Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General > PV, 120, 1800 Articles

Notices

PV, 120, 1800 Articles How to's and Guides for the PV, 120, 1800 series.

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Lead loading...

Views : 13043

Replies : 0

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Nov 2nd, 2008, 15:25   #1
Gordon Hunter
Ex 1800 Register Keeper
 
Gordon Hunter's Avatar
 

Last Online: Apr 29th, 2022 18:04
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Central Scotland
Default Lead loading...

A couple of forum members have expressed interest in how led loading is done.
It's not much harder than using body filler, but the advantages are far greater in that it gives a permanent repair that is more flexible than filler.

Lead dust is highly toxic. Great care should be taken to wear proper breathing aparatus and to keep children and pets well away from any lead dust. Lead dust should always be vaccumed up afterwards as brushing will only cause lead dust to become airborne and spread further afield.

The following photos give an overview of a simple repair which should be well within the grasp of most enthusiasts.

This door is from an Amazon. It has started to rust out around where the wing mirror was mounted. As it is a right hand drive car a left hand mirror isn't required in this case.
I have used a grinder with a flap wheel on it to remove the paint and surface rust.


Next, I'm going to fill in the hole with the MIG welder.

As copper is a good conductor and wont weld to steel, a small piece is clamped in behind the hole in order to keep the repair flat on the inside...







The repair is now ground flat again from the outside with the flap wheel. If possible, it is a good idea to sand blast the work area and make sure that any residual rust has been completely removed.

Next, the area to be leaded has to be 'tinned' with a special flux paste which cleans any remaining impurities off the repair surface and leaves a rough keyed area for the lead to stick to. The flux paste is heated until golden brown and then washed off with a rag and clean water leaving the resulting surface...



The lead is then heated until globules of it drop off onto the repair area. (If your repair area is on a vertical plane, then this has to be pushed into the repair in a circular motion so that blobs of lead start to cool and adhere to the surface.)...



The lead is re-heated carefully on the panel (too much heat can warp the surrounding panel) and smoothed flat into the repair with a wooden padle soaked in tallow to prevent the wood from burning...



Once the lead settles into a reasonable flat repair and cools, it can be filed down with a body file and then sanded smooth ready for primer...



Gordon Hunter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:55.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.