone was giving away a couple of front seats on here...see for sale section!
You do not need an aftermarket ECU to acheive 260-300bhp!! it would never hurt but i feel it is a very expensive solution you don't need...an AFR guage should keep it all in check....
i would recommend a custom map and not generic ebay chips...
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Old Oct 28th, 2021, 22:37   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeman940 View Post
Someone was giving away a couple of front seats on here...see for sale section!
You do not need an aftermarket ECU to acheive 260-300bhp!! it would never hurt but i feel it is a very expensive solution you don't need...an AFR guage should keep it all in check....
i would recommend a custom map and not generic ebay chips...
I'll go check them out

On the aftermarket ECU front it's partly for the better flexibility modern ECU's give and partly because it's a nice challenge. Cost wise, it'll either be a Speeduino (cheap as chips) or the Emerald K6 I've got squirrelled away for another project, so not too bad.

It's a long way down the road anyways - plenty to do first! Unfortunately with work, short days and other commitments I haven't had much time to get cracking yet, but I've got a list of repairs I want to do before I do any mods.

I tried @Laird Scooby's recommendation and pushing the pedal down then starting did seem to help, so hopefully it's the fuel system rather than something more sinister.

On the water leak front I noticed a wet patch beneath the thermostat housing, so that's No.1 suspect at the moment. Driving it around on Wednesday it lost about 1\4 coolant out of the tank, so it's not a small leak unfortunately.

In a related thing I also want to try to sort the temp gauge, as I have no real way of telling if it's overheating at the moment, which worries me.

I won't bore people with a full list of repairs, but will try to add pictures and whatnot as I do them
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Old Oct 31st, 2021, 01:18   #20
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I had a bit of time to spend on the car earlier, so started off by eyeballing the water levels... and it hasn't changed since I topped it up, despite a fair number of miles driven. What I thought was a wet patch below the thermostat is just a bit of oil. No mayo in oil, no oil in water... Guess I'll just try to keep an eye on it for now!

Which leads me onto the broken temp gauge - it only ever reads midway, and I wanted to make sure I don't accidentally overheat the car, so fixing it was a priority. I removed the cluster and inspected for dry solder joints, but it was all good on that front. As an experiment I tried the gauge cluster out of my other 940 and that worked fine!

Now I didn't want to swap the clusters over - the other Volvo is about 70k higher mileage - so I swapped the temperature gauges only, and that seems to have done the job. Inspecting the old gauge there's no obvious damage and it moves freely, so not sure what'd wrong with it.

After that I had enough time to do a couple of minor jobs - a new reverse switch brought the reversing lights back to life, I disconnected the seatbelt warning lead so I don't get a horrendous ticking every time I turn the ignition on, and I replaced a non functioning horn with another off the other 940. They are equally crusty, however, so new ones will be ordered.

Finally I spotted something a bit odd - it looks a lot like a horn - below and to the left of the expansion bottle in the picture. Is it part of the (currently non-functional) alarm system?!?
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