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240 GLT saloon restoration project

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Old Oct 13th, 2021, 10:37   #121
Othen
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This is exactly the first method I tried. I used some good quality M12 bar and fabricated my own bits and pieces from 2mm steel and 40x3mm angle. With a lot of swearing they only got about half way and wouldn't go any further. I ended up stripping the threads off the bar. On my second attempt my breaker bar started to creak like it was going to shear!

I actually went one step further - I don't like to give up. I made my own hydraulic press of sorts by creating a frame for my trolley jack.



This achieved nothing. I actually managed to bend the metal of the frame and my jack was creaking long before any movement happened on the bushes.

I think they're going to need at least a 4 ton press.
I suppose this comes down to pretty fine tolerances. Once I got the bush seated properly with the home made tool it went in quite easily - I think the important thing is to keep everything absolutely straight.

That was quite an ingenious jig you made for your trolley jack - I think again the problem will be keeping everything absolutely straight - whereas a trolley jack necessarily follows an arc. I'm wondering whether that jig would work with a bottle jack instead of a trolley?

A proper press (like the one Luke has) made the whole job very easy indeed. Because it always pushes in a straight line it is quite easy to ensure everything stays well aligned. I was even thinking of buying a press (they start at under £100) - but then I would probably only use it once every couple of years. If I was replacing all the bushes both ends it might well justify a purchase?

Alan
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Last edited by Othen; Oct 13th, 2021 at 10:52. Reason: Addition.
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Old Oct 13th, 2021, 10:53   #122
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I suppose this comes down to pretty fine tolerances. Once I got the bush seated properly with the home made tool it went in quite easily - I think the important thing is to keep everything absolutely straight.

That was quite an ingenious jig you made for your trolley jack - I think again the problem will be keeping everything absolutely straight - whereas a trolley jack necessarily follows an arc.

A proper press (like the one Luke has) made the whole job very easy indeed. Because it always pushes in a straight line it is quite easy to ensure everything stays well aligned. I was even thinking of buying a press (they start at under £100) - but then I would probably only use it once every couple of years. If I was replacing all the bushes both ends it might well justify a purchase?

Alan
It's a bit like having a van or a set of ramps. I think you'd suddenly become everyone's "best friend"!
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Old Oct 13th, 2021, 11:15   #123
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I suppose this comes down to pretty fine tolerances. Once I got the bush seated properly with the home made tool it went in quite easily - I think the important thing is to keep everything absolutely straight.

That was quite an ingenious jig you made for your trolley jack - I think again the problem will be keeping everything absolutely straight - whereas a trolley jack necessarily follows an arc. I'm wondering whether that jig would work with a bottle jack instead of a trolley?


Alan
The trolley jack idea doesn't work for exactly the reason you describe Alan, the fact the trolley jack follows an arc. Also there tends to be a lot od "slop" in the various linkages of a trolley jack, not usually a problem when lifting a car as a little flexibility is actually helpful but for using the jack as the power part of a press that slop makes it a no-go.

I also have 2 smaller similar frames made from box section and have successfully used a bottle jack to press out a wheel bearing, my "winter project" for this year is to beef it up and fit exact landing position plates (so i can remove and use the bottle jack for other things too) for the bottle jack and also on the back of it, fit a couple of lengths of angle iron, one with two sets of bearings (covered in a length of tube each), the other with a central set of bearings covered in a longer tube with a handle attached to the tube to create a ring-roller - the jack would apply the pressure to enable the curves to be rolled.

It's certainly the basis of a useful tool, maybe my ideas will give Juular an idea how to repurpose/reinvent his frame to make himself a useful tool.
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Old Oct 13th, 2021, 11:17   #124
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It's a bit like having a van or a set of ramps. I think you'd suddenly become everyone's "best friend"!
Absolutely! I find that having a 3/4t trailer makes me popular in the same way!

Sometimes it is worth investing in a fairly specialised tool just for a few uses though - I've done that quite a few times (things like coil spring compressors and motorcycle chain riveters come to mind). I've found that if I buy the cheaper (normally either Chinese or Indian manufactured) items they are made well enough to last a lot of occasional use and cheaper than paying a garage for even just 2 or 3 jobs. I'm thinking that if I ever changed all the bushes front and back on the RB it would be worth paying £90 for a press.

Alan

PS. One like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283628996...4AAOSw3LphVsqr
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Old Oct 13th, 2021, 11:34   #125
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Absolutely! I find that having a 3/4t trailer makes me popular in the same way!

