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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Rough Idle solution?Views : 10374 Replies : 39Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 2nd, 2021, 17:38 | #21 |
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Aug 2nd, 2021, 17:41 | #22 | |
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The old seals/shaft were well worn and needed replacing anyway. I could have bought the 3 special tools needed but couldn’t justify the extra £100+ for a once off job. I was thinking there may have been an issue with the temperature compensator, I only cleaned it and installed it with new seals without fiddling with it. Overhauling the carb, 123 distributer, new coil, replacing leaking break booster, new hoses, head off, cleaned & lapped valves, decarbed the cylinders, 2mm head gasket improved the idling but didn’t cure it. The only thing that’s worked is sticking my finger in the hose and like magic she runs smooth and steady @ 700rpm Last edited by bdhurley; Aug 2nd, 2021 at 17:44. |
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Aug 2nd, 2021, 18:01 | #23 | |
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Aug 2nd, 2021, 18:17 | #24 | |
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When you say you block the hose from the filler cap, did you also block the manifold nipple? Maybe a couple of pics of your setup might help.
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Aug 2nd, 2021, 18:18 | #25 |
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As a bit of a Hale Mary suggestion, try clamping the line from the manifold to the port on the distributor to make the vacuum advance function in the distributor inactive. Ignition timing affects engine speed - modern ECUs advance and retard ignition to stabilize the idle speed. If you already have some small idle speed fluctuations causing changes in manifold pressure the distributor may be picking those up and amplifying them by changing the timing which makes the speed fluctuations worse.
If clamping the vacuum line improves things, your problem may be related to the advance curve being used in the 123 distributor. You may be able to operate without the vacuum advance function with a slight sacrifice in your fuel consumption or you may be able to resolve the problem by selecting different advance setting. Easy to do and doesn't cost anything to try. |
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Aug 2nd, 2021, 18:59 | #26 | |
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It ran horrible for a number of reasons when I got it. The engine and trans mounts were completely gone, the break booster was whistling and sucking in air. The carb throttle shaft was worn flopping around and a carb and dripping petrol from the cold start. I used a B1CC (for 3573 carb) needle from Burlen and their rebuild kit. I fixed the cold start (choke) leak by polishing the disk surfaces and putting a small ‘o’-ring on the inside of the shaft as there was nothing in the rebuild kit for it. By blocking the hose, I mean pulling it off the fill cap and plugging the end with my finger. There are no vac leaks on the hose or at the manifold nipple. A smaller orifice in the breather nipple on the manifold might help, looks to be about 3mm or 4mm... maybe make a little disk with a 2mm hole and place is inside. |
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Aug 2nd, 2021, 19:09 | #27 | |
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 17:03 | #28 |
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The hose from the oil filler cap should go to the air filter. Clean air enters the crankcase from the filter. If you have it going to the inlet manifold the engine sees it as a massive air leak.
The nipple on the manifold with the restrictor should route across to the side ear just behind the fuel pump. That hose should have a one way valve just above the ear. In this cross pipe there usually is a T piece that runs a hose to your servo. Check all of the illustrations in the workshop manual, hand book or what ever you have. This is a common problem. You showed evidence of it in your first post when you mention clamping off the hose from the oil filler cap. Go back to square one and correct your hose routing. |
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 17:36 | #29 | |
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 17:37 | #30 | |
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On my B20E there are separate ports for the connection to the brake booster and the PCV system (with different nipples on those ports). Later carb manifolds also had separate ports so no requirement for a Tee to the brake servo. |
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