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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Restoration OrderViews : 2972 Replies : 40Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 27th, 2022, 11:01 | #21 |
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Last Online: May 2nd, 2024 07:47
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Location: Leics
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There are lots of tutorials on line, You tube in particular, that will help you start welding. Best to practice a lot on some scrap before starting for real.
One you tube series is "Fitzee's fabrication". He does a lot of work with basic tools in a small workshop and explains what he is doing. As a bonus the way he talks reminds me of Popeye! Getting the car done bit by bit is certainly feasable especially if it not used as a daily driver. Tim |
Dec 27th, 2022, 11:22 | #22 | |||
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If your aim is just to make the 240 roadworthy then that is the most important question answered straight away. You are right: until you get the body sorted out there isn't any point worrying about the rest - just make a note of any missing bits and start looking for them (free or cheap) for when you need them. You will certainly need some cutting and welding tools, so start looking for those, and when you find then get some practice. Quote:
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Is the gearbox really in the boot, or did I misunderstand that (it doesn't really matter at this stage, the body needs fixing first)? Good fortune, Alan
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Dec 27th, 2022, 11:32 | #23 |
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Last Online: Apr 2nd, 2024 19:53
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Location: Bridgend
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Yeah you read that correct, gearbox is a known good working replacement and currently in the boot along with most of the interior which I stripped. In between me buy it and now my partner decided lol (we decided) to build and extension. So I lost my garage.
Last edited by Kirtward; Dec 27th, 2022 at 11:35. |
Dec 27th, 2022, 12:11 | #25 | |
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Juular had nothing more for his 240 build, just eat your Weetabix. It would be a good idea to acquire some sort of canopy and windbreak, particularly when you are welding. Again Juular's threads (his Amazon thread as well) have lots of good tips. Put the gearbox in a safe place for the moment, you won't be needing it for some time. If the engine is out as well that might make access a bit easier for welding at the front. It will be easier to work on the engine with it out as well. It might be worth asking here on the forum for recommendations for MIG welding equipment and other tools you will need (in particular Burdekin and Juular are very knowlegable). This is a really exciting project - good fortune. Alan Good fortune Kirtward,
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... another lovely day in paradise. Last edited by Othen; Dec 27th, 2022 at 12:34. |
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Dec 27th, 2022, 12:35 | #26 | |
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Location: Ashbourne
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When completed, you will have a car you know inside out. Brilliant! Power to you!👍🧐
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Dec 27th, 2022, 22:19 | #27 |
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Last Online: Apr 2nd, 2024 19:53
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Thanks Moomoo for the vote of confidence
And Tim I really like Fitzee's, it makes it look effortless, which means it will be really hard So welding questions - What gauge of metal and wire would be best for practicing? Could this be done with a flux core or have to shell out for gas shielded mig? Is there a base setting on a welder to start with for this kind of work? Thanks again |
Dec 28th, 2022, 09:50 | #28 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 10:25
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Location: London and Cambridge
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First off, good luck with the project and do post updates as you progress
If you have no welding experience at all and don’t have an experienced mate with a lot of free time who is happy to teach you, I highly recommend a evening/weekend welding course - look at your local 6th form college, most of them offer course like this, or just google ‘adult learning welding course’ and see what you find. I know a lot of people will say just get on with it and that they learnt by doing, but welding can be incredibly frustrating when you’re starting out, blowing holes in sheet metal, or warping it from heat or failing to stick things together at all. Learning in a workshop environment with someone available to show you what you’re doing right and wrong is time and money well spent in my experience. I did a week long course a while back before starting on my car and it gave me the necessary knowledge and confidence to get on with it. Of course you keep learning as you go, but starting with a decent understanding of the basics will save you a lot of time, effort and heartache. Also, as others have said there are a lot of YouTube videos out there, I watched a lot when I was starting out. Cheers |
Dec 28th, 2022, 11:22 | #29 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 19:06
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Falkirk
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Go for it. The skills and confidence earned will be more than worth it.
It will cost more in time and money than you plan for, and what the car is worth. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't. I restored mine with a similar mission - to learn how to weld and repair almost anything on a car. I hadn't even driven a 240 before when I bought it, I just liked the shape. I also have a desk job, in IT, and suffer serious mental health issues because of it, but the 240 project really helped me get things back in order and have something to look forward to. I owe the project more than it owes me. You will end up learning about more than just welding and fabrication, as I'll bet there's a fair amount of electrical parts needing stripped and rebuilt. I found all of it interesting and educational. I bought mine for £500 with similar rust issues and I needed to replace almost everything in terms of suspension and engine consumables. I could have done it cheaper but I reckon I spent around a year of work and £2000 or so restoring my 240 to an MOT standard. Nothing in itself was particularly expensive as parts are cheap and easy to get, on the whole. Some unexpected faulty parts stung though. The key is that many expensive components can be stripped and rebuilt for next to nothing if you're prepared to get stuck in. I love my 240, it's an absolutely cracking car. The best part is driving in a car you can honestly say you've "sorted" inside and out and you know every nut and bolt. Don't let the windscreen rust bother you, especially if you have a replacement scuttle. I had to fabricate one out of thin air and honestly found it an enjoyable challenge. Do prepare for a replacement windscreen though as it WILL crack when removed. If you go ahead, keep in touch and ask lots of questions. I'm sure we've developed a pretty good resource on this forum for answers to common questions and what kind of things to look out for. |
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Dec 28th, 2022, 11:35 | #30 | |
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Last Online: Yesterday 19:06
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Quote:
Chassis rail repairs will be 2mm mild steel. 0.6mm wire is neater and easier to control the heat, but it's a toss up really between that and 0.8mm. You will quickly get used to whatever you have. I did my 240 using gas shielded MIG, as everyone recommended this for a beginner. Honestly, if I was starting again I'd just go for flux core and extra time spent practicing with it. It has made my life so much easier not having to wait for a calm windless day to do the welding, and also not having to lug the gas bottle around. I'd also say it's cheaper overall, despite the flux cored wire being around twice the price. I'd say it's important to get an inverter welder that gives you infinite adjustment of voltage and wire speed, as that fine control can give you the difference between a nice weld and a frustrating mess. I learned by getting some scrap 1mm steel and cutting lots of lines in it with tin snips, and welding them shut. Here is the thin metal technique you need. https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/thin-metal.htm |
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