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940 GL fifty shades of grey turbo conversion

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Old Nov 22nd, 2020, 10:59   #21
360beast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
It's all progressing well Luke!
Thanks Dave, it has come quite far considering I haven't spent too much time on it as I'm doing the bathroom up at the same time.

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Originally Posted by loki_the_glt View Post
I regard the drawing of blood as a good portent for the job: no blood loss means I got something wrong...

BTW, my other half is a part-time vampire so looks upon fresh blood with relish (usually cranberry).
It's always the knuckles that get skinned on these cars I find.

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what an interesting update to a fascinating project thread. Thank you.
Alan
Thanks Alan

I forgot to say I've swapped in the turbo EZK as well and the trim is apart ready for me to drill out the security bolt that holds the ECU in place so I can swap that for a turbo one too.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2020, 13:15   #22
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I forgot to say I've swapped in the turbo EZK as well and the trim is apart ready for me to drill out the security bolt that holds the ECU in place so I can swap that for a turbo one too.
No need to drill the security bolt out as you can probably get it out with a mole grip. That is how I did it anyway.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2020, 17:22   #23
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No need to drill the security bolt out as you can probably get it out with a mole grip. That is how I did it anyway.
I have done that before too but find my mole grips a bit hit and miss for the job.

So today's job was to continue cleaning up the exhaust port mating faces.... no photo.

Replace the rear crank seal! So to start with I set the engine to number one TDC by putting the two missing dimples on the flywheel in the middle of the starter motor hole.


20201123_104134 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE



20201123_104223 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20201123_110605 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

I then gave it a clean up, also found all of the bolts loose on the seal housing and one was several threads loose! So they were all tightened up.


20201123_111317 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

Then the nice shiny resurfaced dogdish flywheel was fitted with new flywheel bolts torqued to 70nm


IMG-20201123-WA0017 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20201123_133612 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20201123_133600 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

Next up was the distributor seals, I thought I had taken a photo of the position of the rotor arm before removal... of course not so I had to study the photos I took of it dirty, so hopefully it is in the right place and it isn't 180 degrees out. If it is then at least it is just a simple job of two bolts, pull it forward a bit, rotate 180 degrees and refit.


20201123_121154 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20201123_121157 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20201123_122001 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20201123_122008 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20201123_122528 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20201123_122926 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


20201123_123945 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

EGR junk deleted!


20201123_130940 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE

Replace the thermostat seal... this one hasn't gone quite to plan as the thermostat is stuck inside the housing! So I've scraped away as much of the old seal and gunk around it as I can and left it soaking in wd40.

"New" wiper stalk arrived too as intermittent doesn't work unless you out a slight bit of pressure downwards on the stalk when it is in the intermittent position.


IMG-20201123-WA0023 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE


More parts arrived


20201123_122224 by Luke Ryland - Flickr2BBcode LITE
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Old Nov 23rd, 2020, 17:48   #24
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Excellent Luke, particularly the rear crank seal - mine isn't leaking but I might as well change it when I swap gearboxes.

Alan
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Old Nov 23rd, 2020, 18:28   #25
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If you look carefully at your photos Luke, you'll see the dizzy drive shaft is on an offset dog so won't be possible to get it 180deg out.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2020, 18:38   #26
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If you look carefully at your photos Luke, you'll see the dizzy drive shaft is on an offset dog so won't be possible to get it 180deg out.
I never noticed that but now you've said it it's clear as day! Thanks Dave
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Old Nov 23rd, 2020, 18:48   #27
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I never noticed that but now you've said it it's clear as day! Thanks Dave
You're welcome Luke, i know what it's like when you're concentrating on the bigger details, the small but obvious details aren't always easily spotted.
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Old Nov 24th, 2020, 11:46   #28
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Excellent Luke, particularly the rear crank seal - mine isn't leaking but I might as well change it when I swap gearboxes.

Alan
I was thinking forward to changing that rear seal on the RB when swapping the auto box Luke. Would I be right in thinking an auto box would have some sort of drive plate (with a starter ring attached) instead of the flywheel - but that it would come off in the same way?

Obviously it would make sense to change that seal while the gearbox is off.

Alan
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Old Nov 24th, 2020, 12:21   #29
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I was thinking forward to changing that rear seal on the RB when swapping the auto box Luke. Would I be right in thinking an auto box would have some sort of drive plate (with a starter ring attached) instead of the flywheel - but that it would come off in the same way?

Obviously it would make sense to change that seal while the gearbox is off.

Alan
Yes Alan, autos have a drive plate (sometimes called a flex-plate) instead of a more traditional flywheel. The torque converter serves the purpose of being the flywheel in terms of weight.

Worth investing in either new patch bolts or throughly cleaning the old ones and using some Loctite 243 threadlock before their final torquing when refitting.

I would suggest using your existing driveplate with the AW70/71 TC bolted to it on your B21A assuming the TC will bolt to it. I wouldn't be surprised to learn the PCD on the TC mounting bolts is different so that may mean you have to use a B230 driveplate. Also use a spot of Loctite 243 on the TC bolts on their final fitting.
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Old Nov 24th, 2020, 13:07   #30
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Yes Alan, autos have a drive plate (sometimes called a flex-plate) instead of a more traditional flywheel. The torque converter serves the purpose of being the flywheel in terms of weight.

Worth investing in either new patch bolts or throughly cleaning the old ones and using some Loctite 243 threadlock before their final torquing when refitting.

I would suggest using your existing driveplate with the AW70/71 TC bolted to it on your B21A assuming the TC will bolt to it. I wouldn't be surprised to learn the PCD on the TC mounting bolts is different so that may mean you have to use a B230 driveplate. Also use a spot of Loctite 243 on the TC bolts on their final fitting.
Thank you for that Dave, it is exactly the level of detail I'm looking for in my planning; part of the question was: where does the B21a stop and the AW71 start? - and I'm pleased to find out at this stage that there is some ambiguity over the TC/drive plate junction.

Alan
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