Rear Jacking point rust repairs

[TonyS9]

So I finally started the repair on the rear jacking point. Unfortunately it was much worse than expected, and rather like my ungalvanised 360 sills. 3 layers need rebuilt. I mainly pulled the jacking point of with a screwdriver and lever.

Just starting welding new material in, but the structure and surface is uber complex. Its really scrap worthy damage, especially when combined with the huge holes around the shock absorber I just found with my screwdriver (heavy 2mm+ material).

The jacking bit is corroded but not holed, although I havn't tried dipping it yet, I have a new one from 360beast. Less fabrication the better. A thinner section the same angle as the jacking point to repair the hole left would have been nice..hint, hint.

Ideally this is an axle+suspension removal exercise which really puts it in the bounds of rear end restoration, and should be done under cover over weeks. Unfortunately my garage is full of 360 and equipment and probably wouldn't fit the 940 anyway. So I am doing it on a slopey driveway, with minimal ground clearance and outdoors

I still fear the axle and fuel tank will have to come out for rust around the shock absorber (which is next to the fuel tank), but I like to use the jack point for that. Many of the nuts and bolts are pretty narly and will not survive dissassembly. I do have a spare axle, trailing arms and tank bracket that could be ready to go in soon, but still need some replacement studs etc.

Interestingly the inside of the jacking point is accessible from inside the car through 2 large 2" holes, and one in the wheel arch which you could use for inspection and/or rust protection. Adding a Neutraliser sprayed in, then a cavity wax should help if it still resists a screw driver. I'll probably coat with Zinga inside through these holes.

[kiloran]

Yikes! that looks really bad.

[ukvolvo]

Hope it gets sorted bud, One of our points was a little creaky but nothing like that old girl

[Laird Scooby]

I don't envy you welding that in Tony!

[TonyS9]

So got in the middle completed yesterday and started on the inner where the jacking point sits. I have to replace the material that was rusted away. I used 1.5mm material which is hard to work with but I formed it off the car to fit the angle on the jacking point and then worked the hole to fit it. The remaining material on the car inner is pretty crusty, especially inside, and I noticed the edge was down to fractions of a mm (maybe 0.3) in places, however it seemed strong enough and it held up nicely to welding without burning through.

The jacking point actually sits on a formed buldge in the inner so you have to work around this. Then there are lots of buldges for drains and whatnot, this will all be converted to flat sections with 1 bend.

Rain stopped play again, but here is the current level of completion. Not a great photo sorry.

[TonyS9]

Inner coat now on.

[360beast]

Wow Tony, now that was rusty!

I don't think any of the 940s I've broke have even been that bad.

[Dirty Rooster]

I'll have to do similar on my 940 this year,
luckily for me shaping thick plate steel is easier than for most folk,
although my welding is atrocious.
I expect to have gained MIG expertise by 2022...

As I don't like the Volvo scissor jacks and their clampyslottypinness
and always jack up with a flat block I'll be devising some chunkier shape for those points.

[TonyS9]

Originally Posted by Dirty Rooster

I'll have to do similar on my 940 this year,
luckily for me shaping thick plate steel is easier than for most folk,
although my welding is atrocious.
I expect to have gained MIG expertise by 2022...

As I don't like the Volvo scissor jacks and their clampyslottypinness
and always jack up with a flat block I'll be devising some chunkier shape for those points.

MIG welding is not too hard but do plenty of practice first. A key tip is for upside down work CO2 is best. The inner parts are failry thick, so provided its not too rusty it doesn't blow out too easily.

I'd love to have some metal folding, mostly been using a chisel and some standard sections. Just received a 1.1M folded section for the sill outer today (eveything so slow delivery these days, thanks to Brexit). I think the same company does a staggered 90 degree step piece which would be good for the middle.

That said I'm having real trouble getting a solid weld on my new inverter welder, it keeps expanding and blowing out (into a little hollow mountain) after each pulse. I've read this is due to too much gas, too little gas or windy conditions. I am working outside.

[TonyS9]

Final installation of the preformed standard angle section, and closing up, but still other patches to do.

Standard section was an unequal L shape 40x25mm, could have used 50x25. 1.1M of if was £12.50