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850/x70 S1 Articles How to's and step by step guides on a specific repair or modification to a Volvo 850/70 car. |
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850 Oil ChangeViews : 26545 Replies : 0Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Allons-y!
Last Online: Jun 8th, 2020 15:32
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Winchester
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Volvo 850 Oil Change
First things first, get together all the tools and parts you will need. ![]() Parts: 7 litres of oil (6 for the non-turbo cars) Oil filter Sump plug washer ![]() You may not need the sump plug washer, when I changed my oil it was still perfectly fine but for the sake of a quid I say change it anyway. What oil to use is a debate which has been gone into again and again and I'm not going to go over old ground again here, you pays your money you takes your choice. I decided to go for a generic 5W40 Fully Synthetic oil, it meets all the necessary standards for the T5 engine and was good value. ![]() Tools: 17mm socket for the sump plug Oil filter remover (or a big screwdriver if you're feeling brutal) Torque wrench Set of axle stands and a trolley jack / set of ramps Wheel chocks Waste oil container Plenty of rags/kitchen roll/etc First get the car properly supported, to put it subtly you're going to be working under it and you don't want to be killed...... First thing to be aware of is if you have lowered the car access for the jack is a little bit tight so be careful when sliding it under the car or you could snag something. Position the jack under the front subframe and lift the car just high enough to get the axle stand in place. Gently lower the car onto the stand. ![]() Repeat the process at the other side of the car. ![]() Once the stands are in place chock the rear wheels. Pieces of wood or a half brick will do nearly as well as a set of chocks. ![]() Just in case I also left the jack in place under the subframe just touching the car. It wasn't actually taking any load - as the load is now equally spread across the axle stands if the jack takes any load then you are possibly making the car less stable. ![]() Now the actual oil change. First run the car for at least five minutes or so to get some warmth into the oil. Even better would be to change the oil immediately after a run. This not only makes the oil thinner which means it flows out of the car more quickly but it means that more of the impurities we want rid of will be in suspension in the oil. The engine will now be at least warm if not hot and the exhaust won't be something you want to touch. Take care! ![]() Using the 17mm socket turn the sump plug just until it moves. Remember : Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey. Once you have freed the sump plug you can turn it by hand. ![]() Turn it carefully until you feel the plug coming loose then be ready to move the plug and your hand away quickly or you'll get a stream of hot oil running up your arm. Also make sure you have your waste oil container in place. ![]() The oil will initially come out with some force and would hit the ground about a foot to half a foot behind the sump plug so keep this in mind when positioning your container. As the oil empties out of the car the flow will slacken off quite quickly so keep checking and be ready to move your container as necessary. ![]() Remove the oil filler cap and pull the dipstick up a couple of inches and the oil will drain a bit faster. The oil will take ten to fifteen minutes to drain completely. ![]() Now onto the filter.... On the 5cyl petrol 850's the oil filter is on the bottom of the engine mounted vertically. This makes getting to it a doddle. However when you remove the filter you are still going to get a good amount of oil coming out of the filter mounting so be prepared for this. Use the oil filter removal tool to loosen the oil filter - once it has loosened a bit it can easily be turned by hand. ![]() Remove the oil filter (be ready for quite a bit of oil leakage) and then clean up the mounting point. Make sure whatever you use to do this won't leave bits of fabric etc behind, you don't want that in your engine.... ![]() Once all the oil has drained from the engine you can fit the new filter and replace the sump plug. ![]() Take the new oil filter and smear a small amount of clean new oil around the sealing gasket. ![]() Screw the oil filter into place by hand. No tools are needed to fit the oil filter, hand tightening is perfectly fine. Replace the washer on the sump plug and screw the plug back into the block. Hand tighten it and then finish off with the torque wrench set to 35 Nm. ![]() Lower the car back to the ground. Fill the engine with oil. You really don't want to forget this bit ![]() ![]() Mr Haynes says the T5 takes 6.2 litres of oil and non-turbo cars take 5.3 litres. I plonked a full 5 litre bottle into my T5, waited 5 minutes and the oil level on the dipstick was just above the min mark so that seems accurate to me. Once the car has the correct amount of oil in it (hopefully rather more than in the pic below - I added another litre after that!) you can start the engine. ![]() The oil pressure light should go out almost immediately. Don't risk your engine, if the oil pressure light stays on for more than a couple of seconds longer than usual switch off and find out what's wrong. Run the engine for five or ten minutes. Check for leaks from the filter or sump plug. If there aren't any then job done. Sorry the car is so filthy in the photos, I went and washed it as soon as I'd changed the oil! Cheers, John |
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