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Replacing Fuel filter

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Old Apr 17th, 2011, 22:01   #11
BrianH
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Paul,

Did you prefil the filter with petrol before fitting as there is a risk of damage with the petrol pressure on start up.

I haven't done this change for a long time as I run on LPG.

Oil filters are prefilled with oil before fitting but I do use by-pass filtration and they take 1 ltr. The oil light goes out on start up as in usual on start up.

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Old Apr 17th, 2011, 22:10   #12
Paul240480
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Gotta cough to not pre-filling the filter, Brian. I did this in Sept 10, so hopefully......... Thanks for the info'
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Old Feb 2nd, 2012, 22:24   #13
T240
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Excellent informative thread.

Unfortunately, due to lack of time, etc, I farmed mine out to a monkey at the local garage, who totally fooked the unions, both ends, and at the nearside end of the green line that traverses the bulkhead too!! (Yep, I know, don't ask me how he did it).

Moral of that is: if in doubt do it yourself - even if it is a pain in the rear for us amateurs!!!

Anyhow, someone asked about getting a fuel tight seal when you run out of muscle power.

A good tip before you start to put in your new fuel filter, to make certain you get a fuel-tight seal, is to wrap the threaded ends in PTFE tape.

A couple of points on using the tape though . . .

1. Make absolutely sure the threads are clean and dry.

2. Wrap the tape carefully across the full width of the thread, going in the opposite direction to which it is screwed in - which is probably obvious. Make sure to get it good and tight, and around 6 revolutions is plenty, half that would be adequate and make it easier to thread.

3. Proceed to thread up.

Another good tip is to get hold of a couple of flared nut spanners 15 and 17mm, a flexi head ratcheting one for the 15mm side is definitely worth investing in.
Or Crow's foot flared heads that slot onto your ratchet drive. I know they definitely come in 3/8 drive, maybe other sizes if that's your poison.

Hope that's all helpful.

Cheers,

T
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Last edited by T240; Feb 2nd, 2012 at 22:47. Reason: addition and typos
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Old Feb 4th, 2012, 19:33   #14
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i would (and did) plump for a genuine filter. also i fitted copper washers on before doing up the unions.

didnt bother with any of the depressurising- a tiny bit of petrol comes out which you can just use to clean any grease behind the old filer!

Not sure if it was just me but the car certainly seemed to run a teeny bit better after

worth doing though and gets missed in normal servicing

Nick
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Old Jun 1st, 2014, 15:26   #15
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Placing the fuel filter on the bulkhead made it a straightforward job to replace it, and easier for the home mechanic [Thanks, Paul, for the excellent guide, but mine's not like that.] Was it on the SE that Volvo decided to hide it away /only accessible when it's up in the air?

I'm not absolutely sure that it needs replacing, but the car is very sluggish (I've done the WD40 test on the injector seating, with no change) - and will start and run fine and usually only give a problem when I come to a traffic light (almost stalls, have to keep the revs up) and pull away (engine starved of fuel, almost dies but enough momentum keeps me moving until the blockage (?) clears and runs OK again - until the next time).

Yesterday around town it hiccuped and died a number of times, so today I need to sort it out. I already have another filter if that is the problem - and could do with any guidance if anyone has done it off the ground (as I don't have a pit or access to a ramp) - [I don't really want grit and petrol in my eye - as chester6].

Thanks - dan C
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Old Jun 1st, 2014, 23:06   #16
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Definitely sounds like a fuel pressure problem. When I first got my SE it would stumble and cough when pulling away, which was immediately resolved by replacing the fuel filter.

Replacing it is reasonably easy - once you have sufficient room to get under the car (even reversing the car onto a few scaffolding planks to get sufficient room to worm under should suffice), the filter is alongside the pump on a cradle held by three (I believe) bolts to the underside of the car. It's located on the passenger side of the car, just forward of the the rear axle. Be gentle with these bolts and use antiseize spray if necessary, they're exposed to all the road gunk under the car and may be rusty. once you'e removed them, the cradle will be free, it's then a matter of loosening the clamp holding the filter and the unions (use caution as there's likely to be petrol spilled here - best to have a bowl under the filter and if possible rags round the unions when they're loosened), marvel at the black petrol that comes out of the old filter and fit a new one in its' place.
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Old Jun 1st, 2014, 23:34   #17
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be gentle ... road gunk ... unions ... black petrol ...

This sounds like a job to pay someone trustworthily competent to do ...

I've owned my SE a few years and I would guess previous services might or might not have included changing the fuel filter. It must be time to change the filter. I suppose I'll have to do my best when I get around to it ....

The bit I don't fancy is the ... unions. Tapered threads? They are a right of passage. Shudder. I suffered bludied knuckles, cold to the bone and severe self doubt under a Morris Minor doing tapered brake hydraulic threads many years ago ...

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Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Jun 1st, 2014 at 23:44. Reason: EFA
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 09:06   #18
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Since doing my 240 'under bonnet' one, I have tackled my 850's. That is under the car, rear end. The unions are 'simple push fit' . Well they were, surprisingly easy to 'undo'. However the cradle that holds the filter in place was 'dust' and literally fell apart as I tackled it! Of course that had to be replaced, prolonging a relatively easy job. But I know which one I'd prefer to do any day
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 20:06   #19
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Thanks wooble, Stephen and Paul - I've got the cradle off (bolts were OK) but when:

"it's then a matter of loosening the clamp holding the filter and the unions (use caution as there's likely to be petrol spilled here - best to have a bowl under the filter and if possible rags round the unions when they're loosened), marvel at the black petrol that comes out of the old filter and fit a new one in its place" [wooble]

how do I hold the filter sufficiently to undo the nuts [as it's not conveniently bolted to the bulkhead] ? I've WD'd the unions to start loosening them up, and will try to get them off (or pay somebody else) tomorrow.

I've also bled a little muck-containing fuel from a valved bleed tap on the injector rail, and - while outside the house - is running a little smoother, but may be stopping once I take it round the corner. At least it's not hunting so much as it was a week ago before I cleaned the plugs and closed up a couple of gaps.

Dan
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Old Jun 2nd, 2014, 21:41   #20
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WD is not really one for the job , it's a Water Disspersant. Get a penetrating oil, Bardahl do one it's a vaseline based one, there are others. I use a mix50:50 acetone and ATF. the yanks call it PB-Blaster. Works well.
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