V40 rear pads wear indicator + other stuff!

[Umski]

Hello folks, yet again I found myself turning to the forums to check something but happy to report something back that might be of help to someone else

One of the rear pads (passenger side) had made its way down to the backing plates as I was driving to London the other day - needless to say the graunching sound wasn't pleasant so maximum engine braking was used to good effect.

I have had new pads for some time now and thought the discs were good too (until this incident) thinking that I needed the wind back tool before I could do it - I ordered one anyway and then stripped down the offending side before it arrived - as a test I was able to wind the piston in (CLOCKWISE which I wasn't able to determine anywhere) using a pair of mole grips and an F-clamp so tool not needed! The best thing to do is to open up the bleed nipple - this also gets rid of all the manky brake fluid that gets stuck behind the piston even if the fluid has been flushed through (I discovered this on the fronts!). Use the F-clamp (or G) to squeeze the piston and then turn it with the molegrips, every half turn or so tighten up the clamp. I did the same on the driver's side so as and when the tool arrives I might just send it back although it was only 7 quid on Amazon (labelled as a right-handed version)

Second thing - the new pads come with 4 clips and two bolts - turns out the clips are the wear indicators (not fitted on the old hence the wear down to backing plates) and nowhere could I find how to orient these other than the description here (http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=89129) but as the outer pad is visible and the caliper would foul the clips, I figured both can go on the inner in case of uneven wear - makes sense in the photo below (driver's side inner). No idea why only 2 bolts are supplied for an axle set when there are 4 in total holding the caliper on - I re-used the old ones :s

IMG_5627.jpg

Here's an interesting pic of the mess the disc/pad backing plate made as all the iron filings got stuck to the ABS sensor (I changed both discs anyway as they were past being re-used!)

IMG_5628.jpg

A question - there is a tie rod that connects into the arch area (I didn't take a pic in the excitement of reassembly) and the bush which looks like a bow tie is past its best on both sides (mentioned during the MOT) - what are these called and are they easy to replace (am thinking seized bolts + tight tolerance on the bush)?

Thanks!

[ITSv40]

Useful post Only two bolts are supplied per axle set as the supplier assumes you will undo one bolt and swing the calliper up and fit the new pads, swing the calliper down into position and fit new bolt. Talk about making a simple job difficult for the sake of a 5p bolt.

The tie rods are easy enough to replace if the bolts come undone, if not, they are a real bitch to do. From memory I don't think the long upper rod is adjustable, but the lower short one is and the inner adjustable bolt can seize. If it is the lower rod being replaced the suspension geometry needs checking afterwards.

[Umski]

Originally Posted by ITSv40

Useful post Only two bolts are supplied per axle set as the supplier assumes you will undo one bolt and swing the calliper up and fit the new pads, swing the calliper down into position and fit new bolt. Talk about making a simple job difficult for the sake of a 5p bolt.

I wonder if anyone in the history of mankind has ever successfully been able to do that, considering the amount of huffing and puffing needed to remove the old pads and then wind the piston back in (assuming it's not a brand new set already) :bangshead: - thanks - it's reassuring that I wasn't losing the plot - they were Bosch pads as well - tight buggers

The tie rods are easy enough to replace if the bolts come undone, if not, they are a real bitch to do. From memory I don't think the long upper rod is adjustable, but the lower short one is and the inner adjustable bolt can seize. If it is the lower rod being replaced the suspension geometry needs checking afterwards.

It's just the top bushes that attach to the chassis behind the wheelarch (I presume) but was wondering if anyone has done just the bush (looks like a bow tie) - the bolts are quite embedded in the arch so I'm thinking long extension - I do have an air gun so that might come in handy - I've doused them all in penetrating fluid already...

[ITSv40]

Originally Posted by Umski

I wonder if anyone in the history of mankind has ever successfully been able to do that, considering the amount of huffing and puffing needed to remove the old pads and then wind the piston back in (assuming it's not a brand new set already) :bangshead: - thanks - it's reassuring that I wasn't losing the plot - they were Bosch pads as well - tight buggers



It's just the top bushes that attach to the chassis behind the wheelarch (I presume) but was wondering if anyone has done just the bush (looks like a bow tie) - the bolts are quite embedded in the arch so I'm thinking long extension - I do have an air gun so that might come in handy - I've doused them all in penetrating fluid already...

