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Disconnecting the Batteries

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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 13:13   #1
TheMenace
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Default Disconnecting the Batteries

Slowly working through a string of issues on my V50 1.6D Drive (egr, dpf Ė the usual). I have VIDA but, annoyingly, about half the time it will not communicate with the ECM (another issue I need to look at).

I need to do some work on the climate control module and CEM, which needs the battery disconnected so as not to trigger the alarm.

Does disconnecting the main battery also disconnect the secondary battery, or does that have to be disconnected separately to completely cut power to the system?
And will disconnecting the battery for 10 or so minutes reset the ECM (clear the codes)?

Thanks
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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 15:01   #2
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Originally Posted by TheMenace View Post
Slowly working through a string of issues on my V50 1.6D Drive (egr, dpf Ė the usual). I have VIDA but, annoyingly, about half the time it will not communicate with the ECM (another issue I need to look at).

I need to do some work on the climate control module and CEM, which needs the battery disconnected so as not to trigger the alarm.

Does disconnecting the main battery also disconnect the secondary battery, or does that have to be disconnected separately to completely cut power to the system?
And will disconnecting the battery for 10 or so minutes reset the ECM (clear the codes)?

Thanks
When using VIDA you must have a support power supply on the car battery to keep the voltage up to 14.8 volts or near. some battery chargers may have the capacity to do this, a lot of modern ones will not. Remember all the modules on the car will be drawing current and the headlamps .

No you don't need to do anything with the support battery , it is only engaged when the car is in STOP mode of the Start/Start system.

No , codes will not be erased when you disconnect the ECU . .
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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 19:02   #3
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Thanks Clan, thatís very helpful. It would explain why my Autel can still read generic powertrain codes when VIDA fails.

Tried it with a charger this evening, still no luck communicating with the ECM, but I think my main battery is on its way out, it was reading 11.7V after a drive today and the charger struggled to get it above 12.3. From what you say this would be why VIDA sometimes canít find the ECM Ė the weather at the moment certainly wonít help either!

Iíll pick up a new battery and continue my fault finding, often a good fresh battery is enough to drive out a load of electrical gremlins on its own.

Is it wise to stick with a Genuine Volvo battery or will it be happy with another decent quality brand?

Cheers
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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 23:59   #4
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Default Battery

I can't comment on your main points, but I've just replaced the OEM battery on my 2010 C30. I chose a Bosch which came with a 5 yr warranty, bought it from Tayna who were excellent. The OEM battery had Made in Germany on it, so for all I know it is unbranded Bosch anyway. Obvs early days, but no problem fitting it and at £113 a lot cheaper than you'll pay for a Volvo branded battery.
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 00:19   #5
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Thanks Clan, thatís very helpful. It would explain why my Autel can still read generic powertrain codes when VIDA fails.

Tried it with a charger this evening, still no luck communicating with the ECM, but I think my main battery is on its way out, it was reading 11.7V after a drive today and the charger struggled to get it above 12.3. From what you say this would be why VIDA sometimes canít find the ECM Ė the weather at the moment certainly wonít help either!

Iíll pick up a new battery and continue my fault finding, often a good fresh battery is enough to drive out a load of electrical gremlins on its own.

Is it wise to stick with a Genuine Volvo battery or will it be happy with another decent quality brand?

Cheers
yes you need at least 14v with the charger on for the communication to work reliably .
Regarding battery
get a quote from a dealer parts dept for the part , Excluding fitting . , they are very competitively priced . ...
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 00:21   #6
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I can't comment on your main points, but I've just replaced the OEM battery on my 2010 C30. I chose a Bosch which came with a 5 yr warranty, bought it from Tayna who were excellent. The OEM battery had Made in Germany on it, so for all I know it is unbranded Bosch anyway. Obvs early days, but no problem fitting it and at £113 a lot cheaper than you'll pay for a Volvo branded battery.
not necessarily get a volvo quote for supply only , 👍
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 15:57   #7
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not necessarily get a volvo quote for supply only , 👍
Volvo main dealer provided mine when i needed one, cost Less than "other brands" ,,excluding el cheapo pants types from gawd knows where and as the battery In the car was a volvo one 8years old ,,,
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 16:35   #8
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The 'genuine' main battery I bought from Volvo a few weeks ago was only £99 (Inc VAT)
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 19:36   #9
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You weren't kidding!
£130 for a genuine AGM Stop-Start battery from my local dealer.
Picking it up next time I go past.
Probably wouldn't even have considered going to the dealer had I not posted here.

... if only the genuine EGRs were so reasonably priced...
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 22:32   #10
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You weren't kidding!
£130 for a genuine AGM Stop-Start battery from my local dealer.
Picking it up next time I go past.
Probably wouldn't even have considered going to the dealer had I not posted here.

... if only the genuine EGRs were so reasonably priced...
They probably are if you compare them to other cars .... its quite a complex device and expensive metals ...
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