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Guide: Replacing the boot wiring harness

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Old Apr 18th, 2016, 18:59   #21
larryb00
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Default Frayed cables

Great Post, had exact same issue with my S40 '08. For me it was displaying error "boot lid open" and when I locked the car the hazard lights did not flash to indicate that it was locked.

I didnt get a new loom, instead I crimped the broken cables and it worked a treat.
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Old Nov 21st, 2016, 12:22   #22
Craig01nire
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Great Guide, Thanks very much. I started getting problems with my boot just yesterday and found this very useful.

My problem seems to a bit different. It started with the 'boot open' error message when the boot was closed. Boot then wouldnt open unless i pressed the open boot button on the key fob. Got the boot open and now it wont close at all, it just bounces open when trying to push it down.

I've ordered a new loom in the hope that will solve it. However, does anyone know if i push the mechanism shut with a screwdriver, should it stay in the 'shut' position? even if it is disconnected from the loom? or does it some how electronically shut when connected to the power? I've disconnect the whole lock mechanism from the boot and I can't figure out if that is where the fault lies - as I say, it wont stay 'shut'.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2016, 16:42   #23
Wiseacre
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just had this myself in the last few days.

opened up the rubber hose to find someone in the past had soldered all 6 wires!

found the one that was down to a wire or two, repaired and got it working. However, without a soldering iron my connections soon came unstuck, so I've ordered a new loom from a dealer for £34 - cheaper than a used off ebay!

think I'm going to sell her after next week's MOT. shame, I love this car and I've learnt to enjoy her foibles, but the mrs isn't keen.
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Old Jan 21st, 2017, 12:22   #24
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Hi, good wrote up, but I just want to replace the connector to the boot release switch, anyone any idea of a part number or where to get one, I don't want to replace the whole loom as I've been quoted £100 for it!
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Old Jan 21st, 2017, 23:50   #25
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Cool solved

Never mind, soldered 3x strips of wire directly into the boot release switch and filled with silicone, a permanent fix, no more rusty connection pins.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2017, 18:14   #26
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After few weeks of the "Boot Lid Open" message and the hazard lights failing to flash upon locking the car, I finally remembered to do some research on what to repair/replace on my S40 to make this go away. Thanks to the original poster of this thread, I found it most useful and it quickly pointed me in the right direction. I Found that the signal cable from the normally open contact on the boot lock mechanism was severed where it entered the rubber duct from the lid. I also noticed that the insulation on a second wire was brittle and damaged in 2 places. I decided to repair the damaged cables instead of replacing the loom, and I am pleased to say that due to this thread I have fixed my car. Well, this fault anyway. Plenty of other quirks to sort out yet but I'm on the way. Cheers G.
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Old Mar 18th, 2017, 16:32   #27
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Brilliant guide. Exactly same issue, ordered the part and your instructions (and Swedish design) made this so easy to complete in under an hour. Thanks
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Old May 4th, 2017, 16:09   #28
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Great "how to", so thank you. Took 30 mins from start to finish. Be careful removing the grab handle as I managed to break one of the tabs, nothing that can't he fixed though.
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Old May 17th, 2017, 12:18   #29
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Have just replaced the harness on my 2004 S40 using this excellent guide. Took me under an hour to complete and cost of the part from UK Volvo dealer was £42 including VAT (2017 prices)
Thank you Snoodini
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Old May 18th, 2017, 10:12   #30
dilbertov
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Great guide - thanks. A few comments from my experience which may be helpful to others:

1. On mine, pressing the boot release (physical and remote) made a short (<1s) buzzing noise. It sounded like the lock was trying to work. Everything else worked (number plate lights, no "Boot Open" warning on dash) so I assumed - incorrectly - that the loom was OK and the lock was faulty.
2. I therefore crawled into the boot, removed the trim panel, the wiring plug from the lock, and the 3 bolts attaching the lock to the boot lid, then opened the boot.
3. Due to the design of the lock, the electrical socket moulding on the lock fouls the retaining bracket when opening the lid. Forcing the lid open cracked the plastic around the socket. This was successfully repaired with a high quality cyano adhesive (superglue).
4. The lock seemed to be working fine (dismantled, manually operated and visually inspected it) so I stripped out the loom and found the main +12V feed to the mechanism (Pin 4 on body plug, Pin 1 on lock plug) to be connected by only one strand. The earth wire (Pins 1 and 2 respectively) was in similar condition. Probably the voltage drop/high resistance over the two bad cables meant the lock motor was drawing some current (hence the sound) but not sufficient to activate.
5. As all the cables in the harness would be work-hardened and brittle I took the decision to replace with a new one rather than repair. The new one sorted the problem.
6. I was disappointed by the quality of the new (genuine) loom - £42. Cables were hard and stiff and some of the body cable fixtures were out of position making fitting poor. Any loom subjected to repeated movement should be made from small cross-section multistrand - say 0.08mm x 60 - and preferably in a silicone sheath. Incidentally, I had these exact same problems on a 2007 Citroen C4 I owned where all door hinge looms and tailgate were failing for the same reason. If I still have my Volvo in 5 years time (otherwise very happy with it, so hopefully will) I will be expecting to have to replace the loom again when the inevitable happens.
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