B230 Fuel pump & Oil thingy question

[Chooch84]

Hi,

I have a 940 Estate which has one fuel pump in the fuel tank. I'm looking to upgrade this unit in the spare time that I have. My question is, what is the easiest way to remove the pump? Can it be removed from inside via the inspection hatch or do I have to drop the tank?


The other question that I have is regarding the oil thing on the RHS of the engine, see image below. Is that an oil pressure switch or temp sensor, I doubt it's the latter, and what thread is it?



Thanks in advance!

[Jebus]

The photos are not showing up, however the sensor on the front o/s of the engine is the oil pressure switch.

Yes the whole sender unit can come out through the inspection hole to replace the pump, the standard spec pump can come with a pretty decent upgrade in power, but if big goals are on the paper work the ever popular walbro 225 seem to be a common choice. Not taken mine out but I think to get it back in you need to tie the sender/pump init thing compressed but not sure what the best method is on that however

[Chooch84]

Hi Jebus,

Thank you for letting me know about the pictures. I'll attach them instead, I'm attempting to use google photo's as a hosting service, clearly that isn't working!

Okay, I'll attempt to remove the pump at some point this week, if the weather holds out. I've got a walbro ready to go in, with some larger diameter fuel pipe, filters, fuel pulse dampener, and fuel rails etc etc.

If anyone knows the thread size of the oil pressure switch it would be greatly appreciated.

[Chooch84]

Found out the thread size, it's M14 x 1.5 pitch....

[griston64]

Make sure you get a new seal when you take pump out. They are only about £12 from Volvo

[TonyS9]

Its quite difficult to get an oil pressure sensor + switch to repace the switch.

The 440 module has the correct thread but doesn't fit with the red block moulding, the body is too close to the block and it can't done up.

If you get an extender/adaptor you need to make sure it can seal on the face, so the thread needs cut out near the face, or the washer should be thicker than the thread lead in from the face.

Unfortunately I havn't come up with a solution yet but hopefully you can know the pitfalls.

[Chooch84]

Originally Posted by griston64

Make sure you get a new seal when you take pump out. They are only about £12 from Volvo

Mark, thankfully sometime in the past I must have already thought about that ahead, as I found the seal and a new big collar/nut thing in a storage box.

I've still got petrol in the tank, although I quite like the smell of petrol, I don't really like the idea of sitting in the car whilst it fills up with petrol fumes!

Originally Posted by TonyS9

Its quite difficult to get an oil pressure sensor + switch to repace the switch.

The 440 module has the correct thread but doesn't fit with the red block moulding, the body is too close to the block and it can't done up.

If you get an extender/adaptor you need to make sure it can seal on the face, so the thread needs cut out near the face, or the washer should be thicker than the thread lead in from the face.

Unfortunately I havn't come up with a solution yet but hopefully you can know the pitfalls.

Tony, thank you for the heads up, I found an M14 x1.5 brass adaptor with a 1/8npt thread in one of my boxes of hoarded items, so I'll be putting this onto the block with a thick copper washer, and I've just ordered some 1/8npt 450mm extensions so that I can mount the pressure sensors away from the block itself.

I just hope it all goes together without too much agro!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chooch84

Hi Jebus,

Thank you for letting me know about the pictures. I'll attach them instead, I'm attempting to use google photo's as a hosting service, clearly that isn't working!

Okay, I'll attempt to remove the pump at some point this week, if the weather holds out. I've got a walbro ready to go in, with some larger diameter fuel pipe, filters, fuel pulse dampener, and fuel rails etc etc.

I've found using a piece of wooden batten on the edge of the lock ring and tapping the other end with a hammer is ideal to loosen and tighten the lock ring - also check tighten it a couple of months after refitting.

Once the lock ring is off and all other connections are removed from the pump/sender unit, start removal by easing the top edge out first. Easiest done facing the front of the car so you'll be easing the top edge towards you.

As it comes out, lift slightly and as soon as you can, rotate it through 90 degrees, it only works one way and i can't remember whether to rotate left or right.

Once you've found which way works, start pulling the pump/sender unit out in a curve.

Refitting, you Haynes it, there's only one position where the float actually sits right in the tank and there's some slight spring pressure in it so the last bit of the travel of the flange into its home in the tank neck is a bit strange.

Welcome to Volvo Gynacology 101!

[Chooch84]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Welcome to Volvo Gynacology 101!

Thanks for the advice, I was thinking about how to take it off. The plan was to work on it today, but as per always, when you plan to do something the weather has other ideas!

[aardvarkash10]

What Dave sed.

Also, the main fuel OUT line is a pull-to-release fitting (like a comressed air coupling). Or at least, it was on Moomin. Took me a while to figure out why it wouldn't release...

Release hte wiring harness from teh l'h side well in the load bay before you do anything. It will make your life a whole lot easier. There are a couple of reusable cable ties/harness mounts on the load bay side and a couple more in hideously placed locations "outside" the load bay.

You need the hands of a gibbon, the patience of a saint, a a very good SOH to get through this one.