240 General: New 240 suspension/engine advice

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

All good advice Dave, but I think this has been a thinking aloud exercise for Olly. He is just acquired an interesting car and is floating ideas about what he should do with it. From what he has told us, it would seem he does not have the cash to do any serious modifications, so the 250HP bit is just a pipe dream.

I think it is marvellous that a young chap (which I assume he is) at university likes the same motor cars as us old fogeys, and has taken the time to join this forum and float a few ideas (even if they sink quickly). I hope we will hear from Olly for years to come and that his 244DL becomes a fixture on our forum.

That was a very good point about not cutting suspension coils!

Alan

That was the impression i got Alan, floating ideas, looking for feedback on them and also others. My aim was to provide food for thought really, the 240 is quite an adaptable body shell so will take a wide variety of engines relatively easily. It was engineered to accept the PRV V6 which is a 90 degree Vee so will easily accept V8 engines but that said, it will also take the B230FT is he wants an all-out screamer-turbo jobby.

The worrying thing here is nobody (including me although i deliberately omitted it earlier) has mentioned brakes! Add extra grunt and extra brakes will be needed.

The other thing i didn't mention is fitting stiffer springs isn't all it's cracked up to be especially on a limited budget. Usually if you have to wait a long time to do something like that, by the time you can afford to do it, your body no longer appreciates the gesture!

Also coil-overs, unless the car was orignally designed and fitted with them only really serve a useful purpose for track days to alter the ride height, rates and damping. I know someone who fitted a set of Koni front dampers and coil-overs on a Rover 800 which in fairness isn't that far removed from the original Chapman Strut, even on the softest setting (softer than the OE springs) the ride was crashy and harsh - in his words he "ruined it".
Fairly sure he said they were Koni, might have been Gaz thinking about it.

Also Tom down in the west country with his 740 hearse project has removed the coil-overs and found the ride is vastly improved.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

That was the impression i got Alan, floating ideas, looking for feedback on them and also others. My aim was to provide food for thought really, the 240 is quite an adaptable body shell so will take a wide variety of engines relatively easily. It was engineered to accept the PRV V6 which is a 90 degree Vee so will easily accept V8 engines but that said, it will also take the B230FT is he wants an all-out screamer-turbo jobby.

The worrying thing here is nobody (including me although i deliberately omitted it earlier) has mentioned brakes! Add extra grunt and extra brakes will be needed.

The other thing i didn't mention is fitting stiffer springs isn't all it's cracked up to be especially on a limited budget. Usually if you have to wait a long time to do something like that, by the time you can afford to do it, your body no longer appreciates the gesture!

Also coil-overs, unless the car was orignally designed and fitted with them only really serve a useful purpose for track days to alter the ride height, rates and damping. I know someone who fitted a set of Koni front dampers and coil-overs on a Rover 800 which in fairness isn't that far removed from the original Chapman Strut, even on the softest setting (softer than the OE springs) the ride was crashy and harsh - in his words he "ruined it".
Fairly sure he said they were Koni, might have been Gaz thinking about it.

Also Tom down in the west country with his 740 hearse project has removed the coil-overs and found the ride is vastly improved.

I'm sure Olly appreciates all the advice, but unless he has a big win on the lotto this eve his university student loan isn't going to pay for FI, 2.3 litre engines, turbocharging, V8 engines, lowering springs, adjustable shock absorbers, bigger brakes or coil-over shock absorbers. He has probably realised by now that none of those things is going to happen soon, but he was excited about his new motor car (as I would be).

The consensus is that Olly should check the car over and make sure what he has is as good as it can be - once he finishes his degree, qualifies as a banker and is earning £250,000/year he can get the McLaren F1 engine, ceramic brakes and Ohlins suspension fitted (or just buy a better car).

It is good that we have Olly on board with the forum, and I look forward to hearing more about his 244DL.

:-)

[Ollly244dl]

Originally Posted by Othen

I'm sure Olly appreciates all the advice, but unless he has a big win on the lotto this eve his university student loan isn't going to pay for FI, 2.3 litre engines, turbocharging, V8 engines, lowering springs, adjustable shock absorbers, bigger brakes or coil-over shock absorbers. He has probably realised by now that none of those things is going to happen soon, but he was excited about his new motor car (as I would be).

The consensus is that Olly should check the car over and make sure what he has is as good as it can be - once he finishes his degree, qualifies as a banker and is earning £250,000/year he can get the McLaren F1 engine, ceramic brakes and Ohlins suspension fitted (or just buy a better car).

