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Cold starting problems

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Old Feb 6th, 2021, 17:00   #1
Japster
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Default Cold starting problems

Hi,

V50 2005 2.0D

I’m looking for some advice on my quest to get to the bottom of my cold starting issues.

Symptoms:
Under 7degs C - car will start then immediately stop after about 3 seconds
Repeat about 10 times, will eventually keep running

Over 7degs C - car will start 2nd time and keep running, 1st time it nearly starts

After reading fault codes I’ve changed:
Air Inlet Temp sensor - sensor head missing, car now runs better but fault remains
Glow Plug on cyl 4 - was open circuit, car starts a little better
Glow Plug Relay - no change after this

Yesterday I tested the fuel filter pre-heater - open circuit
How critical is this? Does this only come into play in extreme cold?

I’m noticing air bubbles in the fuel line after the filter, no leaks apparent on filter housing. Could this effect cold starting? Doesn’t effect running once started

I’m thinking of buying a proper Vida/dice setup but I’m unsure if I will find out anything more from it

Any help appreciated,

Craig

Last edited by Japster; Feb 6th, 2021 at 17:09.
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Old Feb 7th, 2021, 00:44   #2
37 RUBY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japster View Post
Hi,

V50 2005 2.0D

I’m looking for some advice on my quest to get to the bottom of my cold starting issues.

Symptoms:
Under 7degs C - car will start then immediately stop after about 3 seconds
Repeat about 10 times, will eventually keep running

Over 7degs C - car will start 2nd time and keep running, 1st time it nearly starts

After reading fault codes I’ve changed:
Air Inlet Temp sensor - sensor head missing, car now runs better but fault remains
Glow Plug on cyl 4 - was open circuit, car starts a little better
Glow Plug Relay - no change after this

Yesterday I tested the fuel filter pre-heater - open circuit
How critical is this? Does this only come into play in extreme cold?

I’m noticing air bubbles in the fuel line after the filter, no leaks apparent on filter housing. Could this effect cold starting? Doesn’t effect running once started

I’m thinking of buying a proper Vida/dice setup but I’m unsure if I will find out anything more from it

Any help appreciated,

Craig
Vida is a good idea.

What about fuel pressure? How about cycling the ignition on and off a few times to position 2, ie not starting it but ignition lights on to force the fuel pump to prime each time then see if there is marked improvement? If it does, at least it would give you a direction to look into ,whether that be the pump, injectors, fuel filter assembly ... Even so Vida is your friend.
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Old Feb 7th, 2021, 11:10   #3
Japster
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Originally Posted by 37 RUBY View Post
Vida is a good idea.

What about fuel pressure? How about cycling the ignition on and off a few times to position 2, ie not starting it but ignition lights on to force the fuel pump to prime each time then see if there is marked improvement? If it does, at least it would give you a direction to look into ,whether that be the pump, injectors, fuel filter assembly ... Even so Vida is your friend.
Thanks for the reply

Fuel rail pressure is constantly above 26000 kpa when running according to my ODBII reader, although I ought to check it pre starting condition.

Also the glow plug light & engine light flicks on and off combined with a relay sound if key left in ignition position 2 for any period of time.
The relay sound seems close, like it’s in the passenger cabin, or in the engine fuse box. Any ideas what relay this could be?

I’d still like to understand the purpose of the fuel filter pre-heater if anyone knows, it is something that I know is broken.

I’m looking to get a Vida ASAP
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Old Feb 7th, 2021, 12:58   #4
Clan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japster View Post
Hi,

V50 2005 2.0D

I’m looking for some advice on my quest to get to the bottom of my cold starting issues.

Symptoms:
Under 7degs C - car will start then immediately stop after about 3 seconds
Repeat about 10 times, will eventually keep running

Over 7degs C - car will start 2nd time and keep running, 1st time it nearly starts

After reading fault codes I’ve changed:
Air Inlet Temp sensor - sensor head missing, car now runs better but fault remains
Glow Plug on cyl 4 - was open circuit, car starts a little better
Glow Plug Relay - no change after this

Yesterday I tested the fuel filter pre-heater - open circuit
How critical is this? Does this only come into play in extreme cold?

