Engine starts but will not run - Page 2

VolvoS4 · Dec 23rd, 2011, 15:48

After reading this thread from start to end, it appears that you have eliminated spark & fuel problems.

have you tried removing the air filter and then running the engine? a starvation of air will cause the engine to cut out if the engine requires more oxegen that cant be delivered.

woolfie1948 · Dec 23rd, 2011, 16:27

Thanks for that suggestion - I will give it a try over the weekend.
I am however now working on the old addage that if something was working and then stops working look at the last thing you touched before it stopped.
The car was running (but pinking badly) and I took the dizzy off and sent it away to be checked. The only other thing I can remember doing was putting new gaskets between the petrol pump and the block, and since then I have changed the pump, inline filter and flexible pipes, and tried without success to run on a gravity feed fuel supply.
That takes me back to the dizzy itself that had the advance/retard curve modified while away. I have substituted all the bits (points, condensor,rotor, cap) I can think of without success. If the timing is so far out as to cause this (set static of course) then I don't think it would start at all.
So now I am begining to suspect the dizzy itself, after-all the engine was running and car driving before it was modified, but I don't know if there is anything inside it that could give these symptoms?
I was going to try to substitute another dizzy but as luck would have it the one I bought on ebay got lost in the post and never arrived so I will have to wait now till after the holidays to contact the people who did the work.
An alternative is if anyone has a known working dizzy they are happy to sell then please make contact.
I am still open to any other suggestions of course.

davidw6092 · Dec 23rd, 2011, 17:18

I would be tempted to run a spare spark plug loose on the top of the engine and see it sparks o.k all the time the engine is running,arm through window to turn key and closely watch spark.Engine will obviously only be running on 3 cylinders,but look to see if the spark dies before the engine stops.i dont know if there is a ballast resistor in the circuit,but a small jump lead to + on the coil from + on the battery will by-pass any ballast and also rule out ignition switch.I have a distrust of rotor arms at the moment,have you an old one to try?Best of luck dave

woolfie1948 · Dec 23rd, 2011, 17:44

Thanks for your suggestions Dave.
Unfotunately engine will not run with all plugs in for more than 1-2 seconds now.
I have tried 3 different rotor arms.
It does have a ballast resistor (the coil is about six months old) but did not change it when I did the coil and to tell the truth not sure how they affect the engine when running.

Steve940estate · Dec 24th, 2011, 02:13

I was going to suggest the coil, I've had them gradually die on me before, check it's the right one to be using with a ballast resistor.
I have read somewhere about someone fitting new fuel pump gaskets that were too thick and this held the pump too far away from the camshaft.

john h · Dec 24th, 2011, 07:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve940estate

I have read somewhere about someone fitting new fuel pump gaskets that were too thick and this held the pump too far away from the camshaft.

^^That rings a bell with me from the distant past.

I'm no expert on these things but I'm inclined against the dizzy being the cause. It does give enough spark at the right time for the engine to start, albeit only briefly.

Try starting it whilst someone is spraying easy-start in through the carbs. If that keeps it running, it points towards a fuelling issue.

Keep plugging away at it; you'll get there in the end!

John

davidw6092 · Dec 24th, 2011, 12:12

If your car does have a ballast resistor in the circuit that would give you the same symptoms you have if it has failed.The ballast resistor is by-passed when turning the key to the start position.Hence trying hot wiring directly to the battery to eliminate that possibility.dave

woolfie1948 · Dec 24th, 2011, 13:01

Thank you DAVIDW I am happy but baffled!
My engine runs!
How this ballast resistor failed while the car was sitting waiting for the dizzy to come back I do not know - but it must have done!
Thanks again I do not think I would ever have found this without your help and must admit felt very dubious about trying it.
I suppose I now have to find a new ballast resistor or Iseem to have a memory of a vauxhall viva about 30years ago having a faulty coil on a Sunday and the only one available was a non ballast type so the mechanic did something to make it work.
Any suggestions on best way to proceed now appreciated, and my thanks to ALL who responded - it really is a boost to know others are willing to help when you are standing out in a cold garage completely baffled.
Jonathan

940_Turbo · Dec 25th, 2011, 03:13

Personally I'd do away with the ballast resistor and fit a 12 volt coil. I'm amazed your car still had one, most of them got removed decades ago.

arcturus · Dec 25th, 2011, 09:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by 940_Turbo

Personally I'd do away with the ballast resistor and fit a 12 volt coil. I'm amazed your car still had one, most of them got removed decades ago.

