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Changing Turbo on XC90 2007 185 HELP

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Old May 3rd, 2017, 13:48   #11
Simon Jones
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My thought is that if the car is not driven in way which is 'sympathetic' to the characteristics of the DPF then it will end up doing some expensive damage, of which high oil consumption could be a side effect. If a full regeneration has not taken place for 18 months then the DPF is likely to be in a bad way.

Take it for a blast up the M4 to give it half a chance & then just see whether there is an improvement. Maybe worth considering a different fuel type such as petrol with LPG conversion if the main purpose of the vehicle is for short trips.

As a side note, keep an eye on the oil consumption especially if the turbo is drawing oil out. Friend of mine has just had a VW TDi engine destroy itself as the turbo sucked all the oil out of the engine and it seized.

Last edited by Simon Jones; May 3rd, 2017 at 13:53.
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Old May 9th, 2017, 08:37   #12
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Another update.

Fitted a new Bosch O2 sensor

I now have no fault codes and the car is still playing up.

I am considering the DPF is shot because I cannot get it to complete a regen although It will get down to a reasonable level but within a few miles I get soot filter full and limp mode.

Next job will be to remove DPF and blast through with pressure washer
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Old May 9th, 2017, 09:02   #13
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Originally Posted by leeleefocus View Post
Another update.

Fitted a new Bosch O2 sensor

I now have no fault codes and the car is still playing up.

I am considering the DPF is shot because I cannot get it to complete a regen although It will get down to a reasonable level but within a few miles I get soot filter full and limp mode.

Next job will be to remove DPF and blast through with pressure washer
You cant clean a DPF with a jet wash , you will see why if you look at how it is constructed , it is completely different to a Catalytic converter .

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/di...-pictures-tdi/
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Old May 9th, 2017, 14:20   #14
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Originally Posted by Clan View Post
You cant clean a DPF with a jet wash , you will see why if you look at how it is constructed , it is completely different to a Catalytic converter .

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/di...-pictures-tdi/
Clan is spot on, you can't 'wash out' a DPF. This company's website is very informative on all things DPF related, I'm told that they are excellent.

http://www.dpfcleaningsolutions.com/
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Old May 22nd, 2017, 21:10   #15
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Ok some potentially positive news

Word of warning if you easily get bored turn off now.

Had a few hours spare today so I started to remove the DPF. This has clearly not been removed in the life of the car as there were little cones of rust where the nuts once lived. I like a challenge and in my time have removed some fairly hideous looking nuts and bolts but this was grinder time straight away. Luckily the front three nuts securing DPF to flexi pipe were in ok ish condition. Once I had ground off the two nuts from the rear of the DPF I proceeded to drill out the studs so I could just fit some nuts and bolts.

DPF is now out and on the floor. Time to remove temperature sensor which comes out with ease.

Had a look into both ends of the filter and it looks surprisingly clean but I know there is some nasty's hidden inside.

Karcher at the ready but I wet the filter both ends first so I don't send plumes of soot everywhere. First hit with the Karcher and luckily the soot was suppressed but unfortunately by wetting it first it had turned into a nice black sludge which erupted out the top of the filter and covered me in *hite. 1 hour of blasting one end then the other at about 30 second intervals. Plenty of black rubbish which is obviously the soot but there was also lots of ash(little white flakes) I say an hour but I just kept going until water was running clear from both ends. I then felt the need to chuck some sort of chemical down it. Heard of coke being used but that involved an overnight soak. I contemplated an oven cleaner but eventually settled on Meguiars Super Degreaser. I chose this because I believe it is an alkaline cleaner which I thought would help shift more soot. Glugged about a litre of this into the filter and let it sit for 20 mins. More pressure washing and you could eat your dinner off the inside of the metal housing. I then shoved the hose pipe in the outlet end and let water run through for half an hour.

At this point I felt confident I had shifted a lot of the rubbish from inside the filter so I thought I would blow through (with my breath not an airline) the filter and see how free flowing it was. Still felt restrictive but I didn’t check what it was like before the cleaning so had no comparison. I was not happy with this and was desperately looking around the garage to see if I could cobble something together to shove a load of air or water through in a big pulse. 30 minutes passed and apart from coming up with an idea to fabricate a pressurized container with a large outlet and ball valve that I could connect to the DPF to give it a high pressure and high volume blast of air or water I had a little brain wave.

Apologies but more waffle.

I actually had a good idea. I was racking my brains trying to think how I could make something but there it was staring me in the face. I’ve got a whacking great big pump sat on my driveway and it’s got a Peugeot badge on the front. Bit of bodging and I connected up the DPF in reverse to the exhaust system on the Peugeot. Couple of minutes at 3000rpm with a few blasts upto 5000rpm and a whole load more crap came firing out of the DPF. As an added bonus this also dries out the internals of the DPF. If you try this do not have anything within 15 feet of the DPF. Ask me how I know this.

Bolted it all back together and connected up VIDA. Must have been a little moisture remaining in the DPF because it started at 5hpa and after a few minutes it settled at 1hpa.

I will give long term reports if this works or not but for me the filter was a dead loss so this was worth a try. Even if I have to do this once a year I can live with that.

Test drive tomorrow

Next will be the full strip and clean of the inlet manifold, EGR and so on. Time is hard to find but I aim to do it this week.
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Old Jun 10th, 2017, 10:15   #16
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18 days on from the clean and not once had soot filter full message. No limp mode either.

Turbo spools up quicker and car is more responsive. The car drives exactly as it should.

Still burning oil which I now suspect is not turbo but worn rings as per some other members recently discovering with their 185's. I am using the low saps oil but I am expecting dpf issues again with how much oil is burning.
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Old Jun 12th, 2017, 08:04   #17
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I'm burning two litres in 500 miles and I don't have a DPF issue (yet). Its been like this for the last 6000 miles now.
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Old Nov 27th, 2021, 21:42   #18
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Originally Posted by Rooster View Post
Yeah done a few in past,

The 7 bolt angle gears are quiet tight altho last turbo me and another lad did we didn't take angle gear off and just did it all from top
Are you sure that was on an XC90????
I have just changed an XC90 D5 turbo and there is no way it can be done from the top. The angle gear has to come out to access the lower turbo nut and many other things.

I gave it some thought and wondered if there may be a slight possibility to drop the engine mounts etc and swivel the whole engine a long way forward. This would have to be done to get enough physical clearance to lift the turbo out from the top even if you could unbolt it.
Maybe if you remove the entire EGR system, unbolt the exhaust manifold, then "try" to remove all the manifold studs, you may possibly be able slide the turbo up and out after disconnecting everything BUT,,,,, you would not be able to disconnect the oil drain pipe nor the water outlet pipe from the turbo as they are both completely blocked by the angle gear.

I was quoted a minimum of £600 labour to change the turbo from an Indie! They also said the cost could increase if things broke etc.
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Old Nov 27th, 2021, 22:16   #19
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Thats nice. They break things and charge you for their ineptitude.
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Old Nov 27th, 2021, 23:31   #20
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Haha, it sometimes seems that way but rusty exhaust parts etc, perished rubber pipes, many are ready to fall apart and any attempt to disassemble and they break so I get where they are coming from. Volvo use good parts so most things come apart but I once had a CV joint so rusted into the hub that nothing would remove it. I was doing the job myself and had to replace the hub assembly. A 20 ton press and heat would not shift it. I spent hours on that. Imagine a garage trying to bill the customer in that situation. The other side came apart really easy.
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