Wanted - Cheap Phase 1 T4

[mutant]

Plugs are OEM, changed last January. Always run on V-Power since I've had it, not been remapped. There is a slight jerkiness between 3-4k and then just seems like a lack of power, but as I say I've been out in a T4 before I got this one that was really bad (missing and real jerky) and it's nothing like that. I noticed the odd bit of hesitation before the cambelt tensioner went, but it still seemed to be boosting properly at 4k so I thought nothing of it. I had thought it could have damaged valves when the tensioner went, but then again wouldn't damaged valves result in low to no compression in that cylinder? It's fine and still quite nippy not misfiring or hesitating badly under normal driving, just when I'm giving it full throttle.

Thanks for the help mate, I know little to nothing about cars as it is, only engines I'm familiar with are 16v golfs (and then it's only cos they were always bloody breaking!)

Anyway, I'm hoping it's a boost leak somewhere, or something equally cheap to fix!

[Enigma666]

Well, hesitation could be lots of things, V-Power is a good start though

Ok things to check....

Boost Control Solenoid - you can remove this from the system and try running the car (not overly advisable but ok for testing)
Try turning the traction control off (assuming you have it)
Clean the throttle body
Check all hoses for connections, make sure they are tight and done up correctly, then remove each one and flex them checking for any signs of deterioration.
It 'could' be the MAF.....I assume you are getting no codes at all? (Check engine lights)
Another option (highly unlikely by the sounds of it) it could all be nerves of breaking something

Hope that helps....let me know how you get on

[mutant]

Boost Control Solenoid - Where is this located, and is it safe to give it a quick spirited drive with it disconnected?
Traction Control - Will disable it later and see if that makes any difference, but the only time I get the light on the dash is when it's stopping the wheels spinnig up.
I'll clean the throttle body, MAF and check hoses and air filter next weekend - I've got a boost gauge on the way so I'll plumb that in and see where I stand.
Also I'm going to try it on a full tank tonight (did seem to be a bit better last week when I filled up, but that could be in my head) to rule out the fuel pump pickup.
I've had no engine light come on ever, except on turning key before starting it.
The nerves thing - I wish that was the case, but my fingers are crossed it's a cheap and easy fix!

Thanks, Lee

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by mutant

Boost Control Solenoid - Where is this located, and is it safe to give it a quick spirited drive with it disconnected?

Located at the back of the aif filter housing. Disconnect by pluging out the electrical connector.

Originally Posted by mutant

Traction Control - Will disable it later and see if that makes any difference, but the only time I get the light on the dash is when it's stopping the wheels spinnig up.

Turn this off by pressing and holding the DSA button until the light stays lit in the dash...this confirms it's turned off.

Originally Posted by mutant

I'll clean the throttle body, MAF and check hoses and air filter next weekend - I've got a boost gauge on the way so I'll plumb that in and see where I stand.

After reading several reviews of the benifit of cleaning the MAF I decided to clean my MAF. I just sprayed the resistor with electrical contact cleaner and allowed it to dry out but I seem to have developed a splutter on boost. So be warned!

I hope nothing got bent when the belt went? Is it reving through the rev range...4..5k rpm?

[mutant]

I meant the DSA doesn't seem to be dodgy like some others I've read about, I leave it on but only time it does anything (and the light flashes on the dash to say it is doing) is when the wheels are spinning up.

Might try a new MAF, will see what everything else does first.

I hope nothing got damaged internally, but as I was driving and heard the noise I guessed the belt was about to go, after I got home it went when I tried to turn it over (didn't go while i was driving though). Would have thought that if it had damaged internals there'd be a loss of compression and therefore a misfire all the time, but then again I'm no mechanic, I could be wrong.

Yeah it rev's all the way through to 6.5k, just feels a lot flatter at full boost in 3rd, still quite nippy if I'm not giving it full throttle, and still gets to 100 quick enough (on a private road) but nowhere near as quick as it did or should!

Thanks
Lee

[mutant]

Quick update - checked the air filter today, not particularly clogged up so not that, makes no difference with DSA turned on or off, and also makes no difference having an empty tank or full tank of petrol.

Got a boost gauge today, will try fitting that and checking if it's a boost leak, although i had a quick fumble about and all of the pipework seems ok.

Need to go and get some hosing for the gauge, any ideas where i can get similar rubber hose off the manifold so I don't have to cut into it? If not I'll have to just splice it, but as Enigma666 noted I'd rather be able to return it to standard.

Thanks
Lee

[Enigma666]

Fuel pipe works well mate, failing that some silicon off the net (ebay or alikes) and get a straight connector then just pop one end off, add the connector, plumb in the boost gauge to that, then T-piece off that bit to your guage and stock lines...hope that makes sense.

So you go OEM --> Joiner --> Silicone (or similar) --> T-Piece ---> Gauge (one side) Oem the other

[mutant]

Hey I'm not sure what you mean. Get an extra piece of OEM pipe or cut a section off and use a straight connector to join them back up? Any idea what size the pipe is im joining onto? The gauge is 4mm i think, hose off manifold looks a bit bigger than that.

Thanks
Lee

[Enigma666]

Not sure tbh mate, I basically meant get a joiner and remove one end of the oem hose and plug into that, then T-piece of a short expansion piece of hose

Jeez that doesn't make sense either lol

Ok...instead of cutting the OEM hose, take the OEM on off one end, then plug into that.....based on the T-Piece you will get with your gauge get the same size connector. Internal diameter of the pipe is 3mm or 4mm I think....doesn't really matter as long as the straight piece fits both ends...oh and jubilee clips, use them to clamp the pipes in place.
Shame you're not more local I could have met up and done this with you

Pm me if you want and I will give you my number if you wanna talk it all through

[mutant]

So the short expansion of hose - use a piece of the silicone hose I get for the boost gauge? Think I'm with ya anyway. How much should I use after the gauge (the expansion bit) and should it be close to inlet manifold? Sorry, never had a car with a turbo before this and I've tried to keep out of the engine bay, too many pipes and wires haha.

Cheers, will try do it next weekend.

Lee