I agree. A good Bosch high performance coil will give a nice big fat spark.

Dec 23rd, 2011, 17:18	#13
davidw6092 Senior Member Last Online: Oct 4th, 2023 06:43 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Banbury	sparks I would be tempted to run a spare spark plug loose on the top of the engine and see it sparks o.k all the time the engine is running,arm through window to turn key and closely watch spark.Engine will obviously only be running on 3 cylinders,but look to see if the spark dies before the engine stops.i dont know if there is a ballast resistor in the circuit,but a small jump lead to + on the coil from + on the battery will by-pass any ballast and also rule out ignition switch.I have a distrust of rotor arms at the moment,have you an old one to try?Best of luck dave

Dec 24th, 2011, 12:12	#17
davidw6092 Senior Member Last Online: Oct 4th, 2023 06:43 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Banbury	Ballast resistor If your car does have a ballast resistor in the circuit that would give you the same symptoms you have if it has failed.The ballast resistor is by-passed when turning the key to the start position.Hence trying hot wiring directly to the battery to eliminate that possibility.dave

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Dec 23rd, 2011, 15:48	#11
VolvoS4 Junior Member Last Online: Apr 5th, 2014 16:52 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Swansea	After reading this thread from start to end, it appears that you have eliminated spark & fuel problems. have you tried removing the air filter and then running the engine? a starvation of air will cause the engine to cut out if the engine requires more oxegen that cant be delivered.

Dec 23rd, 2011, 16:27	#12
woolfie1948 Senior Member Last Online: Jul 5th, 2021 21:30 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: watford	Thanks for that suggestion - I will give it a try over the weekend. I am however now working on the old addage that if something was working and then stops working look at the last thing you touched before it stopped. The car was running (but pinking badly) and I took the dizzy off and sent it away to be checked. The only other thing I can remember doing was putting new gaskets between the petrol pump and the block, and since then I have changed the pump, inline filter and flexible pipes, and tried without success to run on a gravity feed fuel supply. That takes me back to the dizzy itself that had the advance/retard curve modified while away. I have substituted all the bits (points, condensor,rotor, cap) I can think of without success. If the timing is so far out as to cause this (set static of course) then I don't think it would start at all. So now I am begining to suspect the dizzy itself, after-all the engine was running and car driving before it was modified, but I don't know if there is anything inside it that could give these symptoms? I was going to try to substitute another dizzy but as luck would have it the one I bought on ebay got lost in the post and never arrived so I will have to wait now till after the holidays to contact the people who did the work. An alternative is if anyone has a known working dizzy they are happy to sell then please make contact. I am still open to any other suggestions of course.

Dec 23rd, 2011, 17:44	#14
woolfie1948 Senior Member Last Online: Jul 5th, 2021 21:30 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: watford	Thanks for your suggestions Dave. Unfotunately engine will not run with all plugs in for more than 1-2 seconds now. I have tried 3 different rotor arms. It does have a ballast resistor (the coil is about six months old) but did not change it when I did the coil and to tell the truth not sure how they affect the engine when running.

Dec 24th, 2011, 02:13	#15
Steve940estate Steam Driven PC Owner. Last Online: Mar 4th, 2024 23:50 Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Not sure.	I was going to suggest the coil, I've had them gradually die on me before, check it's the right one to be using with a ballast resistor. I have read somewhere about someone fitting new fuel pump gaskets that were too thick and this held the pump too far away from the camshaft.

Dec 24th, 2011, 13:01	#18
woolfie1948 Senior Member Last Online: Jul 5th, 2021 21:30 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: watford	Thank you DAVIDW I am happy but baffled! My engine runs! How this ballast resistor failed while the car was sitting waiting for the dizzy to come back I do not know - but it must have done! Thanks again I do not think I would ever have found this without your help and must admit felt very dubious about trying it. I suppose I now have to find a new ballast resistor or Iseem to have a memory of a vauxhall viva about 30years ago having a faulty coil on a Sunday and the only one available was a non ballast type so the mechanic did something to make it work. Any suggestions on best way to proceed now appreciated, and my thanks to ALL who responded - it really is a boost to know others are willing to help when you are standing out in a cold garage completely baffled. Jonathan

Dec 25th, 2011, 03:13	#19
940_Turbo . Last Online: Jul 14th, 2013 14:28 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: MK	Personally I'd do away with the ballast resistor and fit a 12 volt coil. I'm amazed your car still had one, most of them got removed decades ago.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)