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Fuses/Fuel Pump Relay

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Old Jul 25th, 2011, 14:41   #21
chesters6
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Originally Posted by BigGreenThing View Post
Thanks loki. That's been a tremendous help. Also saved me huge amount of time looking for something that doesn't exist. It seems the only fuse for the mechanical pump is the ceramic one in front passenger footwell.

Leads will be checked. Along with distributor and motor ARM when I've a chance.

Another question or two: do you know if the mechanical pumps are servicable? And, could retarding the idle contribute to reasonable mph (i did drive like a very old man!) and poor acceleration? I suspect previous owner slowed idle and I DARE NOT mess with the Solex CISAC carb for reasons described on this site and others. This retardation of idle cannot have been done to limit pinking as the engine is set for unleaded.
the mechanical ones tend to work or not ,a replacement is cheap enough but retain the gasket ,strangely my new pump had a thin gasket in the box but the old pump had a very thick gasket fitted which i presume adjusted the pump to the cam that operated it ,i reused the old one with silicone to reseal it just in case ,perhaps there was no need to? ,even if theres nothing wrong with the old pump you could throw it in the floor cubby just incase the new one died in x years time

Last edited by chesters6; Jul 25th, 2011 at 15:40.
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Old Jul 25th, 2011, 17:12   #22
tannachyallen
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I'm guessing that there's no way of making a fuel injected system work from a mechanical pump and avoid the whole intank non runner scenario?

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Old Jul 26th, 2011, 10:58   #23
chesters6
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i think the pressure wouldn't be enough to keep up with the pump that squirts it through the injectors .
the mechanical pumps depend on the petrol stored in the carb to make up the differences in engine speed as they are directly driven by it ,i expect putting your foot down has a lag producing the fuel needed which would not be liked by a injector system as they work on higher pressures.
theoretically you dont need an in tank pump just a powerful outside one to suck the fuel out fast enough.my MK2 espace (horrid car) also G reg never had an in tank pump only an external one ,i presume (will await for more experienced members) a sender from a carb version and an external pump would work ????????????

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Old Jul 28th, 2011, 15:40   #24
S40T3
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i think the pressure wouldn't be enough to keep up with the pump that squirts it through the injectors .
the mechanical pumps depend on the petrol stored in the carb to make up the differences in engine speed as they are directly driven by it ,i expect putting your foot down has a lag producing the fuel needed which would not be liked by a injector system as they work on higher pressures.
theoretically you dont need an in tank pump just a powerful outside one to suck the fuel out fast enough.my MK2 espace (horrid car) also G reg never had an in tank pump only an external one ,i presume (will await for more experienced members) a sender from a carb version and an external pump would work ????????????
Fuel injection systems work without an in-tank pump if the tank connection is at the bottom of the tank. They do still need the high-pressure rotary pump to work the metering unit, but this is outside of the tank. 240s take fuel from the top of the tank, so have an in-tank lift pump to avoid cavitation at the main pump when drawing fuel.
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Old Dec 28th, 2019, 19:18   #25
Yoel Melamed
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Smile Hi All 240 car

I have 240 87' it's not starting . the relay clicing when swich On. after checking the Fuel pump( in line ) has no Electric power. the fuses Ok. any Idea?
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Old Dec 29th, 2019, 10:13   #26
loki_the_glt
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Default First things first

Check the battery connections are tight - slacken off the bolts and re-tighten them and do the same for the other end of the earth(ground) lead; and check the engine earth strap that runs from the cam-cover to the engine compartment bulkhead (firewall) is tight. Then try starting the car again, having first charged the battery if necessary. It might also be worth checking the starter motor connections are tight at the same time.

Further diagnostics are dependent in part on the engine - B200 or B230A or E or F (A models are carburettored, E and F models are fuel-injected) - as there are different causes and cures for the two groups. If it's a A model it won't have an electric fuel pump as standard, but someone has fitted one.
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Old Dec 29th, 2021, 20:52   #27
Danielanthelions
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Smile Fuel pump and fuel relay replacement

Hello,

Just replaced my two fuel pumps and both are quite accessible and trouble free changes. I did lose a few bits into the tank trying to put the thing back in, as a real tight squeeze, but found a fish tank net an excellent retrieval tool (though a child's arm would be even better, but tricky with social services), before trying again and again. Working with the tank open isn't such a risk as you would think, just as long as you have the battery off and don't use any electrical kit near the hole.

The fuel will likely become contaminated if left in open air for long. I left mine open for a week and it didn't smell any more, but it also didn't work as petrol any more too :-( I think the vapour part of the petrol must be pretty important, so have gone and got a couple of cans of new petrol to fill it back up now.

If I remove fuse 4 I get no sound from the tank pump, but if plugged in is does buzz faintly, I would like to put some tubing on the outlet to see if it squirts out petrol, but am pretty sure this little pump is working ok.

Since replacement however, I still have a very warm (hot even) fuel pump relay and fuse 6, not sure if this normal and get the feeling they will melt given time, so still at a loss. So I have ordered a new relay and new fuse assy with modern fuses, plus will check the earths by the fuse box and under the rear seat. A clamp ammeter maybe good for fault finding if I can find one that works with DC?

Any advice if those have similar issues would be helpful.
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