I'm not sure if separate bushes are available or not, usually it is a case of replace the whole tie rod.

[pierremcalpine]

Volvo calls these tie-rods control links. They are easy enough to get out but be careful not to over torque the two screws that bolt directly into the inner side of the sway arm. If you mess up the threading you will have to cut open the sway arm from the other side and manually put a nut in. Be sure to use a wire brush on the camber bolts and make a notch to mark the alignment (I used a dremel). You should be able to put the new bolt in pretty close to the original.

Brace yourself if you need to replace any of the camber bolts...they must be made of gold or something.

If your are going to use an air gun on the camber bolts don't be an idiot like me - make sure you work on getting the nut off, not the bolt as the bolt is fixed in with the asymmetric washer.

[Umski]

Originally Posted by pierremcalpine

Volvo calls these tie-rods control links. They are easy enough to get out but be careful not to over torque the two screws that bolt directly into the inner side of the sway arm. If you mess up the threading you will have to cut open the sway arm from the other side and manually put a nut in. Be sure to use a wire brush on the camber bolts and make a notch to mark the alignment (I used a dremel). You should be able to put the new bolt in pretty close to the original.

Brace yourself if you need to replace any of the camber bolts...they must be made of gold or something.

If your are going to use an air gun on the camber bolts don't be an idiot like me - make sure you work on getting the nut off, not the bolt as the bolt is fixed in with the asymmetric washer.

Thanks, it's only the upper link (longer one) that's the problem if we're referring to the same thing - the bush circled in red below are the ones that are duff. When you say camber bolt, the one in green (which I presume will need removing to access the link) doesn't seem to be eccentric but then the nut does appear to have some notches on it?

v40rear.png

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by Umski

Thanks, it's only the upper link (longer one) that's the problem if we're referring to the same thing - the bush circled in red below are the ones that are duff. When you say camber bolt, the one in green (which I presume will need removing to access the link) doesn't seem to be eccentric but then the nut does appear to have some notches on it?

Attachment 95502

Hmmm, it does not look like the upper member has a camber bolt on it. You can see from the drawing that the shorter one does. You should be fine with a simply replacement. Pretty sure that you cannot get the bushes only. That is a full replacement. Take a good look at all 4 links to make sure play in one is not resulting in wear on another.

[TEEKIZZLE]

Megan racing makes an upper control link that is adjustable. (They make a the smaller one also)

[bimmer49]

I've recently replaced my tie rods, both sides. The upper, longer tie rod has fixed positioning. The inner two bolts were easy to remove and spotless when they came out. The external nut and bolt was tight and rusty but came out in the end.
The lower tie rod, short one, has 2 bolts into the trailing arm that can come out easily. The inner one can be a real f*&^%^r, requiring cutting out with a disc cutter, reciprocating saw etc etc. IF you need to remove this, wire brush off the nut side (that you can see) and mark the washer somehow and mark the chassis. When you reassemble, clean the bolt head too and copy the mark you have put on the other end with the nut. I.E. Put the mark at 6 o'clock and when you put the bolt back in put it at 6 o'clock, then the washer for the nut at 6 o'clock. Tighten the nut and not the bolt. When tight, ensure everything is still at 6 o'clock.
Put PLENTY of anti-seize grease on the bolts/washers and bush bores. You know it makes sense.
Monitor tyre wear in the near future (inner edges etc). Someone may have geometry figures so that if you take it for alignment you have the data to give to the workshop.
My check is to put a set square against the centre of the wheel on the ground (after a road test, no load inside and at rest without handbrake) and a small spirit level on top. Note the bubble position and compare with the other side. Trial and error with the cam bolts you can match them up. Too much wear on the inside of the tyre, bring the arm in a little and vice versa. A geometry kit is available on t'internet for about 15 smackeroonies.