General: S60 front door speaker replacement - photoblog & how to

[ptruman]

Hello all,

Here is my (very large!) pictorial guide on how to swap out your S60 front door main speaker(s), in the event yours goes 'pop'....this includes how to get the door card off.

Stuff You'll Need

1. Replacement speaker(s) - 165mm
2. Autoleads speaker adaptor - SAK-3207 OR SAK-3215 (see below)
3. Electric drill with metal cutting drill bits (circa 6mm)
4. Magnetic screwdrivers (with changeable heads)
5. Torx bit set
6. Philips head bit set
7. Thin bladed butter knife
8. Glue gun
9. Patience (in my case a swear box)
10. Rubber Mallet (if you're unlucky...see below)

Instructions

1) Know your door card!

Your S60 drivers door card will look something like this :



2) Remove the door card

If you look at the door's plastic grab handle, you will see a groove running vertically along the side of it. Insert a butter knife into the groove, and gently prise the cover off. Do this carefully from bottom to top, as there are many clips. You should wind up with something like this :



Once both sides of the cover are loose, you can gently pull the cover towards you (away from the door). You should see two holes at the top/bottom of the handle, which contain two torx screws.



Remove them, using a magnetic screwdriver, as the top hole has a hole/channel cut in it, so you can temporarily loose the screw if you're not lucky. If you DO loose it, don't worry, you'll get it back when you pull the card off shortly...

Now you need to remove the seven "pushpin clips" which are located around the left, bottom & right edges of the doorcards. They looklike this :



If you have a 2000-2003 model, your clips will match these (albeit maybe a different colour). 2004, R model & onward cars have smooth surface clips, which you may need to replace after this - but removal of them is still the same!

Get a small screwdriver or centrepunch, and gently push the centre of the rivet in until it gives, and the centre moves back into the rivet about 5mm, so it looks like this :



Now gently pull the rivet out by it's edges. You might need your butter knife again to gently ease it away from the door card depending on how well stuck it is!

Don't push the centre too hard, or you'll lose it in the door!

At this point, the door card will now be 'hanging' on the door by it's topmost part where it meets the window gasket, so leave it for now, as you need to remove the triangular plastic trim in the front corner of the window (i.e. this) :



Gently insert your butter knife under the lip of the plastic piece, and carefully prise it backward. This piece has three leg clips holding it to the door, be careful not to snap them, as it's quite expensive to replace apparently.

I took a picture so you can see where the legs are :



Now the plastic piece is off, you can separate the door card from the door by holding both left & right sides of the card and wiggling it upward - over the door bolt. You might need to wiggle quite hard, as the lip is quite tight by the window, but it should free up and come loose.

Do NOT pull it up or away from the door once it's free of the lip, as there are electrical leads between the door & card, which you need to deal with!

This picture shows you the leads you need to disconnect :



Each connector shown has a clip (which you can easily locate with your thumb). Press the clip and pull the connector out. As you can't quite see it in this shot, the "Door Switch" connector at the bottom of the black door switch box is green, and you need to pull it down (towards the floor) to get it out. The other door switch connector comes out sideways.

The "Door Handle Connector" can be left in situe, if you gently turn the card degrees and stand it on the floor. Alternately, you can disconnect it (which I did by accident when I dropped the card!) but it's up to you.

3) Remove the old speaker

Your speaker is well and truly held in by five rivets, four torx screws and two plastic mouldings!

First of all, unscrew the four torx screws on the outer housing. Then drill out the rightmost rivet shown in the picture - and you can then remove the outer plastic housing.

Then drill out the four remaining rivets, and you should be able to pull the speaker housing (including the speaker) off the door. You might find it's stuck, as mine had a sticky foam gasket between the housing and the door metal.



You will now need to disconnect the speaker, which is simply a case of removing the connector at the bottom :



And hopefully you have a hole!



4) Fit your speaker adaptor

I took the above picture, as my car was like that for two days, due to the wrong adaptor!
2000-2003 S60 cars typically have SAK-3207 as a fitting - which has THREE legs/rivet holes. As you can see, mine has FOUR, so the adaptor wasn't going to work....I spoke to Autoleads and ascertained I needed an SAK-3215 kit, which is apparently for late model (2004+) cars - even though mine is an 03 plate....

I'd also encourage you to check your kit thoroughly. SAK-3207 has two adaptors (for both doors) and with THREE legs would need SIX rivet replacements - I had FOUR?! The SAK-3215 kit I received had NONE - so it's a good job I kept both kits! I will be ringing Autoleads to get some more, as I'm a little less than chuffed at that!

