1990 2.0 not starting

[jasons]

Before I get to the point of chopping the cat off and weighing this old thing in I'd like to see it run first.

I bought it knowing the fuel pump didn't work.

1990, 2.0, injection cat, dizzy cap model, bosch seems to be the name in the engine bay

Todays investigation found that the fuel pump does work but the relay does not, now it may be that the relay is OK and something further up the line is not activating the fp relay?

With that sorted I then found there is no spark, not even a faint attempt of a spark.
Ignition coil tested both sides with a few ohms primary and about 7kohms from my vague memory the other side, but swapped it for the one on the 480 just to be sure and still no spark.

rotor turns, contacts cleaned.

Is there a cps on these?
is the bosch black thing behind nsr an amplifier?

Any ideas?

right now I don't want to throw a whole load of parts at it, the idea is to see if it runs ok first before making an assesment on what to do with the car next.

25a fuse in engine bay looks ok, all the fuses in pass footwell look ok also.

there is a relay behind centre console that clicks away like a good'un, and some strange noises from behind dash which may or may not be linked at all.

help please

[DW42]

It's likely that a 1990 will have Bosch LH2.4 injection, in which case there is an ignition amplifier and a CPS. The CPS is hard to reach down between the back of the engine and the firewall. Both could cause a no-spark situation, but it can be hard to diagnose a car that hasn't been running without throwing parts at it. It will have a diagnostic box that could if you're very lucky give you some clues. Code reading instructions can be found here: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html

[jasons]

Originally Posted by DW42

It's likely that a 1990 will have Bosch LH2.4 injection, in which case there is an ignition amplifier and a CPS. The CPS is hard to reach down between the back of the engine and the firewall. Both could cause a no-spark situation, but it can be hard to diagnose a car that hasn't been running without throwing parts at it. It will have a diagnostic box that could if you're very lucky give you some clues. Code reading instructions can be found here: https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html

brilliant, thanks, I may pull the cps off the 940 just to prove, I'll dig out my diags and see if I have a lead but unlikely lol

[Clifford Pope]

The usual suspects are CPS, fuel pump relay and the Ignition Amplifier Module.

You've fixed the fuel pump relay? If you join a wire between fues 4 and 6 it bypasses the relay and the pumps then run continuously. If that works you can run the engine or drive the car - just remember to remove the wire.

IAM is easy to test - just unplug and try a spare. It's on the LH inner wing near the battery.

CPS is quite likely, but hard to get at. You need a small 10mm socket and very small nimble fingers. It is usually easy to pull out once released, but can be rusted into the bell housing.

All these items are cheap and worth carrying as spares.

[jasons]

with a crank sensor borrowed off the 940, a wire soldered over the rotor which had also failed, mismatched spark plugs because one fell and I couldn't find it, and a rizzlar wedged in the fp relay to make the fp work...and it fired up today.

The cps tested hs on the multimeter, so I was hopeful I was going to get it running today.

the cps was stuck in, so dipstick removed and lots of wiggling and it came free in one piece.

Drove it up and down the private road a few times to clean up the brakes and make sure it drove OK.

A few things I noticed:

The 4sp auto has long gearing, so it wafts along at low revs making steady progress.

You realise just how old tech, or lack of these things are and have, no abs, skinny by modern tyres with not a lot of grip, not helped by the tyres being old hard and probably not that great a make.

Need to check when cold the waterpump, I think its leaking when cold but wasn't when hot, either that or when we flushed the coolant we got it everywhere and it just needed blowing off, tomorrow when cold will prove.

It had a brand new rad in late 2017, so I know it was in use until this point, maybe a little later.

The fan is spinning when cold, so likely a new viscous coupling needed.

New rotor, dizzy, leads, plugs and fp relay will see the ignition side good.

belts, maybe a waterpump or seals, brakes overhaul.

[DW42]

Glad you got it going. Seems as if there may not be too much that needs fixing. Even with electronic FI the 240 is not a very complex beast.

[Moomoo]

Very good news.

[Othen]

Well done.

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by jasons

w

The fan is spinning when cold, so likely a new viscous coupling needed.

Don't be misled - it always spins. It would be nice to think that it was stationary until the engine warmed up, and then cut in, but it's not like that. I think the point is that it's only spinning in a powerless kind of way, not really moving much air. It only gets into its stride when hot.
In theory you could grasp the blades and stop it, if you felt brave!