It is good that we have Olly on board with the forum, and I look forward to hearing more about his 244DL.

:-)

Thanks everyone for the links and advice.

I am 20 studying mechanical engineering in Nottingham. As I mentioned I intend for this car to be a long term project.

Although it may not be the most cost effective route I imagine the direction of the car will change as I get older and my taste/ access to money changes.

Until insurance goes down the Volvo will be parked in the countryside with me going to work on it when possible and insuring a week or so at a time for some little UK trips.

Cut springs/lowering springs would not be for performance but instead to cheaply give the car a bit of stance and familiar myself with the Volvos suspension before moving to coil-overs. As the car wont be doing loads of miles in the meantime.

I have access to Uni workshops and a free basement which ideally over the next couple years as I get some money in can build an engine.

This thread is to get an idea of my options both short and long term.
As its my first project of this nature I would ideally like to go down the built turbo redblock route, sticking with Volvo parts.

Any advice appreciated even if a bit ambitious for the time being.

Cheers
Olly

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Ollly244dl

Thanks everyone for the links and advice.

I am 20 studying mechanical engineering in Nottingham. As I mentioned I intend for this car to be a long term project.

Although it may not be the most cost effective route I imagine the direction of the car will change as I get older and my taste/ access to money changes.

Until insurance goes down the Volvo will be parked in the countryside with me going to work on it when possible and insuring a week or so at a time for some little UK trips.

Cut springs/lowering springs would not be for performance but instead to cheaply give the car a bit of stance and familiar myself with the Volvos suspension before moving to coil-overs. As the car wont be doing loads of miles in the meantime.

I have access to Uni workshops and a free basement which ideally over the next couple years as I get some money in can build an engine.

This thread is to get an idea of my options both short and long term.
As its my first project of this nature I would ideally like to go down the built turbo redblock route, sticking with Volvo parts.

Any advice appreciated even if a bit ambitious for the time being.

Cheers
Olly

Excellent Olly,

We are all fascinated by your project - post some words and pictures from time to time.

Alan

[Ollly244dl]

Originally Posted by Othen

Excellent Olly,

We are all fascinated by your project - post some words and pictures from time to time.

Alan

Went down to see the Volvo for first time.

Engine and gearbox all seem smooth and starts first time. Pulls nicely through all the gears and still stops 10x better than my 03 KA lol.

Couple things need looking at like heating and radio. But think heating just a fuse. With the radio if I wanted to put a modern DAB din one in I have what changes would be needed for the radio loom. Are there adapter kits or is an older radio easier.

Shocks are a little shot but still drives nicely and doesn't need to pass an MOT again .

Found all the history car only did 30k miles between 1980 and 2001 and other than some rust on the rear bumper and a little on the roof doesn't seem to be any major spots.

[Laird Scooby]

There are radio/head unit converter kits on ebay for the 7/940 models, the same seller may be able to supply for the 240 as well. They don't have anything listed for the 240 but could be worth an email to the sell :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182619474818

With the rust on the bumpers, get some kitchen foil, roll it into a ball with the shiny side out, dip it into some water (or spray water onto the rusty bumper) and rub the foil over the rust.

Looks like your rear springs and dampers are shot, probably best to change both for new, standard (not self-leveling) items.

When you say the heating needs a fuse, it doesn't, there are no fuses in the heating! Do you mean the fan isn't working?

If the temperature gauge is barely moving, chances are it needs a new 'stat. Fairly simple job to do but make sure the new one comes with the correct seal and invest in a tube of silicone grease to put in the groove of the seal and also round the edges of the seal. If the temp gauge is getting to the halfway point and there is little or no warmth being blown out of the heater, some chimp may have swapped the heater matrix hoses and got them round the wrong way.

[Ollly244dl]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

There are radio/head unit converter kits on ebay for the 7/940 models, the same seller may be able to supply for the 240 as well. They don't have anything listed for the 240 but could be worth an email to the sell :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182619474818

With the rust on the bumpers, get some kitchen foil, roll it into a ball with the shiny side out, dip it into some water (or spray water onto the rusty bumper) and rub the foil over the rust.

Looks like your rear springs and dampers are shot, probably best to change both for new, standard (not self-leveling) items.

When you say the heating needs a fuse, it doesn't, there are no fuses in the heating! Do you mean the fan isn't working?

