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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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V70 Rear Springs ChangeViews : 2432 Replies : 31Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 20th, 2022, 12:15 | #21 |
trying to be helpful
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Location: Dagenham
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this is getting confusing.. OP (Tam9n) IS using non oem i think
latest comment from jnmonaghan was just advising him where to get the info for correct oem I've just been looking on autodoc for reference puposes and have found at least 3 different types, there's self levelling and non self levelling systems for a start, then there were 2 with distincly different end coil designs (unless that was just a case of 'picture may vary from actual product') would definitely go back to that VIN plate and check what type yours needs http://www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s60-...code-meanings/ and then use VIDA (or ring the stealership) for the right part number if they're willing to give it out, some aren't |
Jun 20th, 2022, 14:40 | #22 |
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Note to self, take note of who the o.p. is.
Thank you Stuart, this older chap was beginning to think he was even more dim than he is. |
Jun 20th, 2022, 15:50 | #23 | |
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Quote:
Last edited by Simmy; Jun 20th, 2022 at 15:59. Reason: more info |
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Jun 20th, 2022, 18:50 | #24 |
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Last Online: Aug 14th, 2022 13:04
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Hi all, so yes I grabbed the number from my vin plate and the rear springs is denoted as “27”
Rang a main dealer and they passed on the OEM part number which was 30748382. Ordered a corresponding spring online “Kilen 66007” which has slightly different dimensions to the sprint I had ordered. The incorrect springs I purchased were KYB RA7007, which just don’t appear to fit. I have a set of internal sealey spring compressors, and tried every trick in the book with these to no avail so concluded the spring was simply incorrect for the application. Done plenty of rear springs accords various platforms before never with any issues. I will update in a few days the outcome, as I hate coming across a thread with no conclusion! |
Jun 21st, 2022, 09:03 | #25 |
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It is not unusual for the wrong items to be put in the right box, the link for 7007 springs shows a video for fitting front springs. Front springs have a reduced i.d at the top so you would have noticed that.
The links you have posted share quite comprehensive dimensions which make a degree of sense, one lists a free-length of 339 mm and 15mm wire thickness, the other lists 325 mm and 16mm wire thickness. Both list 5 1/4 total coils. The 16mm wire thickness will be a higher rate spring though easier to fit. Once again good luck. |
Jun 24th, 2022, 17:38 | #26 |
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Hi all,
Just wanted to share some feedback incase it proves useful for someone else but I finally got the new spring in! Recap: I had a nightmare try to change a spring lately, I ordered a KYB RA7007 (which is heavy duty which I didn’t realise until afterwards!). I used internal spring compressors and every trick in the book, dropping control arms etc but to no avail. The issue I had was getting the top and bottom aligned, and the bottom popped right back out. Ordered a Kilen 66007, and it went straight in. 1) I can confirm I also did it this time by dropping the inner (closest to the exhaust) bolt for the control arm. While having a trolley jack underneath, then released the tension. 2) used tape to wrap the rubber top mounting to the new spring. 3) pushing down on the control arm allowed me eventually to wiggle the new spring roughly into place. 4) I used fairy liquid on the rubber mount at the top, and slowly started to used a scissor jack under the hub. 5) at the same time I used my trolley jack further in on the control arm to slowly lift the control arm and compress the spring. 6) by juggling the height of the two jacks, I got the bolt back in most of the way at the inner console bolt hole. (Note, jacking under the hub with the scissor jack allows the control arm to pull a little outward towards the hub 7) getting the bolt lined up with the thread portion of the hub takes some juggling again. Once I had the console bolt mostly in, I removed the trolley jack from under the inner console arm, and put it under the hub. I then used my scissor jack to help move the console arm as needed. In my case, I put a block of wood on the arch liner, then my scissor jack against the brake caliper and manipulated the arm enough to get the bolt in and threaded. 8.) I compressed the new strut a few times, then quickly posted it up in whole compressed and then bolted it in. 9) jack up to put everything under load then tighten up and bolts, bolt up new drop link etc! Comparing the KYB against the Kilen, the KYB was not only a good portion heavier, but also a little taller too. The pigtails appeared to stop in slightly different places too, which I always get wasn’t quite right with the KYB spring. To note, I replaced a stock spring without using my internal spring compressors in the end.. so it can be done! But please make sure you do what you’re comfortable with! All in all, once I had the correct spring - this really wasn’t too bad. Thanks for ALL the help and suggestions folks! |
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Jun 24th, 2022, 20:15 | #28 |
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Congratulations, I can see the smug look from here.
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Jun 30th, 2022, 23:27 | #29 |
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When I did this job I removed the shock absorber and fitted two standard spring compressors inside the spring and did a lot of spanner twirling to compress the spring.
Worked fine and like most sane people, I have a deep seated fear of compressed suspension springs and a reasonably keen sense of self preservation. Charles |
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Jul 1st, 2022, 02:04 | #30 |
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I think just being aware of the danger is enough, and always being aware of trajectory..
A shotgun is only dangerous if its pointed at someone.. Similarly the spring will decompress rapidly along one axis just make sure none of your body parts are in the way |
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