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V60 D5 Timing Belt question

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Old Jun 2nd, 2022, 13:04   #1
G15ost
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Default V60 D5 Timing Belt question

Hey. So the time has come to change the timing belt on my 2011 V60 2.4 D5. I’ve found a few threads / vids of them being done and they look a straightforward belt however I noticed none of these were V60’s. They were all 70’s or XC’s.

My question is has anyone on here done a D5 belt on the V60? What’s access like? It looks tight but ok once the upper mount is removed.

The only other question is I’ve read that Volvo dont advise doing the water pump. That’s a foreign concept to me. Any reasons why they don’t change them?

Thanks.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2022, 13:30   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G15ost View Post
The only other question is I’ve read that Volvo dont advise doing the water pump. That’s a foreign concept to me. Any reasons why they don’t change them?
Hotly debated on here... but Volvo make the water pumps so they last the life of the engine, and 9999 times out of 10000 they do...

Have a read of the debates on here and form your own opinion, but, if you do decide to change the pump, fit only a genuine Volvo pump. Most, if not all, of the failures we hear about on here are where people have fitted cheap pattern parts.

Cue the banter :-)
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Old Jun 2nd, 2022, 13:36   #3
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Yeah I figured as much. I’ve never done a belt without a water pump but then I’ve never had a Volvo until now and I like to go off the manufacturers guidance. I’ve ordered auxiliary belts (both) and a tensioner as I’ve read they can be problematic if not replaced.

Any idea, Is access ok on the v60?
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Old Jun 3rd, 2022, 11:52   #4
G15ost
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So, I. Light of lack of replies I thought I’d post a quick update specific to changing the belt on the V60…

I didn’t find any issues with getting access. In fact it’s one of the easier belts I’ve done. The 12mm bolt through the tensioner was a little hindered by AC pipes but nothing that caused a real issue. It was more getting my torque wrench on afterwards that was a tad tricky.

I had a cheap (£13.99 from Amazon) Crank holding tool which worked fine. It did however I found when tightening the centre but back up to 300nm there is nowhere to sit it on the subframe like in the videos online so I had to hold it. I first out a breaker bar onto the 1/2” drive cutout but it started to twist so I placed a length of scaffold pole over the entente handle part and held it with one hand and torqued with the other which worked with no problems…. So if you’re doing this on a V60 the grab a length of scaffold pole too as it’ll make life so much easier when trying to hit that 300nm on the centre nut.

Other than this it was uneventful and took about an hour.
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