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740 poor running and stalling

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Old Nov 14th, 2021, 18:41   #101
Laird Scooby
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Currently trying to loosen the nut that attaches the injector to the fuel line, it’s not reverse threaded is it? I know you didn’t say anything about reverse thread in that thread that you linked but just want to be sure because if not they’re on very tight.
No, not reverse threaded. Likely to be tight because the garage probably did them up with a windy ratchet, find yourself a 6-sided socket and a dent ratchet and you should be able to shift them.
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Old Nov 14th, 2021, 19:41   #102
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I managed to get them off in the end I just took off the plastic covers first. The plastic cover for injector 4 actually came off with the big O ring attached to the inside and the one that goes on the outside of the plastic cover is sort of molded to the cover as you can see in the photos.





Those "O" rings are shot to hell - all 8 of them! Need replacing before refitting the injectors!
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Old Nov 14th, 2021, 20:25   #103
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Those "O" rings are shot to hell - all 8 of them! Need replacing before refitting the injectors!
Probably going to get some new plastic holders along with the o rings. Part number on these original ones is 463864, this still the correct number to quote?
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Old Nov 14th, 2021, 20:44   #104
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Probably going to get some new plastic holders along with the o rings. Part number on these original ones is 463864, this still the correct number to quote?
Yup https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...ronic/1024025/
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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 18:17   #105
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Earlier I got my dad to take the injectors out and put them into a jar to see if there is an equal amount of fuel coming out since for some reason we hadn't done that ourselves yet.

Here are the results after turning over the engine for 5ish seconds:

Injector 1 = About half a cm of fuel
Injector 2 = Nothing
Injector 3 = About half a cm of fuel
Injector 4 = Didn't stop spraying fuel until the car was turned off

Tomorrow he's going to remove injector 2 and then do the same thing to see whether it is the distributor or fuel line that is the problem.

I know it's K-Jet which means continuous so does that mean that without the injector there fuel should be continuously flowing out?
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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 21:15   #106
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Those "O" rings are shot to hell - all 8 of them! Need replacing before refitting the injectors!
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Originally Posted by griston64 View Post
Earlier I got my dad to take the injectors out and put them into a jar to see if there is an equal amount of fuel coming out since for some reason we hadn't done that ourselves yet.

Here are the results after turning over the engine for 5ish seconds:

Injector 1 = About half a cm of fuel
Injector 2 = Nothing
Injector 3 = About half a cm of fuel
Injector 4 = Didn't stop spraying fuel until the car was turned off

Tomorrow he's going to remove injector 2 and then do the same thing to see whether it is the distributor or fuel line that is the problem.

I know it's K-Jet which means continuous so does that mean that without the injector there fuel should be continuously flowing out?
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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 21:24   #107
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Originally Posted by Beadybc View Post
Earlier I got my dad to take the injectors out and put them into a jar to see if there is an equal amount of fuel coming out since for some reason we hadn't done that ourselves yet.

Here are the results after turning over the engine for 5ish seconds:

Injector 1 = About half a cm of fuel
Injector 2 = Nothing
Injector 3 = About half a cm of fuel
Injector 4 = Didn't stop spraying fuel until the car was turned off

Tomorrow he's going to remove injector 2 and then do the same thing to see whether it is the distributor or fuel line that is the problem.

I know it's K-Jet which means continuous so does that mean that without the injector there fuel should be continuously flowing out?
That's about the size of it. Sounds like #4 is stuck with dirt in the open position and #2 is stuck with dirt in the closed position.

As long as the pressure is above a certain level (i think i put it somewhere else in the thread) all injectors should spray equally and continuously and once the pressure drops, all should stop about the same time. Without the injectors fuel will flow continuously from the fuel lines with the pumps running.
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Old Dec 6th, 2021, 16:13   #108
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That's about the size of it. Sounds like #4 is stuck with dirt in the open position and #2 is stuck with dirt in the closed position.

As long as the pressure is above a certain level (i think i put it somewhere else in the thread) all injectors should spray equally and continuously and once the pressure drops, all should stop about the same time. Without the injectors fuel will flow continuously from the fuel lines with the pumps running.
So here's the current situation. I have replaced the injectors with new ones. The Injectors on the car had the part number 0437502015 (014) so we got new ones that were the same. They are all spraying when the ignition is turned and properly shutting off when the fuel pump stops, however the engine is still flooding. It is very hard to get the engine to start but I did manage to get the engine started the other day however it was very spluttery and I had to keep revving it to keep the engine alive. It put out so much smoke that the entire street was foggy and smelling strongly of fuel, eventually it just died. Woke up the next day to see the garage door looking like this:





The injectors:



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Old Dec 6th, 2021, 17:06   #109
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I suspect someone has played with the mixture adjusting screw on the fuel distributor to keep it running due to the clogging injectors. Also check the cold start injector isn't staying on past 8 seconds as that will flood the engine.

Bear in mind it could be burning off previous excess fuel from aborted start attempts.

As a first "go/no-go" test of the cold start injector, i would suggest getting it started from cold then pulling the plug off the cold start injector - squeeze the wire clip and pull the plug away from the injector at the same time.

If you locate the mixture screw on the fuel distributor, use an Allen key to make the mixture leaner once it's warmed up a bit until it sounds "happiest" once hot and idling. Bit of a Heath-Robinson method but should get you to a paoint where you are able to adjust the mixture in the MoT bay. Once you've done that, reconnecting the cold start injector plug will show whether it has a permanent feed or not, if it does, a quick solution would be to install a pushbutton switch on the cabin that you can press for cold starts and release once running.

I am guessing the important bit here is to get it MoT'd/drivable so while these methods aren't ideal, they will get you up and running and the rest can be sorted properly after you have that vital bit of paper from the MoT station.
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Old Dec 6th, 2021, 19:41   #110
Beadybc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
I suspect someone has played with the mixture adjusting screw on the fuel distributor to keep it running due to the clogging injectors. Also check the cold start injector isn't staying on past 8 seconds as that will flood the engine.

Bear in mind it could be burning off previous excess fuel from aborted start attempts.

As a first "go/no-go" test of the cold start injector, i would suggest getting it started from cold then pulling the plug off the cold start injector - squeeze the wire clip and pull the plug away from the injector at the same time.

If you locate the mixture screw on the fuel distributor, use an Allen key to make the mixture leaner once it's warmed up a bit until it sounds "happiest" once hot and idling. Bit of a Heath-Robinson method but should get you to a paoint where you are able to adjust the mixture in the MoT bay. Once you've done that, reconnecting the cold start injector plug will show whether it has a permanent feed or not, if it does, a quick solution would be to install a pushbutton switch on the cabin that you can press for cold starts and release once running.

I am guessing the important bit here is to get it MoT'd/drivable so while these methods aren't ideal, they will get you up and running and the rest can be sorted properly after you have that vital bit of paper from the MoT station.
Yeah you're correct about the MoT part, completely forgot about that screw you mentioned before I was struggling to think of new ways to adjust the mixture. Cold start valve came up when searching for a fix but no where did it say how to test whether that was the problem so cheers for that.
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740, 940, b200e, stalling, throttle lag


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