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'Turnbuckle' adjusters

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Old Jan 16th, 2009, 15:23   #1
PTJS
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Default 'Turnbuckle' adjusters

Hi All

My 1988 240GL (B200E) is in need of drive belt adjustment to the alternator and the power steering pump. The power steering pump has what is described in the Haynes manual as a 'turnbuckle' adjuster and there appears to be a similar arrangement for adjusting the alternator. My question is can the adjustment be made purely on the turnbuckle adjuster or do I need to slacken off the pivot and any other bolts as well before doing this?

Thanks

Phil
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Old Jan 16th, 2009, 16:53   #2
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unscrew turnbuckle, slacken off locking nut, adjust unit, retighten locking nut, tighten turnbuckle.
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Old Jan 18th, 2009, 17:24   #3
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Which version of Haynes is that? Neither of mine (red and green) talk about a 'turnbuckle' adjuster and I don't see how it could be used in this situation.
Anyway, be that as it may. My PS pump needs the pivot bolt slackening before adjustment, the alternator doesn't. Always leave the adjusters slack after tightening the clamping bolt otherwise the vibration will snap the bolts rendering the adjuster useless.
ie
Loosen clamp bolt (and pivot bolt if necessary)
Tighten adjuster to desired tension.
Tighten clamp bolt (and pivot bolt if necessary)
Loosen adjuster.
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Old Jan 19th, 2009, 21:07   #4
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OK. I can't find now where I read about this model having turnbuckle adjusters. When I got down to it there was an adjuster bolt on each unit (with no locking nut) and a pivot bolt so, after giving everything a good squirt of penetrating oil, I followed the procedure which Mike Brace outlines in his article on changing the cam belt. In the end it was all quite straightforward.

The cam belt is coming due for replacement and I may tackle it if I don't have to remove the bottom pulley. Can anyone advise if this is necessary on the B200E engine?

Cheers

Phil
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Old Jan 19th, 2009, 21:25   #5
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Doing the cam belt by the book you need to take the crank pulley off. I think I may have heard rumours about doing it without but I can't see how.
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Old Jan 19th, 2009, 22:01   #6
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take the crank pully off, its only one bolt that hold it on.
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Old Jan 21st, 2009, 16:02   #7
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Thanks chaps. On the subject of cam belt replacement a local motor engineer who I have used before with confidence on several occasions has quoted me £105 labour inc VAT for doing the job. Sounds a little bit tasty to me, don't know what you think. Might be enough to persuade me to do it myself.

Phil
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Old Jan 21st, 2009, 19:17   #8
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I too worried about doing the cambelt on my car, but im 16 and I managed it! Im sure you can....

Its just a case of doing a bit of unbolting at the front of the engine (fan, shroud, etc), put it in gear with handbrake firmly on and undo main bolt from crank pulley. Replace belt (its easy), and refit everything....

Steve
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Old Jan 22nd, 2009, 09:21   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve and his 244 View Post
I too worried about doing the cambelt on my car, but im 16 and I managed it! Im sure you can....

Its just a case of doing a bit of unbolting at the front of the engine (fan, shroud, etc), put it in gear with handbrake firmly on and undo main bolt from crank pulley. Replace belt (its easy), and refit everything....

Steve
B21s are a piece of cake, Steve, as there are 6 10mil bolts holding the pulley in place: B200/230s were "improved" (Hutber's Law - Improvement means deterioration) by replacing the 6 small bolts with one 24mil one torqued to about 3million lb/ft that needs an air-wrench to remove. But removing the grille, radiator and fan makes the job a lot easier as all the timing marks can be seen through the radiator-shaped space.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2009, 15:56   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loki_the_glt View Post
B21s are a piece of cake, Steve, as there are 6 10mil bolts holding the pulley in place: B200/230s were "improved" (Hutber's Law - Improvement means deterioration) by replacing the 6 small bolts with one 24mil one torqued to about 3million lb/ft that needs an air-wrench to remove. But removing the grille, radiator and fan makes the job a lot easier as all the timing marks can be seen through the radiator-shaped space.
Well yeah, but its the actual replacing the belt that most people worry about. I know mine was easier in the way that the pulley comes off so much easier, but it cant be that hard to put the car in gear with the handbrake wrenched on, and undo it!

When I changed my cambelt I checked my centre bolt was tight, and im sure it moved a little bit when I tightened it, but I put the torque wrench on it and set it correctly, so it must be fine.

Steve
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