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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Volvo 940 only blowing cold airViews : 2542 Replies : 50Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Mar 18th, 2021, 13:29 | #11 | |
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Comma X-Stream Flush seems to be no longer available though - Evapo-Rust C715 Thermocure looks like a good alternative. Have ordered a new thermostat - when it comes I'll run through the steps you suggested. I have a suspicion the coolant in the car might never have been changed in all its 29 years. It is the right colour though (blue/green, if you can still call it that). |
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Mar 18th, 2021, 13:47 | #12 |
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This gets good reviews for rad flushing https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Prestone-....c101197.m1850
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Mar 24th, 2021, 20:20 | #13 | |
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How poisonous is that coolant flush to wandering cats/others - just bearing in mind that ethylene glycol is notorious for causing irreversable kidney damage to cats (and we have two of the creatures at home)? Or is it the case that the 30-40 minutes of hose flushing will render the poison concentration sufficiently diluted that I'm worrying about nothing? Finally, how do you get rid of used ethylene glycol coolant - take it to the tip and pour it in the waste engine oil tank? |
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Mar 24th, 2021, 20:28 | #14 | ||
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The method i've always used is massive dilution, there are many wandering cats around here and none have ever been effected as far as i'm aware. As for the old anitfreeze, yes, catch as much as possible, into an old oil can and down the tip. I usually give the whole area a good hose down after to be on the safe side as well
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Mar 25th, 2021, 15:21 | #15 |
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Hi Laird Scooby - I followed your instructions to the letter. Flushed the system initially with Prestone Coolant Flush, followed by a drive, then anything up to an hour of running a hosepipe through the system. I then fitted a new Volvo OEM thermostat as directed and poured around 4 litres of new blue coolant into the coolant expansion bottle to the LHS of the engine. At that point, the coolant expansion bottle was almost full - over the max mark. I pumped the lower radiator hose which produced some air bubbles, but didn't reduce the coolant level in the bottle.
I took the car for a drive and got it up to operating temperature (maybe 10 mins). The temperature needle rose to a midway point - so the new thermostat is working here. However, the air coming out of the vents continues to be cold (cool-ish - certainly not hot) with the heater setting turned to max. Questions - I appreciate that no amount of draining/flushing will remove all the residual coolant or water lurking in the radiator or engine block, but surely 5-6 litres shouldn't be lurking there? Also - do I need to give the car a considerably longer run to get hot air to come out of the vents? I have an idea that the concentrated coolant in the the system won't assist warm air coming out - that's the job of the water you top it up with. The car is currently parked with the front end on ramps - maybe coolant is going to drain backwards from the radiator to the block and reduce the level in the bottle? |
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Mar 25th, 2021, 16:08 | #16 |
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Are you referring to the side vents as the air coming out of the two middle vents is always cool.
If you drain with the heater vent turned to fully warm you should get more than 4 litres out
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Mar 25th, 2021, 16:28 | #17 |
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Yes - I've checked all vents, middle and side. All are blowing cool air.
I drained the engine with the heater valve set to warm (as far as it would go). |
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Mar 25th, 2021, 16:50 | #18 |
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Thats odd ? I take it you drained from lower rad hose ? Did you measure how much came out on the first drain ?
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Mar 25th, 2021, 17:07 | #19 | |
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Altogether I managed to fill 8 litres in a bucket - although some ended up on the ground as i'm cack-handed. Assuming 9-10 litres came out of the system in total. I later flushed hosepipe water through the system for an hour. It could well be the case that there is still some of this water in the engine block, although I did drain it from the lower rad hose. I didn't bother to undo the hidden coolant screw after the hosepipe flush as it's a pain to access. I'll give the old girl a good blast this evening and see if she produces any warmer air. |
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Mar 25th, 2021, 17:10 | #20 | |
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*** EDIT *** this is after the flushing!!! That would have made room for more than 4L of coolant! You may have a massive air lock but i doubt it if you followed my directions. Can you find the two heater hoses feeding the heater matrix on the bulkhead and trace each one back to where they join the head and/or inlet manifold and the metal pipe that leads round the back end of the bloock, under the exhaust manifold and into the water pump? I suspect they may have been swapped at some point if you're still not getting heat out of the heater or the temperatue control isn't moving the flap and/or the heater valve on the inside. To check whether the heater valve is opening, push the heater temperature control to hot and then look at the heater valve. If memory serves where the cable attaches to the valve, the arm it attaches to should be in line with the two stubs for in and out.
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Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ Last edited by Laird Scooby; Mar 25th, 2021 at 17:14. Reason: Calrification |
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