Engine mount replacement

[volvo again]

About to change the engine mounts on my '99 V70, any tips or ideas welcomed...

Seems an easy job, remove bolts, lift engine, remove mounts and replace in reverse order, so the book of Haynes says...but I'm convinced the people at Haynes have never worked on a 23 yr old car....

[richmac]

Hi,

If you mean the front right mount, it's really straight forward. The following FCP video shows it nicely even though it's on an 850. Have a look at Robert DIY's as well.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...6FORM%3DHDRSC3

Tips:

1 Spray the bolts the day before.
2 Spread the load on the sump as much as possible with a wooden plank/block.
3. The old mount will come out really easily. Getting the new one in takes a bit of jiggling just to line up the lugs. Front lug first works well. The replacement mount might look subtly different but will fit as long as the part number matches.
4. Use a Volvo mount or you'll be doing it again soon.
5. Think about doing the torque rod at the same time and look at your upper mount as well as the 3 of them work together.

Best of luck,

Rich.

[JohnM 855 T5R]

Changing all the mounts is very simple - just takes time and the bolts on the rear mount are a little fiddly to get to - 1 flat at a time with the spanners. As above, soak well in penetrating oil for a couple of days beforehand - do it a few times. Use top quality spanners / sockets as even with soaking in penetrating oil, they will be very tight to shift and the last thing you'll want is rounding the bolts.

Change all the mounts, including the torque rod to the gearbox and the top mounts on the engine and bulkhead. Note that the plate attached to the engine containing the top mount can become stretched causing the new mount to be a loose fit. If this is the case, you'll need a replacement plate - easy enough to change it - I did mine in 20 mins.

The main mounts at the bottom front and rear of the engine look similar but aren't - they are subtly different. Make sure you install them correctly otherwise the engine will sit at the wrong angle.
Genuine Volvo mounts are good but the ones obtainable from PFV are very good quality. I've used them and they last well.

Regards
John

[volvo again]

Thanks for the tips guys.

Have ordered all the bottom mounts, including the torque rod/gearbox mount, from PFS, the top one looks ok, doesn't seem to be any movement but will do it at the same time.

PFS quite reasonable on price too, and cheaper if you use their ebay shop

[volvo again]

Rear one is a pita ain't it? Who put the anti roll bar in the way... lol

[JohnM 855 T5R]

Originally Posted by volvo again

More help please...
Front mount changed fairly easy but rear is fighting back, is it necessary to remove the anti roll bar? Can get to bolt but at an angle & don't want to risk rounding it off.
Universal joint on socket helps but still not enough purchase to remove...
Removing roll bar seems quite involved.
Thanks

No, you don't need to remove the anti roll bar. Keep on spraying over and over with penetrating oil (not regular WD40). I use WD40 penetrant oil.

If you can, apply a little heat with a butane torch. That helps a great deal

If my memory serves me well, its a 19mm (or was it 17mm). Mine came off using a socket and ring spanner with much fiddling and cursing and perseverance along with 3 days of soaking, heat. To prevent rounding, I purchased a six point spanner and socket (as opposed to the usual 12 point). These will not slip or round off the bolt and give a very positive grip.

Regards
John

[Willow place]

Well it is PITA !! I have a pit , and the socket (3/8 drive) would not fit in between the roll bar and I also had to take a small cross strut off and used a wooden wedge to open up enough space to actually get access .

[JohnM 855 T5R]

Originally Posted by Willow place

Well it is PITA !! I have a pit , and the socket (3/8 drive) would not fit in between the roll bar and I also had to take a small cross strut off and used a wooden wedge to open up enough space to actually get access .

It sure is a PITA but I didn't have any of that faff. Is there a subtle difference between the 850 and V70 I wonder?.

Also, for that tricky bolt, used a 6 point ring spanner, not a socket (couldn't get a socket on there).

John

[volvo again]

So the saga continues...
2nd attempt at replacing the rear mount failed, no way is that lower bolt on the steering rack goint to shift, had loads of Plusgas, don't know it it's actually getting onto the bolt threads, using 3/8 drive socket, u/j & extension, battery impact wrench, tried air impact all that did was break the extension bar...
Going to invest in 1/2 drive swivel socket & blow torch to get some heat on it, if that fails might have to cut bolt head off with dremel if it will fit in there, or move the anti roll bar so I can get straight onto the bolt, have thought of undoing the steering rack bolts & lifting it a bit to clear the sway bar...
Thoughts please.....

[SteveSarre]

Hi Volvo_again

I did front and rear lower mounts (not torque mount or RH mount under the crankshaft pulley) on my 1998 T5 Auto. It was difficult. I think it may be much easier on non turbos.

It was a while ago so I don't remember clearly.
I think I had to loosen the subframe front bolts and then slightly lower the rear of the subframe.
I am pretty sure I didn't touch anything to do with the power steering or the antiroll bar.
Is there a bracket in the way that had to be removed?
Is the problem undoing the lower or upper nut (or bolt) on the rear mount?
I think I ended up using a low profile socket (possibly 3/8 drive) to undo something - approaching from the top using a long extension.

Do you have the part numbers of the mounts that you are working with, then I can look up a diagram and I might remember more?

HTH
Steve




HTH
Steve