240 GLT saloon restoration project

[Juular]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Hi Juular,

Wow, just stumbled across your restoration thread, as many others have already commented, you're a much braver man than many of us to undertake such a project, certainly me anyway😀

Seriously though, many congratulations on what you've achieved so far, well deserved, and another Volvo preserved for many years to come let's hope.

Have recently entered the Volvo fold with a '94 940 Wentworth estate 2.0 Turbo that had hardly been used for 10-15 years, first Volvo in 37 years of driving, and as you'd expect, it has some issues, so undergoing a rolling refurb.

Out of interest, what is the blue rust treatment you used on some of your suspension, subframe and fuel tank please??

Probably have a few areas that might benefit from this in months to come, so would be good to have some treatment so I have it to hand when needed.

Cheers
Steve

Thank you for the comments. The blue rust treatment is Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. It works best if you can remove as much rust as possible then use the H80 to encapsulate the remnants. It's not magic, but it does provide a good stable layer for a topcoat and should prevent the rust left over in pits from breaking back out.

[Steve 940]

Thanks so much for that information, should be helpful as I’m in process of refurbishing pair of used front struts and discs, calipers etc for my 940.

I’m currently derusting using electrolysis but dare say things like backplates, will benefit before paint.

Cheers
Steve

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Steve 940

Thanks so much for that information, should be helpful as I’m in process of refurbishing pair of used front struts and discs, calipers etc for my 940.

I’m currently derusting using electrolysis but dare say things like backplates, will benefit before paint.

Cheers
Steve

Backplates will benefit from electrolysis too Steve, the beauty of it is not only does it convert the iron oxide aka rust back to good metal, it also gives a light plating onto the workpiece of good steel.

This can help repair any holes in the backplate and for any severe pits, if you then copper plate it, you can use a blowlamp, flux and solder to fill the pitting. Sand it smooth, give it another coat of copper plate then nickel plate the whole thing.
Paint it afterwards to match the rest.

Over this past year i've been working on something to do "spot electrolysis" simply to derust small areas, however i haven't (for various reasons) got to a point where i can physically test my theories so can't give any definitive information as yet.

Meanwhile for bits that aren't possible to fit in an electrobath, the Bilt Hamber products work well too!

[Juular]

Right, almost there.

I've replaced the water pump, cleaned the pcv and throttle body, replaced the inlet manifold gaskets, replaced the brake servo. Opened up the AAD valve a bit more.

It's now starting and idling fairly well. However, I still feel it's a bit rich. There's a lot of white vapour from the exhaust and the exhaust reeks of petrol even when the temp gauge is in the middle.

The thing is, even with the adjustment screw turned lean to the point where it's starting to struggle to keep ticking over, it still smells a bit rich. How is that possible if physically sounding / acting like on a lean mix?

I pulled out the plug to the CSI just in case it was still spraying fuel. No change.

It is pretty cold at the moment, around 1C.

Am I perhaps just needing to give it a good run through? Or am I being too concerned about it given I'm probably just used to vehicles with cats?

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Juular

Right, almost there.

I've replaced the water pump, cleaned the pcv and throttle body, replaced the inlet manifold gaskets, replaced the brake servo. Opened up the AAD valve a bit more.

It's now starting and idling fairly well. However, I still feel it's a bit rich. There's a lot of white vapour from the exhaust and the exhaust reeks of petrol even when the temp gauge is in the middle.

The thing is, even with the adjustment screw turned lean to the point where it's starting to struggle to keep ticking over, it still smells a bit rich. How is that possible if physically sounding / acting like on a lean mix?

I pulled out the plug to the CSI just in case it was still spraying fuel. No change.

It is pretty cold at the moment, around 1C.

Am I perhaps just needing to give it a good run through? Or am I being too concerned about it given I'm probably just used to vehicles with cats?

Italian tune up?

[Laird Scooby]

You really need to get it on a gas analyser to see what the CO is doing, it could be it's actually running lean but in doing so, causing unburned fuel to exit into the exhaust. It could also be excess fuel in the exhaust from where you initially had trouble.
There is the possibility one or more of the main injectors are leaking while switched off but again, that should clear once running.

As the fuel is unleaded, they produce a steamy exhaust, especially on older engines but again, that usually clears once warmed up. Could also be an excess of condensation in the exhaust system and some of the unburned fuel is floating on that causing a petrol-pong from the tailpipes.

[Juular]

Thanks folks. Most of this is reassuring. I think I will set the CO adjustment to where it sounds right and give it a good thrash on the way to the MOT place.

Pretty sure the injectors are working alright, I've had them in and out a few times and they've always been dry, although a quick test into some bottles wouldn't hurt.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Juular

Thanks folks. Most of this is reassuring. I think I will set the CO adjustment to where it sounds right and give it a good thrash on the way to the MOT place.

Pretty sure the injectors are working alright, I've had them in and out a few times and they've always been dry, although a quick test into some bottles wouldn't hurt.

If nothing else that will prove (or not!) that they're all delivering a similar amount of fuel. Anything untoward will soon show up!

[Juular]

Almost there! I took it a short drive today. Happy with the idle and the starting now.

The final stumbling block is that it bogs down and dies on full throttle above around 2000rpm, but only under load. It also seems to get a bit claggy at that point.

I sprayed carb cleaner around everything whilst running without a change in RPM.

What else to check?

I didn't change the throttle body gasket - I might make a new one.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Juular

Almost there! I took it a short drive today. Happy with the idle and the starting now.

The final stumbling block is that it bogs down and dies on full throttle above around 2000rpm, but only under load. It also seems to get a bit claggy at that point.

I sprayed carb cleaner around everything whilst running without a change in RPM.

What else to check?

I didn't change the throttle body gasket - I might make a new one.

I'd check for leaks in the "sock" between the throttle body and fuel distributor, especially loose Jubilee clips securing said sock to either of those components. Also check for splits in the sock and/or perishing to ensure it's getting the full airflow it needs.

However the other thing that may be causing it is that it's running richer as engine speed increases as the injection pressure increases, suggesting a partial blockage at idle pressures on the injectors - did you put the injectors into 4 identical jars and measure the amount of fuel dispensed?