I’m noticing air bubbles in the fuel line after the filter, no leaks apparent on filter housing. Could this effect cold starting? Doesn’t effect running once started

I’m thinking of buying a proper Vida/dice setup but I’m unsure if I will find out anything more from it

Any help appreciated,

Craig
Are you sure it is not the plastic throttle flap sticking shut ?
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Old Feb 7th, 2021, 13:16   #5
Japster
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Are you sure it is not the plastic throttle flap sticking shut ?
Hi Clan,

Thanks for the reply.

Would the car start if the throttle flap was jammed?
I did clean it all out when I changed the air inlet temp sensor, but I could give it a tap before trying.

My mate has a 2009 S40 with the throttle body issue and his will not fire at all until he taps the throttle body.

Do the throttle bodies wear out? My car has done 204000 miles
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Old Feb 7th, 2021, 14:17   #6
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Hi Clan,

Thanks for the reply.

Would the car start if the throttle flap was jammed?
I did clean it all out when I changed the air inlet temp sensor, but I could give it a tap before trying.

My mate has a 2009 S40 with the throttle body issue and his will not fire at all until he taps the throttle body.

Do the throttle bodies wear out? My car has done 204000 miles
yes it will fire up but run very rough and smoky with no response when you press the throttle . It will be well worn by now ... you need to prove it though .. tapping the housing with a light hammer might help do that ..
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Old Feb 7th, 2021, 16:31   #7
Japster
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yes it will fire up but run very rough and smoky with no response when you press the throttle . It will be well worn by now ... you need to prove it though .. tapping the housing with a light hammer might help do that ..
It occasionally starts and runs very rough, like it’s choking, smoke comes out from under the bonnet, like it’s back firing. Would this be a symptom of a stuck throttle valve?

When this happens I just turn it off and it goes fine next time around.

I do find I can’t Rev it until it decides whether or not it wants to continue running, once it gets past about 3 seconds of firing up the engine tone changes and I can then Rev it, if I try too early it just dies. Does this sound like throttle issues or is this just the norm when starting?

Cheers
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Old Feb 7th, 2021, 18:21   #8
37 RUBY
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Originally Posted by Japster View Post

Symptoms:
Under 7degs C - car will start then immediately stop after about 3 seconds
Repeat about 10 times, will eventually keep running

Over 7degs C - car will start 2nd time and keep running, 1st time it nearly starts
So to my untrained eye, it's a temperature dependant fault.

Does your generic obd reader show if the ambient temperature is similar to what the air temp & coolant temp sensors are registering prior to your attempts to start it?
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Old Feb 7th, 2021, 19:11   #9
Japster
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So to my untrained eye, it's a temperature dependant fault.

Does your generic obd reader show if the ambient temperature is similar to what the air temp & coolant temp sensors are registering prior to your attempts to start it?
Yes the ambient temp, air temp and coolant temp are all around the same values.

I’ve got some more codes off my reader today.
ECM-0605
ECM-060C

I’m guessing these are to do with the Engine Control Module?
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Old Feb 7th, 2021, 20:02   #10
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Originally Posted by Japster View Post
Yes the ambient temp, air temp and coolant temp are all around the same values.

I’ve got some more codes off my reader today.
ECM-0605
ECM-060C

I’m guessing these are to do with the Engine Control Module?
Yes, they are Engine Control Module codes.

Using this site https://en.bsr.se/read-more/dtc-codes to identify what they mean, shows the that
ECM-0605 = Engine control module (ECM). Internal fault

ECM-060C = Engine control module (ECM). Internal fault/Fuel injection system driver Faulty signal

I take you've already tried powering down the system, i.e. battery disconnected for an hour or so in the slim chance that it's a software glitch?
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