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Blown hg on the 144.

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Old Mar 10th, 2009, 21:21   #21
Citizen.Agfa
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Interested to hear about the timing of this problem, in relation to getting the inlet manifold gasket changed.

I would not have thought a gasket leak would have caused HG failure, but it's possible I suppose. Running lean on one cyl, detonation/heat frying something?

The other thing that occurs to me is does it have a water heated inlet manifold, like some 164s and 240s?

If so, there could be a different link between your gasket change and the overheating. Maybe the new gasket was faulty, or slightly the wrong spec, and blocked a water-way through the manifold? Maybe it had one of those pre-cut "holes" where you have to push out a bit of the gasket before fitting; may not have been done?

John
Dry I'm afraid, John.

Will go up Saturday to suss out the heater. It's not the end of the world to change one, just bloody fiddly.

As to the compressing problem, maybe we should run the h/c test AFTER it cooks up the next time, what d'you think?

Thanks again, Nick.
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Old Mar 10th, 2009, 21:58   #22
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As to the compressing problem, maybe we should run the h/c test AFTER it cooks up the next time, what d'you think?
Yes, worth a try.

The heater bursting may possibly be significant. Partially blocked? Crap moved when things were refurbed blocking the matrix and causing poor flow and pressure build up?

Worth trying it one more time with the heater replaced (but careful not to blow up your new matrix!)

If not, I think you may get to the stage of taking the head off for a look.

Have you tried on turbobricks or brickboard? The hotter parts of the US may have more experience with b20 overheating issues.

John
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Old Mar 10th, 2009, 22:16   #23
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Yes, worth a try.

The heater bursting may possibly be significant. Partially blocked? Crap moved when things were refurbed blocking the matrix and causing poor flow and pressure build up?

Worth trying it one more time with the heater replaced (but careful not to blow up your new matrix!)

If not, I think you may get to the stage of taking the head off for a look.

Have you tried on turbobricks or brickboard? The hotter parts of the US may have more experience with b20 overheating issues.

John
I'm beginning to think that having the head off is the only way I'm going to satisfy my curiosity. As to the heater, I'll run the car up with a piece of copper pipe in place of the heater, see what that does for the grand scheme of things.

Up the wooden hill to Bedfordshire the noo, early start y fori.

Thanks again, Nick.
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Old Mar 11th, 2009, 00:05   #24
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In a situation like this I find a cylinder leakage test far better than a compression check. it's even worth paying a garage to do this if you can't do it yourself. Don't forget to do it while it's hot.

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Old Mar 11th, 2009, 00:31   #25
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Could it be that someone has dropped something like a piece of old gasket down one of the openings to the cooling system?

When I recently had my (water heated) inlet manifold off, I forgot to plug the coolant inlet/outlet whilst I cleaned all the old gasket off the head. I then started worrying whether i had dropped any old gasket material into the head! Still could have done! Havent had chance to properly test yet!

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Old Mar 21st, 2009, 22:43   #26
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Nick,

Any developments with the steaming 144?

John
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Old Mar 22nd, 2009, 01:03   #27
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Went up there today and got the temp gauge working (which helps) and also, while furgling around behind the dash found that the hoses to the heater were held in place by willpower alone, as the guy who re-mounted it after it was cleaned and checked had omitted to tighten up the jubilee clips - yes, I know I should have checked it, but I didn't, OK? - so they were tightened up (the bonus to that being that when the system dumped I would guess it dumped through unsecured hoses rather than rupturing the matrix), filled the system with best quality rainwater, fired it up and tried again. Slowly but surely, up went the gauge until it was high in the red. Checked the hoses, they were cold so it is looking more and more like a circulation problem which will be addressed Monday next.

Don't touch that dial!

C.A.
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Old Apr 4th, 2009, 21:12   #28
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Right, apologies for absence, what with one thing and another (PC in outpatients and assorted other probs) I have neglected this thread, but now, at last, here is the news!

Took replacement thermostat out, and fitted a 740 stat with the moving parts removed - have to have the body of a stat in situ to mount the rubber sealing gasket - filled the system and cranked up; up went the gauge, stopping just in the normal area. Took the car for a run, in fact I drove it the seven miles home, bled the air out of the system, replaced the cap and turned the engine off. No overheating, no pressurising of the system, just cool running (according to the gauge, but more on that later).

On a whim I decided to compare the new and old stat; bugger me if the new stat wasn't 4-5 mm taller than the old one - don't know if that is important but felt you ought to know. That got me thinking (rare,I know!) so out comes the dummy stat and back in goes stat No 1 (the original one) for evaluation purposes.

Started the engine, watched the needle toodle up into the red zone, bled the air out of the tank and thought "hmmm, there is no pressure in the system (soft hoses), water appears to be circulating, maybe the gauge is faulty?"

For the next hour or so I bimbled around Lampeter just gently driving, listening out for the dreaded hissing of steam escaping and not hearing it; decided to take the big chance and drive over to the garage with needle in the red! That was one nerve wracking journey, I can tell you! I'd felt reasonably content poodling about Lampeter, 'cos if the car blew up, well, I could always walk home but now, ah, the joys of the open (wet) road; every patch of standing water I drove through sounded just like hissing steam; crikey,by the time I got to Malcolm's I couldn't unclamp my fingers from the steering wheel and as for the clenched buttocks, don't ask!

So, where are we now? Essentially, waiting for a replacement instrument binnacle to arrive from the Smoke so I can prove my thesis on the gauges. Gauges, plural,you notice; the fuel gauge has now handed in the dinner pail so I have one gauge firmly pointing left, and one firmly pointing right - ah, symmetry!

The joys of period motoring,eh? Doncha luvvit!!

Steaming Sid Agfa.
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Old Apr 4th, 2009, 21:21   #29
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If its the same type of system as a 200 series (I assume it is) for the petrol and temperature gauges, the voltage stablizer on the back of the instrument cluster can be prone to failing. This makes both gauges read high/oddly.

Judging by your latest post - id take bets on it being that!

EDIT: By the way, check my project thread - ive been having similar problems and replaced the voltage stabilizer last week (although it didnt make any difference!)

Steve

P.S: its just a little 1" x 2" box with 3 spade connectors fastened on the back of the two gaues
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Old Apr 4th, 2009, 21:56   #30
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If its the same type of system as a 200 series (I assume it is) for the petrol and temperature gauges, the voltage stablizer on the back of the instrument cluster can be prone to failing. This makes both gauges read high/oddly.

Judging by your latest post - id take bets on it being that!

EDIT: By the way, check my project thread - ive been having similar problems and replaced the voltage stabilizer last week (although it didnt make any difference!)

Steve

P.S: its just a little 1" x 2" box with 3 spade connectors fastened on the back of the two gaues
What-ho, Steve.

I have been following your thread for many moons and your probs with the voltage regulator caused a pang or two for me; I've already changed mine, got it from Simon at Brookhouse and it made no bl**dy difference!

My mate Tim now has TWO 142s and as he's stripping one of them for track fun he said I can have a set of clocks (which I'm sure has 0 to do with the fact that I have a pair of series one steel wings in my shed!) so when they arrive I'll be posting on here as soon as they are fitted.

Nick.
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