Anyway, here are the SAK-3215 brackets :



First off, you need to run the supplied sticky foam strip around the hole, so you don't get vibrations. Once done it looks like this :



Then you need to insert the rivet fillers into your holes. I had to drill my holes a bit bigger to get them to fit - but they look like this :



Once they're in, you'll notice they don't have a screwhole in - so you need to screw a screw into them. This is easier said than done, as once the screw bites, the fillers rotate in the hole.....at this point I swore a bit, and retrieved my glue gun...



No moving that one Once all four were glued, I could screw the adaptor in, which I duly did :



At this point, the end should be in sight - all you need to do is connect your speaker, screw the speaker into the adaptor, replace the door card, and off you go. Except I fell at the first hurdle :



The grey (top) connector belongs to the car. The white (bottom) connector belongs to the Autoleads kit. BOTH 3207 & 3215 kits had the same adaptor. As you can see, they won't fit together.....at this point I swore again, and pondered what to do, with my half finished car.

Annoyance and I tend to go badly, especially with technology, so I found my rubber mallet and applied it liberally to the white Autoleads adaptor. This freed up the red & black wires with their spaded ends, which I could then insert directly into the Volvo connector. FYI the Volvo connector has two grey wires, one with a purple or red stripe, which is the positive wire.

The Autoleads spades were nice and tight in the connector - but another problem rapidly became apparent - with the speaker in place, there was nowhere to run the leads....(nice design!) - so I had to drill out a hole in the adaptor to feed the wires through. I also decided to glue the Volvo connector to the door in case it rattled. That all looks like this :



With *that* done, I could finally connect the speaker, and screw it in! The end result is shown here :



FYI those are Alpine 165mm speakers from Halfords, which cost £30 for two - rated at 40W each, which is above the 35W Volvo ones I removed.

5) Replace your door card

Now you can put everything back together, so reconnect your door cables, and hang the door card on using it's lip on the window gasket (which you wiggled it off previously). Then replace the two door handle torx screws, push the plastic corner triangle back into place, and re-insert all the pushpin rivets.

FYI, when you removed the rivets, they should look like this :



When you come to re-insert them, push the spikey bit back into the rivet, to about 3-5mm sticks ABOVE the top of the rivet, like so :



You can then put the rivet back in the card, ensure the card is snug against the door, and push the protruding centre pin back into the rivet until it clicks. Do that with all seven rivets.

Job done! (for that door anyway!)

And for the hell of it, here is a picture of the reason I had to replace the speaker :



That is a speaker & separated speaker magnet - they are only glued on, and I suspect heat & vibration shaft the glue nicely. My speaker was warping at loud bass notes - and when I remove it from the door, the magnet fell onto the floor. The Alpine replacements have magnets which are encased in the speaker housing and can't fall off...


Anyway, I hope that's helpful to some of you

[ptruman]

A couple of observations from a follow on (with my passenger door) today :

- The triangular plastic cover at the inside top of the door should have some foam inside/under it (my drivers door one was missing). Also, the receiving clips in the door may/can come away with the trim (they can be pulled off and re-inserted into the door, or just put back 'attached' when you put the trim back)

- The electric connector clips are up against the door card on the passenger side (i.e. not directly visible and more fiddly to get to)

- My drivers door may have previously been fiddled with, as the passenger side rivets are WAY 'thicker' in terms of depth - I only got one of five out, on the second one my drill bit actually gave up and snapped.... (I have therefore temporarily abandoned the other door and glued the housing back into position....

[John_C]

Brilliant how-to, thanks

[RaVolvoR]

This just saved me "loads-a-money"! Car passenger window had jumped off runners and I couldn't figure out how the card came off.... then I remembered this forum and hey ho... problem solved.

Thanks to all who put time & effort into this forum!

[Sn00py]

Great write up will keep for future reference , thanks for ALL the hard work.

[MileMuncher]

Did you get the adaptors from Halfords too?

Does it sound any better than the standard ones?

[Bhowani 2]

As you have had the door cards off...... are the trim bits (silver - "wood")
secured from behind or can you simply prise the off with the famous butter knife. I appreciate you didn't take 'em off but might have clocked how they were fitted.

Obliged

Bhowani
V70 LPG with yuk silver trim!

[Michaelc672]

Thank you for all the infoof the S60 which give me all details for removal of the trim from my V70
I am searching for an irritating rattle, which I cannot stop by pressing the trim panel.
What do I do next if I do not find anything loose between the trim and the inner door panel?

[hobbyhorse]

Thanks for the heads up

I notice in our V70 the door speaker is much bigger than the one shown here ~ premium sound pack ?? Disconnecting the window switch block gives a few recurrent fault codes - it's worth checking to see if one touch is still working

[Dallasaurora]

My 2001 S80 2.4 Auto drivers side door window has just come loose so will have to tackle this job tomorrow. I was looking through the Haynes manual and it talks about drilling rivets out.

Can anyone tell me what type of rivets I will need to replace them with or whether I can use something else ?

Just hope we get good weather tomorrow...