If the temperature gauge is barely moving, chances are it needs a new 'stat. Fairly simple job to do but make sure the new one comes with the correct seal and invest in a tube of silicone grease to put in the groove of the seal and also round the edges of the seal. If the temp gauge is getting to the halfway point and there is little or no warmth being blown out of the heater, some chimp may have swapped the heater matrix hoses and got them round the wrong way.

Cheers for this.

Ill have a look at what I can find.
Temp gauge seems to be working but will check out next time Im down.
And yes the fan isn't blowing rather than just cool air.
Not sure entirely then just assumed would be a fuse as was working when it was last parked.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ollly244dl

Cheers for this.

Ill have a look at what I can find.
Temp gauge seems to be working but will check out next time Im down.
And yes the fan isn't blowing rather than just cool air.
Not sure entirely then just assumed would be a fuse as was working when it was last parked.

For the fan, invest in a 6mm or 1/4" drill bit, find the fuse in the fusebox for the fan, turn it in the springs so the main fusible link is facing you, push down or up on the "springy" contact and lift out the other end of the fuse and then remove the fuse.

Now use the drill bit between your fingers to rotate it against where the fuse sits in the contacts. Use some emery cloth/tape gently on the fuse ends caps to clean those as well, refit and test. The switch may also need some exercise to get some life out of the fan if it's been sat.

Try all positions of the fan switch as it could still be working on the fastest speed, indicating another potential fault.

As you may have guessed with Volvos, assuming can be a fruitless exercise!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Ollly244dl

Went down to see the Volvo for first time.

Engine and gearbox all seem smooth and starts first time. Pulls nicely through all the gears and still stops 10x better than my 03 KA lol.

Couple things need looking at like heating and radio. But think heating just a fuse. With the radio if I wanted to put a modern DAB din one in I have what changes would be needed for the radio loom. Are there adapter kits or is an older radio easier.

Shocks are a little shot but still drives nicely and doesn't need to pass an MOT again .

Found all the history car only did 30k miles between 1980 and 2001 and other than some rust on the rear bumper and a little on the roof doesn't seem to be any major spots.

That sounds very good. Have a look underneath for rust though (rear wheel arches, boot floor and sills).

Your motor car almost certainly will not have a DIN socket and loom for the radio. It is trivially simple to run a permanent live plus a switched live (I took them direct from the fuse board) and find a good -ve return to install one yourself. That way you could easily fit a modern radio (only those 3 of the DIN pins are used by the radio itself). If you wanted a powered antenna then you would need 2 more (but that seems a bit pointless with a DAB radio). The speaker connections depend on what you want to fit (you probably won’t be happy with the mono one Volvo intended as standard). Again it is best to wire them through DIN socket, the wiring is self explanatory. The radio aperture itself is single DIN size, so most generic type ones will fit, but you may need some trim to finish it nicely.

I didn’t quite understand what was not working about the heater. Is it just the fan not working, or is it not getting hot? Like Dave says, the fan may just be the fuse - if it isn’t it is a tricky replacement of the fan itself. If it isn’t getting hot then it may need flushing out - it would be a good idea to flush the engine coolant anyway (same stuff), use the LS method - Dave can advise.

If the shock absorbers aren’t any good then change them. They aren’t expensive (pattern parts work just fine) and it is an afternoon’s work. I know your motor car no longer needs a MoT test, but the legislation isn’t there to excuse you from making your car safe for the road. While you have each wheel up in the air changing the shock absorbers have a good look around for rust, also shake the wheel bearings, and inspect the suspension bushes and track rod ends with a pry bar. I’d be surprised if at least a few were not worn out on a 41 year old motor car.

It looks like a very nice motor car. Well done.

Alan

[360beast]

My 940 is polybushed with GAZ GT adjustable dampers and the handling is miles better than a land yacht has any right to be and it hasn't been lowered at all.

A sensible 40mm drop would be good for aesthetics and handling otherwise you run in to bump steer issues from the angle of the steering rack arms (atleast you do on 7/900 series so I imagine the same applies to 200 series). You could get classicswede lowering springs with GAZ GT dampers, polybushes and a thicker set of ARB's and it will handle brilliantly and look good, the best bit being you can buy those parts bit by bit when funds allow (I'd recommend starting with the dampers). These 200 series definitely need bigger wheels to help with the style as well.

If you want a turbo project I know someone selling a 240 turbo project if you're interested, I haven't got any details on it yet but I imagine you could sell your 244 and it would cover the cost of it.