Sometimes it is worth investing in a fairly specialised tool just for a few uses though - I've done that quite a few times (things like coil spring compressors and motorcycle chain riveters come to mind). I've found that if I buy the cheaper (normally either Chinese or Indian manufactured) items they are made well enough to last a lot of occasional use and cheaper than paying a garage for even just 2 or 3 jobs. I'm thinking that if I ever changed all the bushes front and back on the RB it would be worth paying £90 for a press.

Alan

PS. One like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283628996...4AAOSw3LphVsqr
Or fire up your welder and make one from a 5T bottle jack! I'd suggest mounting the bottle jack at the bottom so it presses upwards, not conventional i know but there are obvious advantages.
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Old Oct 13th, 2021, 11:42   #126
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Or fire up your welder and make one from a 5T bottle jack! I'd suggest mounting the bottle jack at the bottom so it presses upwards, not conventional i know but there are obvious advantages.
I think this is what I'll be doing in the future, although the price of steel box section has become quite steep recently. It might actually be more economical to buy one.
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Old Oct 13th, 2021, 12:31   #127
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I think this is what I'll be doing in the future, although the price of steel box section has become quite steep recently. It might actually be more economical to buy one.
There's a reason why the ready-made ones are still cheap! Probably made from cheaper Chinese steel.

I used box because it was what i had lying around, similar i suspect to why you used angle for your frame. As for the kink in one side, you bent it with a jack, you can straighten it with a jack! Alternatively, get two small blocks of wood and a longer length, make a bridge from them then use a G-Clamp or similar to pull the bent bit straight then weld some reinforcement onto it. Alternatively use some washers each end as shims, use a second piece of angle as the bridge part of the reinforcement, clamp in the middle to pull the bent part "past straight" then weld in the middle. Once cool, knock the shims out and weld all the way along to gain a double reinforced section that should now be straight.

I also need to straighten one side of one of the frames i made from box, my trolley jack bent that too. The bottle jack didn't bend the second frame i made to get that wheel bearing out. I'll use a similar method to what i've described to straighten my "banana box" section.
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Old Oct 13th, 2021, 12:51   #128
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There's a reason why the ready-made ones are still cheap! Probably made from cheaper Chinese steel.
... but in my experience (with occasional use specialist tools) that is always perfectly adequate. If I was running a workshop where the press was in use every day it would be sensible to buy a more expensive one. For a tool (such as a spring compressor, chain riveter, press...) that might be used 10-20 times in its whole lifetime Chinese or Indian made items are most adequate.
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Old Oct 14th, 2021, 03:46   #129
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I'm using standard rubber bushings from PFS.

I do think there's a bit of confusion regarding the metal shells. On the axle bushes, definitely leave the metal shell in place as otherwise there's very little support for the bush.

On the other arms I'm not sure how any bush would go in unless you remove the shells. They become very corroded, and normally with poly bushes in solid voids, you just press them in as they are.

I've not heard back from the garage in ages, I wonder if they are struggling with them..
I think Juular has answered most of the bushing removal issues: for the panhard rod and reaction rods (apologies if I've named these incorrectly) the housing is solid metal and the old bushing shells should be removed for new ones to fit. Disregard the new bushing instructions if they tell you to leave the metal shells in. For many of the new ones, particularly poly ones, a press shouldn't be required, just the grease supplied with the new bushing. On the trailing arm the housings are loops rather than solid, and the shell needs to be left in if the new bushings didn't come in a metal shell. The big rear bushing is easy if you have the special tool. I made a simple one, then bought the real thing when one came up on ebay. The front trailing arm bush is where Juular is having problems, and I don't know the solution. It may be possible to build a smaller version of the tool for the rear bushings?
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Old Nov 24th, 2021, 11:00   #130
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Time to update this

Axle painted.



Arms rebushed and painted.



Springs tidied up.



Fuel tank had any major rust chopped off and the remainder treated. It isn't leaking at all which is a major bonus.



And a coat of paint.



Fitted a new lift pump to the sender unit, and cleaned up the wiper tracks for the sender. As you can see it now gives correct readings at min and max.





My rear spring retainer plates were rotten right through so I made up some replacements with integrated threaded bar to make fitting easier.





Fuel tank bracket was shot, so I made one of these too.



Exhaust refitted



Tank refitted





Brake lines cleaned up and fuel lines and main pump refitted.





Axle in place.



Axle brake hardlines made up with new fittings and flexis.





Springs shocks, brake discs.





The calipers will have to wait because AutoDoc send me the wrong pad fitting kits.

I had to remake the clevis pins for the handbrake expanders as I managed to lose them. I used some offcuts of bolts with the ends peened over using a hammer.



The next part will be sorting out the electrics and interior.
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