Engine 850: B5204S/2.0/20v: PCV 5/8 Heater host Kinks

[CNGBiFuel]

Note that the OP has used heater hose. This is quite rigid so no surprise about the kink. That is for water and not oily fumes. Get the proper Volvo one with the end pre moulded to fit properly.

Dagga, dagga, dagga.... Control Tower to CNGBifuel… Control Tower to CNGBifuel…
You're coming in WAAAAAYYY toooo high. Descend to "I will type slowly for you...". Five hundred feet and make your approach. Over.


We could, but few these days would say that's wise. 'The proper Volvo one' is a proper piece of junk, and a good part of why the PCV on these cars requires doing in the first place. Let be as often. Throw it.

Right enough, use oil-grade hose, not heater, yet this subject has been done-to-death, and the reasons for ditching the Volvo item are no longer in dispute.

For the second time in this thread, the de-facto proven thread, with a mod which since introduction must have millions of miles behind it. Whys and wherefores too.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=53448

We know it's hard, but this time, for all our sakes, before misleading others with pat-claptrap, read it. There's a lamb...

[Derry]

Question is if a 5/8 hose mod will make any improvements or benefit my N/A engine: 2.0 10V B5202S, Thanks

[Cookeh]

If your piston rings are shagged and you have increased blow-by then it will help reduce crankcase pressure, and increase the duration between pcv servicing. It won't give any oversee in performance or mileage.

[CNGBiFuel]

Agreed, nothing will save you from worn rings. All it'll do is. 'as described' in the thread.

Question is if a 5/8 hose mod will make any improvements or benefit my N/A engine: 2.0 10V B5202S, Thanks

Your questions would lead us to believe you've not read the thread or you're not able to understand it. This leaves you two options:

1) Quote and use Volvo parts - this is not wrong - it suits those sorts that insist on Volvo brand oil very well. Replace PCV ad infinitum.

2) Read and understand the thread. Understand the operation of the PCV. Understand the implications, and how they might apply to you.

Here's my install, first piccy shows how using 8mm stainless tube on drivers LHS, and rubber hose on driver's RHS in combinatipon - here on a 1999 NA car. Thus the smaller tube fed round the front.

[CNGBiFuel]

Second piccy shows how I got tighter turns than most of you would require - using standard plumbing fittings/ hose-tails...

[CNGBiFuel]

Third pic shows both sides of intake tube

1) with large 5/8" hose goes to plumbing-fitting hose-tail
2) 8mm hose-take-off on the other.

Don't have it precisely as shown. Do something like it. This interpretation works for me - and for less than the factory hose - because fittings are brass or cast-iron, these won't clog or go brittle. Do it your way.

[Derry]

When I was doing this job last time (with heater hose) I was actually following https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=53448 and he does say he used heater hose and mentions later down the thread (end of page) he’s been using them for past 25 years. CNGBiFuel, I got the idea now and thanks for the pictures, I’ll have another go at it and use a 5/8 fuel hose SAE J30 instead of the heater hose with some pluming fittings.

[CNGBiFuel]

With two posts as evidence you've either not truly read, or if you have, understood the thread, what is there to say?

You'll live. Carry on.

For the rest:
Brass/steel/copper is best at the box-end, 5/8" 16mm hose-tall barb would be good. However if you've LPG/CNG gas injectors under there, you've no space. Source a NBR Nitrile (NOT silicone) 16mm 5/8" elbow. It'll take no more space than the factory 10mm 'factory' offering. Yet, keeps the pipe low and out of the way.

Top grade HH used to be made from hi-grade NBR, but there's no guarantee even today's top-branded 'Gates' HH will be.
Why NBR? NBR will take all the oil you can throw at it, silicone less so. NBR is what your oil-grade hose will be made from. Whereas 'heater-hose' might be or might not. Thus HH may cope, but like silcone goes to blancmange if it's not oil-grade NBR.

[acshortt5]

Just to add to the good sense written above there are several reasons to use fuel hose for the hose sections:
1) Oil & fuel resistant.
2) Withstands high temps - it gets hot under the bonnet and the vapour inside the hose isn't likely to be on the cool side either.
3) Fibre reinforced so won't collapse under vacuum. If you use thin wall non-reinforced hose then that might collapse under the vacuum and you are then kind of defeating the reason for doing the job in the first place.
4) The fibre reinforcement of fuel hose will help to prevent any kinks and bends from stopping air flow.

It's not dear, I've just bought 3m off ebay for £5.66/m

I just wished all this stuff was advised when I replaced mine with the genunie volvo stuff years ago.

[CNGBiFuel]

I just wished all this stuff was advised when I replaced mine with the genunie volvo stuff years ago.

Yup acshortt5, me too. Your words are always on the mark. I suspect, you could never get 'the factory parts PCV' working 'to book' for long, if at all, either.

Rant/ What's frightening is that so much of what we're found reading on here, not just on this subject - so many others - is straight mindless clap-trap. Worse, even after the info is given, many will still push utter tripe. Some of it straight dangerous. Then... get this, others thank them and further perpetuate the misinformation. They'll never need to ration stupidity.\rant.

Jeez. Best shut-up now, else they get upset.