Any tips on adjusting steering box

CLIVERALLY · Aug 10th, 2016, 07:45

Got a P1800. My understanding is that you
1 . Raise car so both wheels are off the deck and steering wheels is dead ahead
2. Loosen aduster lock nut
3. Screw out the adjuster
4. Screw in adjuster until the pitman arm moves slightly when steeringis moved
5. Lock the adjuster

Is this correct?

arcturus · Aug 10th, 2016, 10:06

The question has to be, why do you think that it needs adjusting?

dingov70 · Aug 10th, 2016, 11:42

I have always adjusted steering boxes with weight of vehicle on the front wheels .

Reason ? , because it allows you to judge more accurately any free movement in the box without the wheels actually turning .

Slacken lock nut & turn back slightly adjuster bolt & begin to tighten with a helper ROCKING the steering wheel gently to show how much slack you have as you begin to adjust .

A quick tip wrap single piece of tape around top of wheel to show center line , as you adjust & redcue the amount of free play in the box you are aiming to limit the free play to about 1 inch / 25mm for the catholics either side of the steering wheels centre line . Tighten the locking nut & recheck nothing has loosened or become too tight . Job done , brew on & feet up

Derek UK · Aug 10th, 2016, 11:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by arcturus

The question has to be, why do you think that it needs adjusting?

Yes indeed. Just because you seem to have a lot of play at the steering wheel isn't a reason to adjust. 1" to 1 1/2" either side of centre is normal due to the way the box works. To save writing things out scroll down this pdf and read the instructions there. Make sure the oil is topped up. Replace lower seal if leaking. The adjusting screw has a very coarse thread which means a lot of adjustment for a fraction of a turn. Think of adjusting in increments of an 1/8th of a turn or less. Err on the side of slackness. There are no new worm/gear parts out there to repair these boxes.

http://www.amazoncars.co.uk/pdfs/Suspension.pdf

SwallownAmazon · Aug 10th, 2016, 12:05

I concur with a previous poster - adjustment must be done with the weight of the car on the front wheels; i.e. as in normal use.
You will find that even with no slack at the dead-ahead position, there will be considerable slack on lock. This is quite normal.

Volvorama · Aug 10th, 2016, 14:23

As pointed out above, beware of over-tight adjustment which will wreck the steering box. I've come across several 120s, 140s, 1800s and 164s where someone has attempted to eliminate any play - with dire consequences. These cars will never feel like a rack-and-pinion vehicle but a small amount of slack doesn't affect driving. It's a good idea to make sure that the various ball joints are OK in case these are the cause, as I usually find that the steering boxes should not need frequent adjustment.
If you want to feel better about play in your Volvo's steering, try driving a series Landrover....

dingov70 · Aug 10th, 2016, 16:18

Ah Volvorama , you've taken me back to my Landrover dealer days .

I always ALWAYS had the steering rocked to search out any worn ball joints , loose drop arms on relay & steering box or any play in mounted items ( relay & steering box ) . It was amazing how often the slop could be removed by ensuring nothing was worn or loose .

CLIVERALLY · Aug 10th, 2016, 16:37

OK update...wiggled the shaft and there is a very slight discernable movement on the pitman bit at the wheel about 2"...so have left it alone.
However there is a clunking from the relay(idler) at the other side.I fitted a new bush (from a reputable Volvo supplier) and torqued the nut to 60ftp.
It seems something ain't right and the clunk can be heard in Patagonia!! Wonder if the rubber has waltzed awayWill rag out the bush once car is off the road for the year and sort it then. Abit miffed really ..I have one of the fancy ones with the grease nipple so will fit that.

Volvo_133 · Aug 10th, 2016, 16:47

Hi Clive,
Strip and clean the old 1 with the grease nipple, re pack with grease.
The 3 fixing bolts from your existing idler will just, only just, bottom out on the threads before they are tight. I presume the body on the older type is slightly smaller than the later type. A slightly thicker washer than original sorted mine.
My amazon steering is now more positive, you cant beat the old stuff!!!
Chris.

