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300/66 Series General Forum for the Volvo 340, 360 and 66 cars |
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340 1.4 Carb Idle Solenoid?Views : 2007 Replies : 8Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 19th, 2006, 13:12 | #1 |
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340 1.4 Carb Idle Solenoid?
I replaced the carb on my 340 3 years ago, but this week the idle became very slow and unpredictable on the way to work.
I have tweaked the idle mixture rich and it is OK now. Does anyone know how long the idle solenoids on these last? Am I about due to change it? John & Christina 340CVT |
Jul 19th, 2006, 17:09 | #2 |
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dunno, but we've not had to change or alter the idle solenoids on ours. Are you sure its not an air leak?
Also give the carb a good clean with carb cleaner. Volvo300mania has a great post on how to check your carb is working correctly. http://www.volvo300mania.com/forum-u...opic.php?t=571 The first post is useful, but there follows a discussion on all the common carb problems. |
Oct 5th, 2006, 07:52 | #3 |
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I had to fit 2 idle solenoids on my old 340 1.4 over a period of about 4 years. They tend to get a bit intermittently 'lazy' after a while. Symptoms are usually engine cutting out/very low revs pulling up to a junction or roundabout etc. If you pull the cable off and on it with ignition switched on, it should make a clicking sound if it's working. They are not expensive to buy and very easy to fit, so for the sake of a few quid, I'd fit a replacement anyway. Don't forget to reset your mixture back to normal once you've changed it too.
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Oct 19th, 2006, 22:42 | #4 |
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I used to have the similar problem on my old 360 GL, 1987 B200k. It turned out to be the leakage between the carb and the plastic heat insulating flange under it. Two consecutive changes of the flange and ruber gasket went broken soon, then finally it was found that the lower surface of the carb which contact the flange bent upward about 1 mm that led the leak and uneven presure on the flange and broke the newly replaced plastic flange shortly. After grounding the surface to level, everything was OK. The car was eaten away by rust two years ago though.
Vince |
Oct 24th, 2006, 23:43 | #5 |
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My 340 has this problem, although it's dirt in the idle solenoid (actually mayo from a blown HG, but that's another story...!). It might be worth trying to clean it (compressed air / fluid like carb cleaner/WD40) before chucking it away.
You can of course test the solenoid by removing it from the carb, but holding it against the carb body so it is still grounded, then firing the ignition. It should reliably let out a firm click. cheers James |
Oct 25th, 2006, 13:04 | #6 |
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Manky Engine Running
The solenoid was fine.
I changed the spark plugs and it's all OK now!!! |
Oct 25th, 2006, 20:17 | #7 |
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Haha, d'oh! Totally isolated running problems can have near-identical symptoms, and it can be very misleading, especially if you have more than one car, and the symptoms manifest themselves differently on the different engines.
cheers James |
Oct 29th, 2006, 01:32 | #8 |
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hi
I'd also check the connection to fuse number 10 and the wiring to the solenoid as these can cause the same result / fault as if the solenoid itself wasnt working I've had probs with cutting out on slowing to junctions or dodgy idle caused by either a blown fuse 10 or fuse 10 slipped out of place in the fuse box... all the best shimon ( ps cant remeber what else fuse 10 is used for - also havent got my manual here!) |
Oct 31st, 2006, 00:21 | #9 |
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Just for the info of those reading... the manual isn't totally correct for fuse 10, I found mine blew when I switched carbs over last week as teh ciggy lighter and rear wiper stopped... Car still ran fine with the idle solenoid blocknig the fuel lines (as I'd just put the carb on, and was tuning it with the solenoid not active)
Fixed the problem, and was running super rich and idling at 2.5k! Still, goes to prove it'd cause issues on a well set up car |
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