Inner wing changes

jimbo1593 · Apr 29th, 2021, 14:41

Does anyone know when inner front wing design changed during production or was different on different models.

A few pics, and catalogue diagrams, i have show a ribbed section behind the wheel as it meets the bulkhead.
Mine are smooth but have a strengthening triangular plate in this area (with about 30 spot welds).
I did know that the strengthening plate was a later mod, but didn't realise the wing itself changed.

Cheers

Derek UK · Apr 29th, 2021, 21:27

The vertical part of the inner wing was originally part of the whole curved panel right down to the chassis rail. The long box section to which the wing bolts was a seperate part. Rust is common on both the vertical section and the box section. Standard repair is to fit a combined part that takes the place of both of them right back to the bulkhead. The original inner wing went back nearly to the bulkhead but at approx the deepest part it joined the bulkhead pressing. If the inner wing is original you will be able to see the join. The ribs are just stiffeners. The one on the passenger side (RHD) is the correct handy place to mount the Volvo servo bracket as it also good and rigid there. The bracket bridges the rib and the pre drilled holes often already there.
Your tack welded triangle is just a patch repair.I t isn't the Volvo rally strengthening mod. That is at the bottom of the inner wing and triangulates the wing to the chassis.

jimbo1593 · Apr 30th, 2021, 23:05

Thx for reply Derek.
This isn't a patch repair it's a plate on top of the inner wing. The plate was rusty not the wing. From the pics you can see the outline of the plate and the number of spots i needed to remove, you can also see the flange of the bulkhead box section i needed to fold back to remove the apex spot weld.

Derek UK · May 1st, 2021, 12:31

That is a version of the strengthening plate shown in one of Volvo's bulletins. It's to reduce the chance of cracking at that point when doing jumps when rallying. Because dirt and water can accumulate in that corner it is also prone to rust out the chassis member. A plate like this (maybe yours) shouldn't be used to plate over this area if it is rusted out. Please show us a clear picture with your report after removing it. If it is only on one side it was for repair and not rally reinforcement.

jimbo1593 · May 7th, 2021, 09:35

Hi Derek,
Perhaps the pic isn't the clearest.
My pic is with the plate already removed. The plate was probably 2mm steel lots of surface rust, held on with lots of spot welds not tacks. I drilled these out as per pic, and removed. What you see in the pic is the surface rusty, but solid, inner wing. The steel here is smooth with no ribs for strength. I've attached a parts diagram of the inner wing in this area that shows 2 strengthening indentations.
So my question is did early wings have no indentations, which resulted in cracks. Were the indentations added to later wings, but a remedial cure was to weld in the triangular plate as per my wing?

I'm doing a full engine bay refurb, and tidy up, so will be welding a new plate in this area once all cleaned and prepped.

Derek UK · May 7th, 2021, 16:48

I can't comment about the 2 triangular pressing in the inner wing shown in the parts pic. I might get to my Amazon sometime soon but perhaps someone like Mitch who has his Estate shell up on the rotisserie could take a picture of this area for reference? Creeping rust in the top of the chassis member due to dirt and water build up in that corner can often be well hidden so would weaken the structure there. The rally stiffeners came about when the cars were new so they weren't being modified for that reason. If there is no strength reducing rust and the car is for normal road use there is no need to add these stiffeners. They certainly won't do any harm though.
Direct link
https://volvo1800pictures.com/sb/8/8...g%20plates.htm

Indirect link
https://volvo1800pictures.com/PHPMak....php?start=141

Burdekin · May 7th, 2021, 19:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbo1593

Hi Derek,
Perhaps the pic isn't the clearest.
My pic is with the plate already removed. The plate was probably 2mm steel lots of surface rust, held on with lots of spot welds not tacks. I drilled these out as per pic, and removed. What you see in the pic is the surface rusty, but solid, inner wing. The steel here is smooth with no ribs for strength. I've attached a parts diagram of the inner wing in this area that shows 2 strengthening indentations.
So my question is did early wings have no indentations, which resulted in cracks. Were the indentations added to later wings, but a remedial cure was to weld in the triangular plate as per my wing?

I'm doing a full engine bay refurb, and tidy up, so will be welding a new plate in this area once all cleaned and prepped.

The area circled is a pressing in the wing and mine did have a crack even with the pressings. Mine is 1966 estate. Some pics of my OS and the plate I made and welded in.