CLIVERALLY · Aug 10th, 2016, 16:54

Sorry should have been clearer . I have the later type with no nipple which is giving me the bother. I fitted a replacement bush which is where the noise is coming from.. I have a Gucci one i bought a few months ago that has a grease nipple but never fitted it...wish I had

Aug 10th, 2016, 07:45	#1
CLIVERALLY Master Member Last Online: May 11th, 2024 18:34 Join Date: May 2010 Location: wetherby	Any tips on adjusting steering box Got a P1800. My understanding is that you 1 . Raise car so both wheels are off the deck and steering wheels is dead ahead 2. Loosen aduster lock nut 3. Screw out the adjuster 4. Screw in adjuster until the pitman arm moves slightly when steeringis moved 5. Lock the adjuster Is this correct? __________________ Clive "Lets turn up the juice and see what shakes loose"

Aug 10th, 2016, 10:06	#2
arcturus arcturus Last Online: Today 08:22 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Sagres Portugal	The question has to be, why do you think that it needs adjusting? __________________ life's too short to drink bad wine

Aug 10th, 2016, 11:42	#3
dingov70 Master Member Last Online: Yesterday 06:11 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Blackpool	I have always adjusted steering boxes with weight of vehicle on the front wheels . Reason ? , because it allows you to judge more accurately any free movement in the box without the wheels actually turning . Slacken lock nut & turn back slightly adjuster bolt & begin to tighten with a helper ROCKING the steering wheel gently to show how much slack you have as you begin to adjust . A quick tip wrap single piece of tape around top of wheel to show center line , as you adjust & redcue the amount of free play in the box you are aiming to limit the free play to about 1 inch / 25mm for the catholics either side of the steering wheels centre line . Tighten the locking nut & recheck nothing has loosened or become too tight . Job done , brew on & feet up __________________ To stupidity & beyond

Aug 10th, 2016, 14:23	#6
Volvorama Too many cats Last Online: Aug 24th, 2023 09:02 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Birmingham	Careful As pointed out above, beware of over-tight adjustment which will wreck the steering box. I've come across several 120s, 140s, 1800s and 164s where someone has attempted to eliminate any play - with dire consequences. These cars will never feel like a rack-and-pinion vehicle but a small amount of slack doesn't affect driving. It's a good idea to make sure that the various ball joints are OK in case these are the cause, as I usually find that the steering boxes should not need frequent adjustment. If you want to feel better about play in your Volvo's steering, try driving a series Landrover.... __________________ Mark

Aug 10th, 2016, 16:18	#7
dingov70 Master Member Last Online: Yesterday 06:11 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Blackpool	Ah Volvorama , you've taken me back to my Landrover dealer days . I always ALWAYS had the steering rocked to search out any worn ball joints , loose drop arms on relay & steering box or any play in mounted items ( relay & steering box ) . It was amazing how often the slop could be removed by ensuring nothing was worn or loose . __________________ To stupidity & beyond

Aug 10th, 2016, 12:05	#5
SwallownAmazon Member Last Online: Oct 29th, 2019 23:10 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Tonbridge	I concur with a previous poster - adjustment must be done with the weight of the car on the front wheels; i.e. as in normal use. You will find that even with no slack at the dead-ahead position, there will be considerable slack on lock. This is quite normal.

Aug 10th, 2016, 16:37	#8
CLIVERALLY Master Member Last Online: May 11th, 2024 18:34 Join Date: May 2010 Location: wetherby	OK update...wiggled the shaft and there is a very slight discernable movement on the pitman bit at the wheel about 2"...so have left it alone. However there is a clunking from the relay(idler) at the other side.I fitted a new bush (from a reputable Volvo supplier) and torqued the nut to 60ftp. It seems something ain't right and the clunk can be heard in Patagonia!! Wonder if the rubber has waltzed awayWill rag out the bush once car is off the road for the year and sort it then. Abit miffed really ..I have one of the fancy ones with the grease nipple so will fit that. __________________ Clive "Lets turn up the juice and see what shakes loose"

Aug 10th, 2016, 16:47	#9
Volvo_133 VOC member Last Online: May 20th, 2024 16:41 Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Sheffield	Hi Clive, Strip and clean the old 1 with the grease nipple, re pack with grease. The 3 fixing bolts from your existing idler will just, only just, bottom out on the threads before they are tight. I presume the body on the older type is slightly smaller than the later type. A slightly thicker washer than original sorted mine. My amazon steering is now more positive, you cant beat the old stuff!!! Chris.

Aug 10th, 2016, 16:54	#10
CLIVERALLY Master Member Last Online: May 11th, 2024 18:34 Join Date: May 2010 Location: wetherby	Sorry should have been clearer . I have the later type with no nipple which is giving me the bother. I fitted a replacement bush which is where the noise is coming from.. I have a Gucci one i bought a few months ago that has a grease nipple but never fitted it...wish I had __________________ Clive "Lets turn up the juice and see what shakes loose"

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)