D5252T Pump Timing

[Clan]

Originally Posted by artiedtke

Anybody know where I can get a new one ?? Or is it main dealer jobby only ??

AFAIK the air mass meter on the 850 TDI is a little old fashioned...

i dont know which version of air mass meter you have , the older bulky alluminium flap type are very reliable, the later conventional air mass meter type can gradualy change its values over time causing this lack of torque under 2000 rpm .. Unlike pertol versions the diesel system has no feedback from a lambda probe to compensate for this .

[artiedtke]

Originally Posted by Clan

i dont know which version of air mass meter you have , the older bulky alluminium flap type are very reliable, the later conventional air mass meter type can gradualy change its values over time causing this lack of torque under 2000 rpm .. Unlike pertol versions the diesel system has no feedback from a lambda probe to compensate for this .

Ah very interesting, AFAIK the D5252T in the 850 TDI came with a FLAP type vane airflow meter whereas the D5252T in the V70 TDI came with a proper electronic MAF.

Am i wrong.

Also how can i tell which kind is fitted to my car ??

[Clan]

Originally Posted by artiedtke

Ah very interesting, AFAIK the D5252T in the 850 TDI came with a FLAP type vane airflow meter whereas the D5252T in the V70 TDI came with a proper electronic MAF.

Am i wrong.

Also how can i tell which kind is fitted to my car ??

If yours is '96 855 2.5 TDI D5252T - 222,222 miles
then you have the bulky mechanical flap type on the air filter housing , so it wouldnt apply with yours . Although in 222000 miles it may be subject to some wear ! However my old 360 GLT had done 250000 miles on its original air mass meter of the same type .

[The Hooded Claw]

Excuse me May I interseed here <<<< That "Polite" enough fer ya ??

I have professionally dealt with these things on a daily basis since they came out on the 850 Tdi and still do . .

"Professionally" I would agree with yer there ... but most Guys on here are doin their belts on their own Driveways I was "Advocating" that they DO CHECK their Pump Timing because they ARE NOT "professionals" merely trying their best to "save a few Quid" by doin what is a potentially" a "Pig of a Job" (To themselves) Rather then take it to a Professional (such as yourself)..

YOU stated that you do NOT need to check the Pump Timing that statement is based on the fact that (as you say) you Deal with this sort of thing everyday.

The guys on Here DO NOT & therefore "Errors" could & DO occur.

[Clan]

Yes thats much better thanks :-)

what i said was that pump timing wont need checking between belt changes because unlike an older mechanical diesel the electronics keep the timing adjusted perfectly between it's limits and if it cant, due to incorrect mechanical setting then the engine light will come on with a pump timing code . That goes for whoever sets the timing ..
I shall move on away now ...

[The Hooded Claw]

the electronics keep the timing adjusted perfectly between it's limits and if it cant, due to incorrect mechanical setting then the engine light will come on with a pump timing code .

As has been said in this thread & from MY personal Experience ... NOT TRUE Both the OP & myself have had Pump Timing MANY degrees out & NO ENGINE MGMT LIGHT illuminated

[PNuT]

Originally Posted by The Hooded Claw

As has been said in this thread & from MY personal Experience ... NOT TRUE Both the OP & myself have had Pump Timing MANY degrees out & NO ENGINE MGMT LIGHT illuminated

maybe you need to clarify exactly why you think the pump timing was just going many degrees out on the engines you have dealt with?

having inspected all the parts on my car i really am at quite a loss as to how the pump drive system is just going to move all by itself unless one of the parts is faulty.....

for info purposes i could only get my timing to adjust around 5 degrees on the adjustment itself from one stop to another... any more than that & it was a case of moving teeth on the pulley.

also the eml lit up quite quickly with the engine at +8 degrees, under 8 degrees it was taking about twenty minutes to light...

i would hazard a guess at the real two problems behind the timing on these engines being out is firstly missed timing intervals of the belts to save a few quid & secondly incorrect adjustment in the first place....

[The Hooded Claw]

In my personal case when I bought the S80 the previous owner had had the Belt changed by some baxck street "Spanner Jockey" who quite obviously DID NOT know wot the hell he was doing ..

[zaci]

Hi, and sorry for language because I don´t know the exact words for certain parts, hope you understand (I´m from Finland).

I have 850 Tdi -96, 558 00km (which is something like 350 000 miles).

I just took my car to local Bosch service for making the belt changing (cam belt, water pump and its belt and all the tightener rollers). The supply pump belt wasn´t changed since it was changed 12 000 miles ago.

The motor was running very smoothly and well before service. Acceleration seemed to be normal, torque at low rpm was good. Never had had any problems with the engine.

But now after service the engine is barely running. Mechanics said that they made all the adjustments to the cam and supply pump belts as always before, but with these factory settings the engine didn´t start at all. Now when they adjusted the supply pump much earlier (which gives the engine failure sign and prevents the electrical adjustment) the engine is running roughly, giving light smoke and lacking almost all of the power.

The main mechanic said that there could be something wrong in the supply pump or in its electronics, and they wanted to disassemble it. The costs would been something like 200 to 1000 euros.

Is it possible that normally running engine or supply pump can be broken in normal service, or is it just lack of skills in the adjustments? Or what else could have possibly gone wrong. They made adjustments to the cam and supply pump timing.

Cheers