As Derek said mine is totally stripped at the moment so I can get some more pics if needed but mine has plates welded on both sides now.

Derek UK · May 8th, 2021, 00:26

Picture #4 reminded me about the rather odd triangular plate in the corner. It seems more of a splash guard than a structural item. I think it's designed so that any water that gets behind it can drain back out.

Thanks for posted the pictures Mitch I'm sure they will be useful.

Burdekin · May 8th, 2021, 06:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Derek UK

Picture #4 reminded me about the rather odd triangular plate in the corner. It seems more of a splash guard than a structural item. I think it's designed so that any water that gets behind it can drain back out.

Thanks for posted the pictures Mitch I'm sure they will be useful.

Yeah the one of the chassis rail I think you are right is just more of a splash guard.

jimbo1593 · May 8th, 2021, 21:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Derek UK

I can't comment about the 2 triangular pressing in the inner wing shown in the parts pic. I might get to my Amazon sometime soon but perhaps someone like Mitch who has his Estate shell up on the rotisserie could take a picture of this area for reference? Creeping rust in the top of the chassis member due to dirt and water build up in that corner can often be well hidden so would weaken the structure there. The rally stiffeners came about when the cars were new so they weren't being modified for that reason. If there is no strength reducing rust and the car is for normal road use there is no need to add these stiffeners. They certainly won't do any harm though.
Direct link
https://volvo1800pictures.com/sb/8/8...g%20plates.htm

Indirect link
https://volvo1800pictures.com/PHPMak....php?start=141

Those are great pics Derek, thanks for that. Really informative.

Apr 29th, 2021, 14:41	#1
jimbo1593 Master Member Last Online: Oct 1st, 2023 14:39 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: leics	Inner wing changes Does anyone know when inner front wing design changed during production or was different on different models. A few pics, and catalogue diagrams, i have show a ribbed section behind the wheel as it meets the bulkhead. Mine are smooth but have a strengthening triangular plate in this area (with about 30 spot welds). I did know that the strengthening plate was a later mod, but didn't realise the wing itself changed. Cheers

Apr 29th, 2021, 21:27	#2
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 14:24 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	The vertical part of the inner wing was originally part of the whole curved panel right down to the chassis rail. The long box section to which the wing bolts was a seperate part. Rust is common on both the vertical section and the box section. Standard repair is to fit a combined part that takes the place of both of them right back to the bulkhead. The original inner wing went back nearly to the bulkhead but at approx the deepest part it joined the bulkhead pressing. If the inner wing is original you will be able to see the join. The ribs are just stiffeners. The one on the passenger side (RHD) is the correct handy place to mount the Volvo servo bracket as it also good and rigid there. The bracket bridges the rib and the pre drilled holes often already there. Your tack welded triangle is just a patch repair.I t isn't the Volvo rally strengthening mod. That is at the bottom of the inner wing and triangulates the wing to the chassis.

May 1st, 2021, 12:31	#4
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 14:24 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	That is a version of the strengthening plate shown in one of Volvo's bulletins. It's to reduce the chance of cracking at that point when doing jumps when rallying. Because dirt and water can accumulate in that corner it is also prone to rust out the chassis member. A plate like this (maybe yours) shouldn't be used to plate over this area if it is rusted out. Please show us a clear picture with your report after removing it. If it is only on one side it was for repair and not rally reinforcement.

May 7th, 2021, 16:48	#6
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 14:24 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	I can't comment about the 2 triangular pressing in the inner wing shown in the parts pic. I might get to my Amazon sometime soon but perhaps someone like Mitch who has his Estate shell up on the rotisserie could take a picture of this area for reference? Creeping rust in the top of the chassis member due to dirt and water build up in that corner can often be well hidden so would weaken the structure there. The rally stiffeners came about when the cars were new so they weren't being modified for that reason. If there is no strength reducing rust and the car is for normal road use there is no need to add these stiffeners. They certainly won't do any harm though. Direct link https://volvo1800pictures.com/sb/8/8...g%20plates.htm Indirect link https://volvo1800pictures.com/PHPMak....php?start=141

May 8th, 2021, 00:26	#8
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 14:24 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	Picture #4 reminded me about the rather odd triangular plate in the corner. It seems more of a splash guard than a structural item. I think it's designed so that any water that gets behind it can drain back out. Thanks for posted the pictures Mitch I'm sure they will be useful.

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