Volvo 960 Estate. Spares/repair.

[Buzz1964]

This was my favorite 9 series but moving house and loosing workshop meant that come mot time I had to lay it up. Brought a 940 estate from a friend. Fast forward 5 years and I've built a new shed but in my opinion the 960 is now terminally riddled with the dreaded tin worm, both front wings and several areas underneath. Pity coz it still starts and runs fine. Just under 193K miles.
I'm looking for £250 ono. Down side it will need trailer and I'm located near Lampeter in beautiful West Wales. If you are interested it is best to text me on 07970 514999. Going deaf so sometimes don't hear the phone.

[rocketron2]

wat colour is the interiour?

condition of drivers set???

[jonnyf90]

Sad to see the corrosion has started!
If you don't sell the whole car, would you be open to breaking for parts?
Looking for a set of injectors for mine as I'm chasing a PITA misfire.

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by jonnyf90

Sad to see the corrosion has started!
If you don't sell the whole car, would you be open to breaking for parts?
Looking for a set of injectors for mine as I'm chasing a PITA misfire.

Cheers

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165032610868

Pretty certain you'll find those are the later version of the injectors you have in yours. I found when i needed a set for my 760, the injectors quoted for replacement on the Bosch site also serviced the 960 and the Vaux Omega V6. They also benefit from being a 4-pintle instead of single pintle design.

Of course if the OP is willing to break the car as you've already asked him it would be rude not to continue but if they've been sat doing nothing for several years they'd probably need a refurb/test before fitting in any case. For that, i'd suggest :

https://www.emeraldm3d.com/emerald-s...ditioning.html

The prices are per injector for refurb but why not get a set of NOID lights and confirm every injector is getting a signal (it's full-group/batch-fire injection so they all fire at the same time) and also check your coil-packs and the wiring to them as they've been known to cause problems on the straight 6 engines.

[jonnyf90]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165032610868

Pretty certain you'll find those are the later version of the injectors you have in yours. I found when i needed a set for my 760, the injectors quoted for replacement on the Bosch site also serviced the 960 and the Vaux Omega V6. They also benefit from being a 4-pintle instead of single pintle design.

Of course if the OP is willing to break the car as you've already asked him it would be rude not to continue but if they've been sat doing nothing for several years they'd probably need a refurb/test before fitting in any case. For that, i'd suggest :

https://www.emeraldm3d.com/emerald-s...ditioning.html

The prices are per injector for refurb but why not get a set of NOID lights and confirm every injector is getting a signal (it's full-group/batch-fire injection so they all fire at the same time) and also check your coil-packs and the wiring to them as they've been known to cause problems on the straight 6 engines.

Cheers man, great info re Omega injectors. Certainly cheaper than anything with Volvo in the title

They're definitely getting signal as the misfire is only at idle. With normal driving, it's fine.

Someone elsewhere suggested intake manifold gasket but who knows.

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by jonnyf90

Cheers man, great info re Omega injectors. Certainly cheaper than anything with Volvo in the title

They're definitely getting signal as the misfire is only at idle. With normal driving, it's fine.

Someone elsewhere suggested intake manifold gasket but who knows.

Cheers

Is it a rhythmic misfire and/or does it take a short time after dropping to idle for the misfire to appear?

[jonnyf90]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Is it a rhythmic misfire and/or does it take a short time after dropping to idle for the misfire to appear?

Yeah, so when first starting and tickover is 1200rpm or so, it's not noticeable, only when it reverts to 800 it starts shaking, definitely not the smoothness of the 6 that it should be.

I went through and removed each coil in turn which made no difference to idle, and all the plugs look fine and "equally" coloured.

Not sure if replacing the whole thing with a 3.0 from a scrapper would be a better bet. 170bhp isn't enough anymore

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by jonnyf90

Yeah, so when first starting and tickover is 1200rpm or so, it's not noticeable, only when it reverts to 800 it starts shaking, definitely not the smoothness of the 6 that it should be.

I went through and removed each coil in turn which made no difference to idle, and all the plugs look fine and "equally" coloured.

Not sure if replacing the whole thing with a 3.0 from a scrapper would be a better bet. 170bhp isn't enough anymore

Cheers

Removing each coil pack in turn made no difference to the idle when it was misfiring?

In that case, it's not a rhythmic misfire and chances are, it's not an injector either. If it idles ok at first after driving then starts getting worse, i would suspect the hydraulic lifters are "bleeding down" and/or sticky due to being dirty. Try adding 0.5L of either Carlube ATF-U, NAPA MV or a similar ATF to the engine oil. It won't have an instant effect, it can take a while before things improve.
I had a very similar thing on my Jeep Cherokee, after driving it would idle smoothly at first then get progressively lumpier. Also when it was cold it had 3 sticky lifters that sounded like 3 pile drivers inside the engine!

I added about a litre of ATF-U to the engine (bigger sump capacity, hence more ATF) and drove it. After about 1000 miles, it always idled smoothly, even from cold where it fired first touch on all 6 cylinders with no knock from any tappets. There were other benefits too but i suspect you'll find those if you add some ATF to the engine oil in yours.

[jonnyf90]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Removing each coil pack in turn made no difference to the idle when it was misfiring?

In that case, it's not a rhythmic misfire and chances are, it's not an injector either. If it idles ok at first after driving then starts getting worse, i would suspect the hydraulic lifters are "bleeding down" and/or sticky due to being dirty. Try adding 0.5L of either Carlube ATF-U, NAPA MV or a similar ATF to the engine oil. It won't have an instant effect, it can take a while before things improve.
I had a very similar thing on my Jeep Cherokee, after driving it would idle smoothly at first then get progressively lumpier. Also when it was cold it had 3 sticky lifters that sounded like 3 pile drivers inside the engine!

I added about a litre of ATF-U to the engine (bigger sump capacity, hence more ATF) and drove it. After about 1000 miles, it always idled smoothly, even from cold where it fired first touch on all 6 cylinders with no knock from any tappets. There were other benefits too but i suspect you'll find those if you add some ATF to the engine oil in yours.

Yes will give this a go as the ATF sorted out an annoying "tick" that it had about 2 years ago while stuck in traffic.
I changed the oil and filter only 800 miles ago and seemed to make no difference whatsoever so will have to investigate further if the ATF doesn't help.

Cheers

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by jonnyf90

Yes will give this a go as the ATF sorted out an annoying "tick" that it had about 2 years ago while stuck in traffic.
I changed the oil and filter only 800 miles ago and seemed to make no difference whatsoever so will have to investigate further if the ATF doesn't help.

Cheers

I have a routine on both my beasts, only one of which has hydraulic tappets where i drain the old oil, fit the new filter and sump plug then the first 0.5L of fresh oil that goes in is ATF followed by the balance in 10W40 semi synthetic.

It helps free sticking piston rings as well and keeps the engine clean internally as well as keeping rubber seals in good order and reviving borderline ones. The emissions came down year on year in all the cars i've done this with, power and economy were improved, engines smoother and quieter and so on and in my Rover which is known for ticky tappets shortly after start up, the engine is quiet unless it's near the time it needs an oil change, at which point it starts to give ticky tappets for a short period during warm up.

It works well for me, the 760 is 6L and my other is 4.5L so that's 10.5L total. I need 4L of 10W40 for my other one which leaves me a spare litre and by the time i've used a litre of ATF split equally between the two, i end up with 0.5L of 10W40 for topping up etc.