GLE V6 first proper journey in 10 years...

[russwinchester]

So I've been able to put a few miles on the 760 as a bit of shakedown testing prior to MOT booked next week. What a lovely waft-mobile!

Couple of issues, the car runs well when cold, when it is warm we appear to have a strange intermittent problem. It seems to drive really well, then when warmed up it has occasional periods of running really rough i.e. not on all cylinders, hardly any power as a result, then it seems to fix itself. Any pointers? I've made sure the spark plug gaps are 0.7mm, I did replace the dizzy cap but not the rotor arm so that's a possible but I'd be surprised owing to the intermittent nature of the fault. Possible ignition stage amplifier breakdown perhaps? Would be good to hear if anyone has experienced similar.

The charging system is still playing up. So it's measuring 11.5ish volts across the battery when running. I swapped over the battery to a spare I have, not thinking it would do anything, but lo and behold we then had 14.5v across the battery? I assumed it was a battery issue, took it for a drive and came back, and 11.5V again. Still have the row of warning lights at idle when starting from cold and blipping the throttle turns them off so at least the charging circuit is intact I guess.

So I tried to unbolt the alternator but the bolts are seized solid and starting to round off, so unfortunately I think I'm going to have to resort to paying someone else to sort it, which is against all my principles!!!

Getting ready for MOT it looks like I need some drop links so that's the next job. Bolts are soaking in penetrating fluid as we speak so fingers crossed, I've skinned my knuckles more times than I'd like to say whilst undertaking this project...

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by russwinchester

So I've been able to put a few miles on the 760 as a bit of shakedown testing prior to MOT booked next week. What a lovely waft-mobile!

Couple of issues, the car runs well when cold, when it is warm we appear to have a strange intermittent problem. It seems to drive really well, then when warmed up it has occasional periods of running really rough i.e. not on all cylinders, hardly any power as a result, then it seems to fix itself. Any pointers? I've made sure the spark plug gaps are 0.7mm, I did replace the dizzy cap but not the rotor arm so that's a possible but I'd be surprised owing to the intermittent nature of the fault. Possible ignition stage amplifier breakdown perhaps? Would be good to hear if anyone has experienced similar.

The charging system is still playing up. So it's measuring 11.5ish volts across the battery when running. I swapped over the battery to a spare I have, not thinking it would do anything, but lo and behold we then had 14.5v across the battery? I assumed it was a battery issue, took it for a drive and came back, and 11.5V again. Still have the row of warning lights at idle when starting from cold and blipping the throttle turns them off so at least the charging circuit is intact I guess.

So I tried to unbolt the alternator but the bolts are seized solid and starting to round off, so unfortunately I think I'm going to have to resort to paying someone else to sort it, which is against all my principles!!!

Getting ready for MOT it looks like I need some drop links so that's the next job. Bolts are soaking in penetrating fluid as we speak so fingers crossed, I've skinned my knuckles more times than I'd like to say whilst undertaking this project...

The rough running is consistent with the battery not charging properly Russ. Very common in EFi cars. With the spare battery on, did the rough running not happen at the same point? Or to rephrase that, did the row of warning lights come on about the same time?

[russwinchester]

Thanks Dave, the lights don’t actually ever come on apart from at startup. The thought crossed my mind that it could all be related so I’ll focus my efforts on charging and go from there…

[Laird Scooby]

I'm wondering if there's an intermittent connection on either the back of the alternator or in the battery charging lead from the alternator. It seems a bit of a coincidence that when you changed the battery you suddenly got 14.4V when charging but it disappeared later once the cables had relaxed. Might be worth doing the wiggle test on the cables while monitoring the voltage, just in case there's a break in the cable.

My hunch about the field circuit coming back to life with use seems to be right though.

[russwinchester]

Not to be defeated, after several hours of grinding and bolt cutting, I have the alternator off! Fair point about the battery lead, will try that when we’re all back together. Will get the alternator properly bench tested on Monday so then we’ll know where we are at.

Couple of questions for today though…

Aux belts…any recommendations for sourcing? May as well replace alternator, PAS and a/c while I’m there as they are all a little crusty.

Headlamp wiper stops…I only have 4 out of 8 left. I’ve been looking for something to cover the metal exposed ‘prongs’, any ideas here?

Thanks as ever!

[Ian21401]

I buy my belts from my local main dealer.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by russwinchester

Not to be defeated, after several hours of grinding and bolt cutting, I have the alternator off! Fair point about the battery lead, will try that when we’re all back together. Will get the alternator properly bench tested on Monday so then we’ll know where we are at.

Couple of questions for today though…

Aux belts…any recommendations for sourcing? May as well replace alternator, PAS and a/c while I’m there as they are all a little crusty.

Headlamp wiper stops…I only have 4 out of 8 left. I’ve been looking for something to cover the metal exposed ‘prongs’, any ideas here?

Thanks as ever!

What Ian said on the belts ^^^^^ Volvo use an unusually wide belt that sits "on" rther than "in" the pulleys, you might save a couple of quid going to your local parts factor or whatever but you'll be replacing the belts again 3-6 motnsh down the road as they almost always only have the standard "narrow" belts.

Headlamp wiper stops - i must have been lucky, i think all of mine have been intact or i just didn't notice! If the stops can be easily removed from the headlamp, make a mould from a good one then fit the metal into the mould and pour some of this in :

https://www.mbfg.co.uk/pt-flex-60-rubber.html

Can also be used for bushes, they do harder versions and also softer of the same stuff. For reference a car tyre and standard bushes are 65-70 hardness and sports/race bushes are 85-90

Demould after the required time and leave 24 hours somewhere warm (airing cupboard) to fully cure.

[Ian21401]

“Volvo headlamp wiper arresters”
Try a search using the above parameters then take your pick.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

“Volvo headlamp wiper arresters”
Try a search using the above parameters then take your pick.

My headlamp wipers are innocent Ian, they don't need arresting!

Joking aside, is that the correct name for them? I'm fairly sure my Volvo handbook refers to them as "stops" (can't lay my paws on it to verify just now) which is what i've always known them as.

Only one listing on fleabay using that search term and that's in Poland :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363536923773

Also that specifies they're for the 960, whether the other models use the same i don't know.

[russwinchester]

A call into my local dealers today and apparently belts are NLA and the main alternator bolt I butchered is only £14 +vat